Brake pad question - safe to drive if only one side done?
Been trying to do my brake pads today - should be a simple task but I had an absolute nightmare.
Snapped my extension bar on my socket set trying to loosen the top bolt off the near side front caliper; went to Halfords, got another. Finished my near side pads, all sorted, started the off side - and then managed to break my ratchet I can't be too upset as the set was over 10 years old but it's still annoying. And Halfords shut by this point. Grrrrr. The off side top bolt is so bloody tight I can't shift it; tried an adjustable spanner, plenty of WD40 etc - no luck. Think I may need to get a garage with a compressor and associated air tools to get it off. So the question is - exactly how dodge is it for me to drive the car for a day or two with only one set of pads changed and the others old? It'll prob. take a few days for me to get time to get the wheel off again and sort it out. What do you think guys? |
spanner & hammer, should resolve this issue,or two combi spanners locked together should shift it, or if you want to take it to a garage it will be fine for a day or two's driving
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I would drive it, just bear in mind there may be a slight pull to one side so drive accordingly.
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Dumb question why do you need to remove the callipers to change the pads.... ?
Honestly, or do you mean discs and pads :cool: dunx |
Originally Posted by dunx
(Post 8546918)
Dumb question why do you need to remove the callipers to change the pads.... ?
Honestly, or do you mean discs and pads :cool: dunx I was thinking the same... :wonder: |
Don't some of the classics have single pot slidey calipers? You have to almost take the caliper off to change the pads with them.
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If you had to ask the question I would say don’t drive it as you don’t understand what it will do.
It will pull to one side (side you didnt change) a fair bit and seriously if you brake hard. Doesn't your car have the 4 pots on :wonder: |
Please don't take this the wrong way, but judging from your post, I would suggest you leave brakes to people who know what they are doing.
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Just get a proper spanner pronto - adjustables are sh*te as they often open up under brute force: so obviously you will end up being afraid to use all of your strength on it incase it slips, and you destroy your hand. Lol
I'm a steel erector, so tighten hundreds of bolts every day, and learned not to use an adjustable very early on! |
Will pull to the side you have not changed,get the other side done asap:thumb:
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Originally Posted by s70rjw
(Post 8547608)
Please don't take this the wrong way, but judging from your post, I would suggest you leave brakes to people who know what they are doing.
I know u change em by removing the two clips and pins. However I am a thorough chap so I also wanted to remove the caliper and give it a good scrub with a wire brush to remove any accumulated crap. I gave up Sunday eve trying to undo that top bolt; just went out and swapped the pads in 30 minutes yesterday morning! Thanks to all re the advice with getting the bolt off - was after that just as much. Cheers all :thumb: |
LOL !
So long as you are safe ! dunx |
Yeah mate - I appreciate that everyone has to start somewhere; we're all novices when we begin, but just to say "leave it alone" can be a little discouraging - anyone with a little mechanical know how can do brakes IMHO.
I started off attempting the old rotate the caliper up trick which I used on my last two cars before I (durrr!) realised the setup on the Scoob is a bit different. Not hard though - changing the pads takes like 20 minutes - like I said, I just like to be thorough and give everything a good clean. Been out and got myself a heavy duty breaker bar from Halfords this afternoon - now I'm prepared for the next stiff bolt lol. I've switched from Ferodo DS2500's to EBC Yellow Stuff and even though I'm only running em in, they seem better at slower speeds. Don't know what other people are running? |
Originally Posted by stuart2008sti
(Post 8547669)
Will pull to the side you have not changed,get the other side done asap:thumb:
The side that has been changed will have loads more "meat" on the pads, so will bite the disks much earlier tha the other side. Good on you for sorting it our Bugeye Scoob. There are a lot of people on forums that are afraid to get their hands dirty, so you'll always get conflicting advice. On the plus side, Halfords tools have a lifetime warranty and you can exchange them when they break. |
com on fella do your fronts 1st then the rears. Its not a good idea to drive with one side done I wouldnt !!!!!
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Originally Posted by joey_turbo
(Post 8550787)
I think it would be the other way.
The side that has been changed will have loads more "meat" on the pads, so will bite the disks much earlier tha the other side. Good on you for sorting it our Bugeye Scoob. There are a lot of people on forums that are afraid to get their hands dirty, so you'll always get conflicting advice. The meat means nothing if it hasn’t been bedded in properly. Have you used a car with new pads in? The brakes are crap at first. I am all for doing the car yourself if you have the ability but if you don’t understand what will happen with one side new one side old especially on the front you should leave them alone. |
Yes but what I'm saying is, if the side not changed was only 5mm thick, and the new pads are say 12mm, the thicker pad have less travel to the discs.
I've just confused myself. Ignore me :lol1: |
Originally Posted by joey_turbo
(Post 8551139)
Yes but what I'm saying is, if the side not changed was only 5mm thick, and the new pads are say 12mm, the thicker pad have less travel to the discs.
I've just confused myself. Ignore me :lol1: |
Originally Posted by ian.b
(Post 8550960)
com on fella do your fronts 1st then the rears. Its not a good idea to drive with one side done I wouldnt !!!!!
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