Neutral position switch issue on Bugeye
Hi guys
Car went in today for a remap and a few other bits. Got a phone call saying car isn't ready we need to fit a new neutral position switch. So picking it up tomorrow Apparantly it was effecting the dynorun it was on and the map? No nothing about neutral position switch's so thought i'd seek advice here. I have read somewhere that the Bugeye's ecu's were a pain in the ass and throw fault codes up when you start upping the power. Could it just be that? |
I had issues with swapping ECU's in my car when I was OS mapping it, if the NPS is faulty it could affect AVCS, not sure the bugeye had AVCS though.?
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Had an issue with my switch during mapping. Could plainly see the car was showing as being in nuetral when accelerating hard. Stops the avs working if you have an sti. This is quite common and often shows up when mapping.
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Originally Posted by Turbotits
(Post 8556582)
Had an issue with my switch during mapping. Could plainly see the car was showing as being in nuetral when accelerating hard. Stops the avs working if you have an sti. This is quite common and often shows up when mapping.
Any other light you could shed would be great :thumb: |
Mine played up back in 2007, but last week it was fine !
dunx |
Originally Posted by Bockett
(Post 8557641)
Exactly the issue they had. Cheers for the replies guys. Turbotits is the solution a new NPS then? Or will a new one do the same thing when its mapped. They said it was showing in neutral when the tried the map.
Any other light you could shed would be great :thumb: a replacemennt switched cured the problem |
Originally Posted by Turbotits
(Post 8557929)
a replacemennt switched cured the problem
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Cheers Guys. It's getting replaced today so fingers crossed the problem's sorted
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What exactly is the point of this thing called Neutral Position Switch. I had one replaced about three years ago when I had a CEL - came on flashing and then off after more vigorous acceleration through gears (but not flat out/highest rev range) - then when light came on permanent I went in to get the code checked and they diagnosed the NPS. Cost me about #70 inc. fitting (Bugeye 2001 model).
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Tells the ecu you are in neutral....
Pst ( don't tell anyone, but after a few seconds of revving, the ecu cuts the boost so you can pass a noise test more easily....) LOL dunx |
How much was the NPS in the end & did you get it from Subaru? Also any ideas on labour cost to fit?
I know the fault will show up on a Delta Dash plugged in while driving but is there another way I can tell if mine is definetley faulty. E.g will it always throw up a fault code in the CEL & can I check this fault code myself? |
My only input is that on a standard-ish car it will fell down on power but very smooth, unlike the usual AVCS "kick" as the revs build.
HTH dunx |
i recently changed mine it was causing the engine light to cum on bringing up missfire codes...apparently its used to tell the managment system if its in gear, somthing to do wiv the boost....
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it was £36 OE n peice of piss to fit... sits on the passenger side of the box roughly where the gear stick is...
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Thanks Auto Sparky, Im gona ring subaru tmrw & order one, hopefully same for my JDM Spec C?
I might pm you about fitting help later mate. |
£120 from Subaru :freak3: !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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robbery!!! heres the part number, make sure they ent tryin 2 sell u a gearbox lol...
32008aa103 |
Right after giving them your part no, they realised that there must be more than one & so this time I gave them my Chasis no. They emailed the factory with it & they got back to them with correct part no & price of £46 plus VAT.
Will get it ordered this month. Auto Sparky I dont suppose there's any chance you could jot down a rough guide to doing it, Im assuming i can do it myself? Iv read somewhere that you have to take the transmission housing off or something to get access? |
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all u do mate is jack the old girl up, remove the plastic under tray lay under n ul c it sittin there,theres 2 sensors there, 1 has a white plug the other has a black plug, its the black 1 u want :Dthink ul need 19mm spanner if i remember rightly :D
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is there any chance of any fluid losses while doing this ?
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no fluid loss but it's not a 5 min job on a 6 speed, it is on a 5 but the 6 is a bit more difficult to get at
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Wasting your money buying a new one..... you can file down the original one, to ensure the plastic plunger switch is protruding more.
Takes about 20mins all in. |
like he said no oil loss, sits high on the box, n for the sake of £40....u may aswell do it proply....
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What do you mean.... you might as well do it properly?? If doing it properly, means spending money on something you can remedy yourself, then tuck in sir! The fact of the matter is, is that you don't need to buy a new one. Doing it properly would be to fit a switch head that is not made of poxy plastic, so it never happened in the first place.
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Great post guys, same problem here. Will be trying the filing before spending the cash and let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the pic rickya, worth a thousand words like the old saying goes ;) |
A better fix would be just to join the wires together lol. It'll think it's in gear all the time then. Shouldn't cause any issues.
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If anyone needs a new NPS
http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts_in...en=&searchKey= OEM and very quick delivery :thumb: |
That would be a quick fix to see if the error code clears, (reminds me of those sidestand switches they fit to bikes) then i'll get it sorted if solves the problem as must be there for a reason. Good input though, cheers
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Originally Posted by Norman Dog
(Post 10642970)
If anyone needs a new NPS
http://importcarparts.co.uk/parts_in...en=&searchKey= OEM and very quick delivery :thumb: |
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