Originally Posted by peter.p&j
(Post 10983701)
my scoob has a slight piston slap what oil viscosity is best
1997 wrx classic import cheers If it's standard or pretty close to, a 10w-40 is ideal http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx The best ones are the Gulf Competition, Motul 300V, Redline and Millers CFS. As a cheaper alternative the Fuchs XTR, Shell HX7, Motul 6100 and Millers XSS are good choices. Cheers Tim |
Originally Posted by SCOOBYTRIS
(Post 10983732)
Hi Tim
Thanks for reply also . The engine runs very smoothly and sounds pretty quite for a classic on tick over . I will fix gasket leak and run it with the 5 w 40 shell helix ultra and see how I get on would be a shame to drop it and waste it after only such a short time . I also have a classic 1995 wrx v2 which has done more miles and will be due a service soon I take it the 10w 40 will be better for that one maybe also ?or is there any suited for higher mileage engine it has just done over 100k miles ? My other one the Sti 555 v2 has under 60k miles which is pretty low for year . This oil thing is a real science and takes a bit to grasp . I know synthetic was not around when my cars were made but has better qualities generally I just want to keep my babies in good health and use them both responsibly but need to know they are covered as best as possb Thanks Tris If the oil has only been in for a little bit, drop it out, change the gasket, then put the oil back in. With the 100k car, I'd say go for a 5w-40 unless there is piston slap or oil leaks. If there is, go for a 10w-40 instead. Synthetics have been around a lot longer than Imprezas (mid 70s), but were not as commonly used as they are now due to peoples attitudes and the price of the oils (a guy I spoke to last year said he was buying one of the first Castrol synthetics in the 80s for about £30-40 a litre back then). Where you have a fairly small engine pushing out a lot of power, a synthetic is the best option as they will stand up better to the harder use. Okay, you can use a semi, but it isn't going to protect as well and while you might save a few quid at servicing time, it can cost a lot a little way down the line. Cheers Tim |
Hi Oilman,
I have a 2000 P1 with 40,000 miles on the clock and the following mods : Blitz Nurspec R exhaust New Age Maf – fitted and mapped by Bob Rawle RCM stage 2 fuel pump HKS stat HKS SSQ dump valve RCM induction system (housing new age maf sensor) RCM cooling panel Ninja sports cat, OE centre Mapped to approx 325/325 by Bob Rawle. Car has been serviced and looked after meticulously by the previous owners with OCD levels of care so I want to keep up this trend if I can! Used as a 2nd car for fun mostly so gets driven hard on the back roads most of the time with the possibility of doing a few laps on a trackday next month, but I don't think any more than that! Just got it out of hibernation from the winter and planning some fresh oil for the spring. Previous owner swore by Mobil One 10W-50 but seems to be discontinued now and after reading your advice, it appears its between Fuchs Titan, Millers CFS and Gulf Competition. I am based in Norfolk so temps will hopefully be on the up from now until the summer. Seems to me that 15W-50 would be the best option but wanted to check thats right. Also, what is the difference between Fuchs Titan Race R and S? Is it just the red colour and one is 15 and the other 10? Any word on how good the Nanotech Millers is? Is it worth the extra money in your opinion? I guess I probably dont need something so advanced anyway. Your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated! Cheers. Regards, Andrew. |
Hi Andrew
A 10w-50 is ideal as it will give better cold start protection than the 15w-50 http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car. The only real difference between Pro R and Pro S is the viscosity. Cheers Tim |
Hi Tim
Very useful info in this thread but I have a few questions to ask myself. I work 2 miles away from home so most of my driving is short journeys where my oil hasn't got up to temp before switching off. I stay off boost there and back from work and at the weekends it gets an occasional blast. Car is a newage bug tuned to 300bhp and is a daily driver that will never see a track just fast road fun. Oil is changed approx every 3-4k and uses 10-40 semi. Any advice would be appreciated Martin |
Hi Martin
I would go for a 5w-40 to get the cold start protection. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives. Cheers Tim |
Originally Posted by oilman
(Post 11015889)
Hi Martin
I would go for a 5w-40 to get the cold start protection. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives. Cheers Tim Martin |
Hi Martin
Yes, it will be fine over the summer too. Cheers Tim |
Originally Posted by oilman
(Post 11015963)
Hi Martin
Yes, it will be fine over the summer too. Cheers Tim Martin |
Thanks Tim, will stick with the 10w-50 then. Now to decide which to go for....
One other thing, I've always bought OE oil filters from halfords for my other cars before, is there anything better you can get or is there no difference when it comes to oil filters? Cheers. |
These ones are good without being expensive
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6782-oil...r-2325900.aspx Cheers Tim |
Make - Subaru
Model - Impreza WRX Year - 2003 Blobeye Engine size/type - 2.0 turbo Mileage - 71k Any mods Remap Full Stainless decat system Induction System Type of use - Road (Easy driving with the odd blast every now and then hehe) What do you want a recommendation for? Engine, Gearbox etc? Can i have recommendation for all oils please |
Hi guys, Mr Oilman,
Need to change the oil in my gearbox and diff on 1999 2.0 turbo impreza, lightly modded, about 250bhp. Been searching the forums to determine the best oil choice, but getting a bit confused now! Most owners seem to swear by castrol syntrax so decided thats what I will be getting, but also seen threads saying that fully synthetic is not recommened as its to slippery. I see on the opie site that you do castrol universal 75/90 semi synthetic (formally syntrax), is this the oil that everyone raves on about and suitable for both my box and rear diff? Or You also do castrol syntrax longlife but this is a fully synthetic oil? Any advice appreciated, Lee |
Hi Lee
Yes, it's the Universal 75w-90 semi-synthetic that people recommend for the Impreza. The Syntrax Longlife is aimed at diff rather than gearbox use. Cheers Tim |
Thanks Tim,
The Universal 75w-90 semi-synthetic will be fine for my rear diff though? |
Hi
Yes, it will be fine for that too. Cheers Tim |
Hi oilman, I have a 04 blobeye sti running 420/400 with lots of mods all aps ie turbo,injectors,air filter,fuelling,bov,full system ect. Always put 15/50 Fuchs Titan race pro r in recommend by RCM.28k on clock and only doing 2/3k a year. Wat other oils would you recommend or would you stick to this. Ps the car has been modded for 6 years now and it's never missed a beat.
|
Hi
Is it mainly a road or track car? If on road, I'd go for a really good 10w-50 like Fuchs Pro S, Millers CFS or CFS NT. Otherwise, stick with the Pro R, it's top quality stuff. Cheers Tim |
2005 wrx
only mods are panel filter and back box mileage 116 500 whats the best oil and trans oil to cheers liam |
Hi Liam
I would use a 5w-40 synthetic in the engine. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives. You need a 75w-90 for the gearbox and diff*and here are the ones we have. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Redline 75w-90ns and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives. The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Redline 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Amsoil FGR are also good choices. Cheers Tim |
Originally Posted by oilman
(Post 11051770)
Hi Liam
I would use a 5w-40 synthetic in the engine. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives. You need a 75w-90 for the gearbox and diff*and here are the ones we have. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-...ion-fluid.aspx If you want to go for the best, the Millers CRX 75w-90 NT, Gulf Competition, Motul Gear 300, Redline 75w-90ns and Millers TRX are ideal for the gearbox. The Castrol Universal, Motul Motylgear and Fuchs Gear Syn are all decent alternatives. The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Redline 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Amsoil FGR are also good choices. Cheers Tim cheers for the reply |
Quick question I'm running millers CFS 10w40 currently and anytime I'm driving back traffic once oil is up to temp warm idle pressure drops sometimes to around 25 psi. Is that normal?
|
I've a classic '96WRX that oil pressure reading is pretty much the same as mine 25-26 psi on idle I've 10w40 semi-synthetic in mine....
|
Pressure will drop when an oil is warm, but 25psi shouldn't cause any problems.
Cheers Tim |
Hi Oilman,
Looking to do oil change on my scooby, details: Make and Model: Subaru Impreza 2004 WRX SL Saloon Mods: 255 Walbro pump, Turbo Back SS Exhaust, KnN Pannel filter, Remap to 294bhp Could you tell me which would be a good oil to use (Wkend Driver but a fair bit of use) and how much I will need? thanks :D |
Hi
I would use a 5w-40 synthetic and you will find those through the link below. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XFS, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives. 5L will do it. Cheers Tim |
legend mate, thanks very much
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I'm about to change the oil on my gearbox and all diffs and looking for a recommendation.
Make - Subaru Impreza Model - JDM WRX Version 2 (no DCCD) Year - 1995 Engine size/type - 2.0 Turbo Type of use (road/track) - Mostly weekend use with some fast road and some track use Was looking at the Motul Gear 300 75w-90 since it seems to work well on Imprezas but I am unsure, if it's a "one fits all" solution for all diffs and the gearbox. Your webpage also states a different oil for the front diff (80w-90). Is this correct? I'd really like the "one fits all" solution so that I don't run into problems when someone else is doing the job for me and might end up doing it wrong. As I have lost a lot of money with a clutch change that way, I'm trying to "dumb it down" as much as possible. Thanks :) |
Juergen
The autobox cars have a separate front diff and that is why they spec a front diff oil. Your car will have the front diff sharing the manual gearbox oil. Certain gearboxes prefer a GL4 oil as a GL5 can be too slippy for the synchro cones. In your case the oil you want to use is both a GL4 and GL5 so will be fine for both the gearbox and the rear diff as the GL4 spec will mean it is not to slippy for the manual gearbox. |
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