Camber bolts
 

I keep hearing 911 mentioning these, now i know what they do pretty much allowing a shock without adjustable top mounts to have a small amount of camber dialled in.

Now thing is ive looked at my teins and from what i can gather i have adjustable pillowball front and non adjustable pillow rear.

The car is going to have laser geometry done as no garage can get their tracking gear underneath as ive just fitted a perrin alk.

So am i right in thinking i get a set of these camber bolts, fit them to the top bolt of the rear shock, keeping it fairly neutral and drive her to said garage to be set up correctly.

Or am i talking a load of old twaddle :wonder:

Im sure 1.5neg f/r is the best for the scooby

CAMSKILL PRODUCTS Camber Adjustment Bolts - 14mm Impreza : £25.00 : Subaru Impreza Turbo Parts, Tuning, Spares & Accessories : Suspension - Misc -

There you go, just get a pair for the rear :thumb:

The cheap camber bolts allows the alignment place to get the 1.5 9or more) camber into the car. This can be done easy at the front with pillow ball top mounts, but it is unusual to heve such mounts on the rear coil-overs.

In the whole scheme of things the cost is low, but the benefits can be high.

Thr rear is the most beneficial location.

Thanks for the help folks, especially 911, your advice on the forum is what led me to choose 1.5neg camber front and rear despite gupa-p [protyre] having a few raised eyebrows and reservations, it took a bit of convincing to steer them away from subaru specs.

Car handles great now, much more composed, the downside being it is also stiffer everywhere, all i feel now is griiiiiiiiip.

The front already had 1.5 neg which would explain why my back end kicking out was such a scary experience.

If you want i can post up the sheet i got with the allignment giving a full rundown of the car, your choice bud.

Cheers.

Yes, please post the sheet.
It is always good to see these data sheets as you can learn from them.

Glad the car is ACE!

You will soon be ready for the next (big) step!

ps: for racing we use 2.5 deg or greater camber...

Sorry for the delay, been riding my arse off lately.

camber.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

I am having my SPec C done on Saturday in Exeter and am desperate to find good settings before I get there.
As has been said here I do not want them just looking at a standard Impreza settings and applying them.

I have read items saying the front of a spec runs anything between 3 and 5 degrees camber??? Is this right?

What about the rears also?

5 deg neg!?
Crazey on any tyre.

I have run 2.5 to 3 on radials on the road but for tarmac track all round, not on a spec c though.
Sure you don't mean CASTOR and not camber?

You can try calling Curtis at Powerstation for advice, or at least a starting place. He might share Trade Secrets as he does the Litchfield Subaru's.

Think it should read Castor.....

Still not sure what to run camber wise though. I shall try calling Curtis for sure thanks.

Think I will try and go for a mild track set up as its really a weekend car and is going to go the nurburgring soon so want a good set up for that. Testing of track is going to be done also to ensure that the handling how I want it!

What should the camber be front and back for road use without giving too much tire wear?
just got the whiteline camber bolts for the back so would like to know before i get it setup properly.

Most people run 1.5 deg negative all round. The front will align to that easy, but the rears 'might' struggle due to lack of adjustability, hence camber bolts.

On all normal Impreza's the castor is fixed front and back.

This situation is typical on EVO's etc, so you need adjustable top mounts to change castor (to increase it).

Such increases will radically reduce understeer, esp in the dry which an alignment to match the change.

For maxing out rcornering you can run to 2.5 even 3 deg neg camber, but there is a compromise in grip on accelleration and I seen a nervy feeling in braking.
My Sti is a focused hillclimb/road car meant to go fast on a tight twist track, not the Ring.

Curtis will straighten you out!

grease the camber bolts up good and proper before fitting them, one of mine siezed up and snapped :(

Dead right. Observe the right torque settings. Too high a torque and the bolts can snap through stress corrosion.
I'm sure Sticky means the area that is essentric in the hub/upright and not the thread of the clamping nut.

Lol i thought you were screaming i had 5 degrees of neg camber. :lol1:

As 911 says 1.5neg front and rear for road use, you will love the difference though i do feel ready to uprate the arb's, the car is much improved especially on the initial turn in. :)

You will find i have higher castor due to fitting an alk and tbh id advise going for that before you sort the geometry, it really makes a difference.

Why dont you have 5 degrees neg camber huh? :) lol

Go on try it

threads were fine, the part that has the cam lobe on it siezed up in the hub, so when the head was turned to adjust the rear camber, it snapped off :(

Hence greasing all the internal faces! Rust gets in everywhere.

Before i take the car to Powerstation, I always strip and clean/grease all those points so Curtis there has the easiest job of tweeking everything into truth. Makes all the difference.

5 deg camber? wow! 3 is surprisingly sharp and very good but for a touch of tyre wear. I think the Jap track cars go to 5 or even more?

I've done something similar recently.

Make sure you have it booked it before you do the camber bolts i was waiting for wheels-inmotion.co.uk to get there new centre open, driving it was a nightmare, then we found that i had managed to set 2.3 neg on the nsf and 1 neg on the osf. Then some other random cambers on the rear, which also threw the toe out.

Tony at WIM sorted me out though, so i'm well happy now. Also he now has brand new rigs, and is specialising in chassis dynamics, a little like powerstation.

I'm now running 1.5 neg all round, and it's excellent, roll on the tsl group buy.

I took mine in at the weekend and had it set up.

Was told by the guy doing the car that I could only get -0.5 deg camber on the front? Whats happened? How is everyone getting more than this?

I have camber bolts in the top holes of the strut to hub.

I am really confused.

You should have asked him at the time why he couldn't do it.Sometimes you can get a car where something is bent and there isn't enough adjustment to get it how you want it,i doubt this is the reason tho as normally when something is bent it's only on one side that won't adjust to spot on settings.

It may have been that the camber bolts where siezed to there old settings and couldn't get them to move properly.

Ring them back and ask the reason.

I have had the bolts out myself so know they can move really freely.
The explanation given was that it had reached its most eccentric point and was reducing back the other way towards a positive condition.

That explanation is perfectly correct. It is the way a camber bolt works. The Whiteline bolts give you more than stock bolts in the front.

A bent strut is a common thing and could easily be the reason.

A front should get 1.5 but the rears will never on a stock bolt.
1.5 deg neg camber all round works wonders, so worth working to get it.

Think I shall have to invest in some whiteline bolts then.
As long as it seems reasonable to people in the know here then im ok with that.
i fully understand the way the bolts work but just seemed dissapointing when lots of people here talked of more camber which is what i really want. i shall be placing an order I think!

As well as camskill, you might want to try demon theives, i got mine from them, with a discount, and they were eibach items, which were cheaper than camskill. I stress the reason mine were delayed was due to eibach changing from air freight to ship freight, and nothing to do with demon tweaks.

demon thieves only list a WRX model from 96 - 00. Can anyone confirm the bolts will fit a JDM blob eye?

Thanks

I see a problem arising soon. :D
Like the inside of your front tyres being not in good shape in a few thousand miles.

The trouble is this..
You keep hearing this magical 1.5 degrees negative camber figure, now that's great, however the guy doing the alignment has done exactly what you asked...
However when you said 1.5 degrees, you meant one and a half degrees. which by the way is a great setting for a classic scoob with the ALK fitted.
What isn't so great is that protyre have actually given you nearly 2 degrees of camber because 1.5 degrees is what his (and our) machine work in which is.. degrees and MINUTES.
there are 60 minutes in a degree, so what you should have had done is a figure of 1 degree 30 mins (one and a half degrees)
Please don't keep calling it 1.5 degrees as most machines now use degrees and minutes. It is confusing.

Nearly 2 degrees of camber on a road car is too much, great handling as you said, but keep an eye on those inside edges for a while yet. ;)

Just to pick up on a point with mbayley77s car, the shape you have saved as an avatar there suggests it's a newage and quite often the front camber bolts don't allow more than about a degree, nothing is bent, it's just the way they make em :D
You "could" get a set of camber bolts for the front, however I'd suggest a set of top mounts and increase the castor instead.
By doing this you can run less static camber (camber in a straight line) which gives good straight line braking as more of the tyre is in contact with the tarmac, and it will in turn (due to the increased castor) give you more dynamic camber (camber during turns) which is where you get your cornering grip from.
All in all, longer tyre life, better braking stability and better cornering ability.
No brainer. :thumb:

The front didn't need touching, the car was adjusted in hong kong, ive had the paradas on for a good year now with no sign of scrubbing, im sure she'll be fine.

What?
The car was adjusted in Hong kong but you gave a link to print out from protyre in Plymouth?
You made the post on the second of April this year but have had the Paradas on for a year....


You probably won't see the tyre wearing unless you look real close as it doesn't tend to wear the tyre on the tread very far across the flat surface, it wears the inner "corner" off the tyre and is very hard to spot from just looking under the arch.

Take care anyway.

That is so right. The tyre wear is very very focused and you can drive for ever thinking all is well till you park it on full lock...

Been there etc.

My tyres never last long enough to have this problem ! :D