Does a STi engine fit straight into a uk 2000 turbo??
 

Uk turbo is a MY99, if i can what year STi engine do i need?

HELP!!! PLEASE!!!!!!:(

Does anyone know the answer?????????????

STI engine is a 1994cc flat 4 config, MY99 uk turbo is a 1994cc flat 4 config.
Got a feeling that it may fit ;) but you need a phase 2 engine from a MY99/00 car.
Now as that sounds easy, its not, the engine will fit you you also need the ecu off a v5/v6/p1, plus I think you also need a new wiring loom for the car.
Sounds easy enough..... hmmmmm

Tony:)

That sounds like alot of hassle.
My big ends gone and i think i might go for a forged re-build. Ive got a vf28(p1) turbo already, then go for an Andy F re-map? What you think?

Anyone????:freak3:

surly a v5/6 sti engine will bolt right in?

id like to know for sure before spending £1000's

Most engines should fit. The thing to watch out for is that it uses the same style of coil/plug leads as you have. Then you swap over the manifold from your current engine if the new engine has a different type. All the wiring to the engine comes off the manifold so if you transplant your manifold, you're assured wiring will be fine.

If you get a 99-00 sti engine then it will fit straight in and you can use the same loom that you have and ecu. I did the exact same thing a few years ago, and it ran fine.

spot on .i have the same car as you mate myuk99 and i have a sti engine for it , there is alot of confusion as to what fit's on my search this is what i found , phase 1 (individual coilpacks) ,phase 1.5 (coil pack in center),phase 2 (coil pack of center ).
so phase 1 and 1.5 can be will be a straight swap all thought the 1.5 coil packs are a little baggy in the phase 1 hole's . i don't think a phase 2 will drop in tbh not to sure as to why !!! , but what i ended up doing it getting a sti ra ver 2 so makes it a phase 1 mine being a phase 1.5 same as your's i all i needed to do is swap my inlet manifold over mate .
your ecu ,turbo etc etc will bolt straight on it but you will need a remap , new ecu to get the best out of it might aswell whilst your doing it lol .

as above, it's just a case of swapping a few bits if necessary.

I dropped a 96RA engine into a 98 WRX so it was Phase 1 into a Phase 1.5 car. The coil pack and leads were kept but everything else was interchangable between engines and wiring looms, i think i just had to extend a wire in the loom as a sensor was slightly further away in the block, but nothing massive.

M.

If Andy is going to be mapping it, ask him. :thumb:

Ive done whats been said above, Sti 8 sub assembly and my wrx heads.

all id so is ask yourself what exactly did iffernt phsically between a uk engine and an sti engine apart from the red manifold...nothing

i think the only thing you have to watch is that some have vvti hea's etc etc but i think thats the newer sti's i avoided these baeaciuse of that .

Suppose forged parts don't help or make any difference?
I also believe the crank is different.

2004 STi engine on its way

isnt that a vvti ? wont you have to change the heads over ? what ecu are you going to be running it with ? you upgrading anything els turbo etc etc ?

any short engine will fit, and by that i mean just the block assembly, if you use your heads and all other components from your existing engine then you will be fine

are these on the outside of the engine and do they make a difference to the way the engine fits into the bay?

no, i didnt think so

:lol:

True, but your first post wasn't clear that is what you meant until you quantified it now to be fair!

Simon

I dont know , my mates fitting it. Ive got a VF28 turbo

The supposed 2004 engine fell through as the guy that had it was full of sh*t. I just bought an STi bottom end today off a guy who knows what he's talking about. It has just been rebuilt so is fresh, going to put my heads etc on it then run it in.
How many miles do i have to do to run it in and how often do i need to change the oil?
Cheers

I would do 500 miles at 3k max, use a cheap mineral oil for this period, don't labour the engine at 3k revs either, vary it as much as possible.
After 500miles i'd do another 1000 with an oil change for some better oil, a semi synthetic will be ok, use a rev ceiling of 4k this time though but the same applies, do not labour the engine for any length of time at the same revs.
I would then do another oil change and use the oil that your engine is going to be run on, Shell Helix etc. Job done.

Does it matter if I use a good oil from the start?

Not much help 490 views , no opinion?????:wonder: :Suspiciou

The idea is that you use a mineral oil at first as that facilitates the bedding in process. You then move to fully synth when the components have all bedded in nicely. Most people suggest 1k miles of running in with sub 4k on the rev counter for this period and subjecting the car to as diverse driving conditions as possible: varying revs, load on the engine etc... i.e. don't just drive it on the motorway.

You could do a lot worse than speak to David at Api

FYI the "real" fully synthetics are the ester based oils such as Silkolene Pro S. You won't find them in Halfords etc... These kind of oils are what the specialists most often recommend. Bit more pricey, but then you should always fill a performance car with the best fuel and oil that you can! It has a hard life after all!

Hope that helps.

Ns04

Thanx:thumb: