95 import wrx value for money mods?
 

hi, got a import 95 wrx standard, apart from a 3inch exhaust, and sports cat, and strut brace, engine wise it is standard

whats mods are gona be best value for money to increase bhp?

are there any mods i could do to instantly increase bhp without a remap, or will i only see a increase once i get a remap.

how much is remap 500-600?

would a fmic or around £200 increase bhp, or again only after a remap?

ta

remap is the best/safest way of getting more power (as long as it's done properly)

Have a look here for options on ecus www.jollygreenmonster.co.uk.

It all depends on what power you want and how much you do have to spend.
Perhaps first it would be wise to get the car checked on a rolling road (approx £50) to see if its running ok now before spending money on it.

As you can't remap the ecu on the 95 year,you'd need to change it,or like me get the ESL live fitted/mapped. It made a huge difference with the later map sensor,with your state of tune should be looking at 280bhp or so. It costs £550 for the ecu,£70 for the map sensor all plus vat.

I would personally do the brakes next, the 2 pot set up are about as useful as tits on a fish, so look there before doing anything else, no good having power if you cant stop :eek:

Tony:)

I also have a 95 WRX and also don't want to get a mappable ECU just yet........ £££

I am toying with the idea of increasing the boost by way of opening the restrictor / installing a variable restictor to decrease the wastegate opening and therefore increase boost pressure. A boost pressure gauge is a must for this as too much boost will a problem.

My only worry is that the fuelling may not adjust accordingly to the higher boost pressure.

Rob

Raising the boost slightly (no more than 1.1 bar) will be ok on a good running car. Going too far and the fueling will be out and the car running lean, which I'm sure you know is very bad for prolonged periods.

The modifications to the exhaust and perhaps a decent panel filter will be about the limit before a remap is required. Other mods like fmic etc will be required if/when you decide to go for bigger power. There are mixed views on whether or not you need to remap when fitting these.

Ported standard exhaust manifolds (headers) will release some torque.

Fitting an STI intercooler with the better flowing Y pipe should help with breathabillity of the engine.

You could start gathering kit such as an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors, so that when it comes to remap time, these items can be fitted and the car mapped to suit. All of this should result in a healthy power increase.

Having a remap with your current mods will still release a nice a chunk of power and possibly drive much better. I've gone for small mods to start with and attempting to gather kit ready for when I've got a bag of sand handy for an ecu and remap:)

Hi,

The following info might be useful :-

The std target boost pressure for 95 WRX:-

Saloon - WRX Sept 1994 - 1996 : 12.7psi (.87 bar)
Wagon - WRX Wagon 1993 - 1996 : 10.8psi (.75 bar)

I have a wagon which is probably mapped fuel wise for this pressure.

Nuttynick, do you think we're ok to 14/15 psi (1 bar) without det issues?

Rob

Please don't take this the wrong way but £600+ for 20bhp ,imo, is not good value for money.
You may as well just spend £25 on a Dawes Device raise the boost to 1bar

Upgrade your brakes at the same time you're repairing the hedge / lamp post....

I raised my boost using a Scoobychip which may alter the fueling very slightly. As stated in another post though, the Dawes device raises boost without adjusting fueling. There are many people on here running similar set ups without issue. The trick is not to get greedy. Decent fuel (V power or Tesco 99) will certainly help out.

Remaps are expensive which is why I prefer to use simple mods first that don't necessarily need it. Gains are made but really not to their full potential. Gathering other stuff that can be fitted on the day but won't allow the car to run properly until remapped (injectors for instance) means you get more value for money out of the remap and you don't need to repeat the process.

No offence taken:thumb:
It just depends what your after,the esl with the map sensor will let you run 1.35bar no problems,and will probably be safer with correct fueling,boosting,proper saftey monitoring etc than a daws runnng 1.1bar,with potentil det/knock,and a £2500 rebuild bill,which will right the car off. It also caters for the future.
Now i know many people have run daws/chips with no issues,including myself,as before the ESL i was running the polar performance chip.But the difference of a proper map is night and day,much more pull and power curv is soooo smooth!

Hi Style

Started the same way on my MY96. Agreed that since you already got the 3" zorst a programable ECU is probably the next best route to go. Will also support future mods. But then what are your plans for the car? Are you a top-end man or do you prefer the twisties? Brakes are a must either way. Those little 2 pots are just not adequate even with a stock standard car of driven enthusiastically.

Then if you're into the twisties and track days etc., there is a lot more of fun to get out of your car by looking into its handling. I went this route and uprated brake callipers, then to whiteline adjustable swaybars, Tein struts and eventually coil-overs. I wanted to harness the power I had properly before looking at ways on how to make more.

If your 3" zorst doesn't include a bellmouth or twin-dump down-pipe, then that could be a fairly cost effective easy mod to do now. Won't give much more power with your setup but will improve responsiveness of turbo spool, especially between gear shifts.

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers
Neville

Totally agree if you want to 'future proof' the modability (not sure if that's a real word :lol1: ) then a remap is the only way.

cool, think geting a reprogrammable ecu will be the answer.

are they like a hard drive and can be re-written and programmed over and over again?

so can i look to go down the second hand route ?

Mark off here has a scoobyecu are these ok? could i get it, then get a guy to fit / map it to my car?

The ESL is the cheapest option,and i've never seen one second hand. The apexi power fc is the next up the cost ladder,but fetch £400 second hand,plus £300 or so mapping costs,so ESL at £550+vat still cheaper. It also keeps the knock control and diagnostics,and you won't need a boost controller.
Yes the are re mappable,so as you improve the mods,you can map it to suit.

Mit

The scoobyecu i have for sale is fitted to a 93 wrx ecu you just have to unplug your ecu and plug mine in it was one of the first made i bought it off David Wallis who used to do them with scott t should take car to around 290bhp with other mods eg ported headers, filter, decat exhaust . The scoobyecu cant be plugged into and the map changed , you would have to copy map off chips and then alter programme for different injectors or what every you were changing it can be altered but more involved.

Mark

If your after a mappable ecu it has to be a simtek, apexi seem to be pulling out of the ecu market for some odd reason.

The simtek is a better ecu,which is ok if you don't mind spending near on a £1000,which is overkill if your not going very far with the tuning.

They've had quality issues with the new pcbs allegedley.

More £850 mark but granted the apexi/esl is cheaper but if you wish to run different boost maps or want other features it's invaluable, plus you lose the maf which i think is a godsend.

Pcb's faulty, how odd, though what i do find strange is various tuners saying things like oh it'll have a new on screen display oh and a dial to change between 8 different maps yet not once have i seen anything added bar the defacto anti lag and launch control additions.