how reliable is this scoob? and what offer?
 

ok my friend has a scooob, its on an R reg but is a version 6 (checked back of seat belt for 1999) and its got dual air bag.

anyway imported last year into the country , he;s first owner. completely standard bar a 3 inch turbo bak exhaust system.

center compartment lid is broken in that it doesnt comeup you got to pull it up once you pressed button

its stil in kilometers and has 84km on the clock

it has a boosting problem where its as if your letting off teh accelerator and then pressing it again

and the clutch slips top end, although a new clutch is included nt fitted.

its also bneen running on only v power however it is stil japmapped so i assume it shudnt have been as thats 100..

so will need a remap..has a hqs ssqv and lol its a wagon!

he's planning on selling soon and whats 4k.

you think an offer of 3k for it is silly? is it worth it or less? if the engine could go any sec? how do you know if the engine has been damaged from regular use of wrong fuuel? o and i know he rarely lets the engine warm up before blasting, usually when the water levvel is halfway (stupid i know).

also i know he thrashes the car a lot, full revs etc.. so how does that play with a clutch that slips at top end i dont know, damaged fluwheel? or noot? am i just bbeing too paranoid?

also never been serviced etc. since in the country, just oil and filter at purchase.. that again with cheap stuff so whats your opinions?

p.s. it is white and is a proper sti with lightweight parts etc.. o and no radio though

If its on an R plate it is either a 3 or a 4, seatbelts can be changed ;) if its a 6 then it will be a phase 2 engine, crystal headlights and later interior.

The pulsating boosting is down to the 3 inch straight through exhaust, sounds like the car is overboosting, it either needs to have a manual boost controller on there or remapping (on v5 or 6 cars) if not it could be causing engine damage :(

Pictures would be nice ;) but it sounds older than he is making it out to be and possably a previous crash damaged vehicle...

Tony:)

Could it be a dodgy Coil pack?? As these are prone also...

Bearings could be close to going and this will mean a big bill, although a few DIY it....as the bearings are a approx total of £180 dependent on distributor.

I actually came accross people on a recent meet that had spent £3k alone on a engine rebuild and nothing forged or replaced besides gaskets..

It's pot luck to be honest and do you feel lucky? :norty:

bump

lol yeah it has the later interior and version 6 outside too

but i heard a version 6 would need you to press clutch to start is this true?

if not it'll be a late version 5..

im thinking worse case scenario if it is a version 6 wagon.. 3k for car.. plus what 3k engine rebuild?

didnt think of other little stuff that could be wrong..

i think i'll let it pass

I would leave it alone, there are good examples to be had if you shop around, the clutch thing, don't know where that came from, the only thing that stops moving is the input shaft to the gearbox, when the pedel is pressed.

On version six models the clutch needs to be pressed for the car to crank. Otherwise it doesn't crank, a bit like an immobiliser if you like.

dont even consider
 

personally from past experience with subarus i wouldnt even consider it especially now as the market is sooo low there are plenty of well looked after ones around and with good service history as for thrashing it around...speaks for its self with anything mechanical if you use it hard its going to need lots of looking after and new parts common sence. also there are lots of not looked after ones out there if you dont know alot about them ask someone who does to go with you or pay for a really good check over before you buy ...use common sence shop wisely get plenty of advice and you will get a subaru that driven properly will serve you well ....good luck :thumb:

eggy, if still considering...

On passenger suspension turret is the VIN metal plate... "Applied model" code... 7-digit code to the right of this...

"GC8A..." MY93 (Nov 92 - Sep 93) "Version"
"GC8B..." MY94 (Oct 93 - Sep 94) "Version"
"GC8C..." MY95 (Oct 94 - Aug 95) "Version"
"GC8C..." MY96 (Aug 95 - Aug 96) "Version II"
"GC8D..." MY97 (Sep 96 - Aug 97) "Version III"
"GC8E..." MY98 (Sep 97 - Aug 98) "Version IV"
"GC8F..." MY99 (Sep 98 - Aug 99) "Version V"
"GC8G..." MY00 (Sep 99 - Aug 00) "Version VI"

Check date first manufactured (not registered in the UK date, obviously) on V5 logbook, then cross reference with the dates in brackets to determine correct MY/version, which is the 4th characeter of the code i.e. the letter A to G in bold above...

i dont get how anyone can give advice on a car they aint seen??
it is true the market iss on its ar5e so you can prob buy a one working for that sort of money as for jap fuel v power is 99ron so if thats all its been run on wont bother it at all no need to remap imo.

plus if you know he thrashes it why even consider it?

im letting it pass guys..

and the reason i considered it was i fort it could be a cheap version 6 even if the engine went, but as advised on here could be other problems..

bump

this car has been parked up since i posted back in december and just driven once a week to stop bttery from dying, hes gone completely off fast cars, so driven off boost.

2k and its mine! just saw him and he was soo anti performance cars, needs 5k for another house and will giv me this for 2k..would you consider it?

pics..

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6924/dsc5887ya1.jpg
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/d...jpg/1/w640.png

http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/9706/dsc5894ib5.jpg
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/dsc...jpg/1/w640.png

comes with 3 sets of alloys.. black 17s.. and the 2 sets i posted in the for sale section.. (16ich white twinspoke and standard wheels) + new clutch + alarm

o and its stil jap restricted and now has a p1 lip fitted.

Done only 1200miles since in uk, or 1200km as its stil in km so so less, and hasnt bin serviced tho. And its a version 5, chekd strut.

any views on this? still a no no? suppose i just need to be patient , im just dying to be back in subaru ownership! and seeing scoobys just makes me want :(

745 miles in UK :)

Does it go, stop, get all gears, performance as expected, no wierd/unusual/nasty noises, etc.? If so, then get it. Nice looking motor.

It has STi badges on the flanks :norty: - post up the 7-digit 'Applied model' code...

o its also got spats on it now aswell

yeah drives spot on! lol hes a good mate, and ive been in the car practically all the time its been on the road, the only problem is that overboosting in third 4th and 5th where its as if your letting go of the accelerator..and the clutch recently slipping top end..

but as i recall when it came into the country.. it had too much oil in it making it stall or something.. thats when he did the oil and filter change and thats it.. been fine since, but it was overboosting with standard exhaust system too.. or boost surge rather..

when he fitted the turbo back exhaust system.. it actually lessened the surge feeling..

anyway he wasnt bothered as it was still fast, dusted an e46 m3 etc.. we then took it to Richard Henry Motorsport who drove the car and said it was mega fast and defo above standard power but he never got any overboost or boost surge :s so my mate just left it after that, but it is definately letting go in third 4th and 5th and then power coming back on

im just thinking ive got bits from my car.. such as xenon kit, 3 port boost solinoid.. sti-8 IC , and sti-7 scoop plus RCM team ice exhaust system..o and a standard grill.. as i dont like the front end

but i dunno.. im just thinking

2k for car
Cam Belt - altho ill check jap history as im prettu sure its done.
Modded Oil Pump
Check tensioner
front crank seal
get cam seals checked
oil and filter change
air filter
spark plugs
transmission and diff oil
brake fluid change
contact JGM and get map to vpower/mods

whats that ? say another 1.2k on top?.. so roughly 3.5k car?

i know its always cooled down via turbo timer..
but when cold he drives off boost until he gets some good heat from heaters and/or water needle goes half.. (its just his habit doesnt listen when i tell him)

not sure whether to risk it...or to just stop being a girl and wait for a V5 type r that i always wanted

o lol one other thing it has dirty christmas lights neons underneath lol that flash (switch is near passenger seat so all your dickhead mates stick them on without you knowing) must remove that if i buy it! some japs have bad taste.

Well that puts a whole new spin on it! :Suspiciou Gotta get the Type R! :cuckoo: :lol1:

Wait for the type r mate, there in a diffrent league.

i think your right, just hold out for the type r

are version 4 type r's much different to the version 5?

Gotta go with your heart... If you were to get the Wagon you'll only hanker after the Type R later :brickwall...


Aside from a few exterior cosmetics i.e. rear spoiler/grille/front bumper, then no.

v.4 MY98 got the facelift interior and the latest MASTER engine (Mature Advanced Sporty Torquey Economical Reliable :lol1:... v.3>on got the new engine too).

v.4 DOESN'T, however, have on-board ECUTEK mappability of v.5/6!... Could be the decider...

(Get the v.5 though, IMHO ;) :thumb:)

version 5's :thumb:

joz your so true! gotta go with the heart , its like when i got the wrx lol i said i should have got an sti.. so i bought an sti wagon then i sed i should have gopt the saloon and now i had the saloon and sold that i want a type r! or ra!

if i dont ill still be saying i want one :(

preferably type r over ra though, as i want some luxurys :P