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-   -   dump valve on a 2003 wrx (https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/753562-dump-valve-on-a-2003-wrx.html)

adammyatt 16 March 2009 11:55 PM

dump valve on a 2003 wrx
 
hi ive just got a 2003 wrx and was wondering what is the best dump valve to fit or is it best left standard thanks :thumb:

joz8968 17 March 2009 12:01 AM

Leave it - OEM is all metal (I think) and works perfectly with the ECU/sensors etc... Subaru would have tested it in development, etc.

uk300scoob 17 March 2009 01:15 AM

cant go wrong with an hks ssqv works fine and iv had no problems or issues with it and its very loud

shiftyoldscoob 17 March 2009 02:33 AM

Mines a 94 plate so cant speak for your 03 but i'v had no problems with my forge dump valve....and it's PROPER loud!..got a nice chater to it

tomdscooby 18 March 2009 11:32 PM

leave it standard mate.your engine is supposed to use that air that vta dump valves release.

RS_Matt 19 March 2009 01:35 AM

Mine is an adjustable GFB VTA and the car seems faster when it's set to full VTA. Think Rally/production cars would still have them on if not for noise rules/laws?

girl-in-a-scoob 19 March 2009 09:17 AM

MY04 wrx - had a forge on and now a bailey and have had no problems. The Hks ssqv thingy, mate has one and its like a high pitched whistle :nono: whereas the forge and the bailey Ive had are more of a whoosh

bugeye02 21 March 2009 10:42 PM

hi, whats the best dump valve for my 02 bugeye, im looking for a nice sound as well as performance, a loud tish sound would be greatr cheers

corradoboy 21 March 2009 11:06 PM

The best for reliability and smooth running is the OE recirc item.

The best for silly noises, jerky running, removing large amounts of money from your wallet, NO extra performance WHATSOEVER, and potential failures is any aftermarket VTA item.

Many people comment that a VTA makes the car feel faster. There are a couple of reasons for this. On lift off the sudden brick wall of deceleration makes the driving experience more aggressive which is often mis-perceived as faster, coupled with a ridiculous 'bus doors / lorry brakes' noise making it feel exciting :rolleyes: In truth, it might well be slower as the car is unsettled more during each gear change.

A waste of money IMHO, unless other mods take the boost level to a point where the plastic diaphragm in the OE item might fail.

bugeye02 21 March 2009 11:13 PM

thanks a great deal corradoboy, very interesting indeed, its true, no point wasting money on a sound but no performance. also just another point what do you reakon on lowering a bugeye 02, and whats the lowested to drop it , cheers

corradoboy 21 March 2009 11:22 PM

Depends why you're lowering ! If it's cosmetic, then whatever floats your boat. For handling/performance then you're looking for a compromise between enough suspension travel to avoid rubbing and bottoming out, and a reduction in roll and lowering of the COG to improve cornering. Stiffer ARB's are always going to improve handling more than springs, along with other alignment products designed to improve/retain tire to surface alignment, and thus increase grip. Personally, I think 20mm is fine, 30 as a maximum. A set of Eibach or Prodrive springs will sort this OK, but a good set of adjustable coilovers will allow fine tuning of not only the ride height, but also damping, and maybe even bump and rebound.

A good starter set-up would be Eibach's, 22mm front ARB, 24mm rear, solid links and a good geo set-up to capitalize on it. Beyond that consider Apex BC's, AST's or Tein coilovers, still with the bars and other stuff.

maydew 21 March 2009 11:24 PM

get a turbosmart dual port or super sonic dump valve and you wont have any problems unlike most claim,the cheaper ebay type dump valves tend to leak under boost but the turbo smart have a very strong spring,lower the car on either eibach or prodrive springs, or bc coilovers

bugeye02 21 March 2009 11:39 PM

thanks for the excellent advice, sorry im really doinf all this for looks (cosmetic appreance) - but as ive just read your thread, will consider the other points, do you know abut hid:s also, as i really have had enought of these normal lights , as i know hid's are much better for the road etc - cheers

corradoboy 21 March 2009 11:50 PM

Aftermarket HID's are a legal grey area. According to construction and use regs HID units need to be self-levelling, have a washer jet and the headlight has to be of the correct design for their use. The units which simply replace OE halogen bulbs are thus illegal and could fail MOT's and roadside checks. They may indeed be brighter, leading you to believe they are safer, but consider that whilst you are enjoying the well lit road ahead, oncoming traffic are often dazzled by badly fitted conversions, and they may end up crashing into you, so the safety bit could be a no-go too. I think Philips Extreme +80% and Osram Nightbreaker +90% bulbs are a good and legal, and very cheap remedy to OE poor lights. Philips are rumored to be more reliable, and even though they are quoted 10% lower than the Osram, better focus means they perform better.

bugeye02 21 March 2009 11:54 PM

correct, i nearly was blinded by some idiot the other day, these hid's sold for under £100 are basically life threatening, unless proffesionally fitted, and proffesional bulbs too. thanx again


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