will i need a remap
 

Hi guys ive just bought a 96 type ra from england and i am wondering will i have to get it remapped for our fuel in the north. cheers

depends on what the last guys set up was.if its not been tweeked by him he must have been running an octane booster for safety or he should have been.would do no harm finding out and in the meen time stick to super at least plus a booster to be on the safe side

jk autoparts up bt connswater sell a great octane booster £3.50 per bottle brings rating up by 4 points pretty good value

also stick to bp or texaco for good 97ron juice

maybe wing a wide band up ur pipe just to see what way its running, i did and took a big whiff and stood up to quick and near fell over, i only do it wen am board now lol!

Rocket pmsl

mate, i swear. larne sucks, we have no entertainment at all.

Hi Guys,

I'm currently running an Octaine Booster but still not sure what the "Safety" Actually intails what would be made safer???

Cheers:thumb:

thanks for the replies guys,it was bought from a garage as a fresh import and the guy said he had only put 1 tanks of bp ultimate in it so that is what ive been using.The reason i am asking is because i took a friend out in it the other night and when i put my foot down a bit the car boosted then the boost cut out then in again so he seems to think it needs remapped. what do you boys think

4 pointsis only half a ron ten points is a ron thats how the octane boosters catch u out

So there is a problem causing it to overboost. That has nothing to do with requiring re-mapped.

It needs that problem fixed.

Certainly not bad advice.....but when it comes to the jap fuel thing, AFR's have nothing to do with it. Its too much ign timing is the problem.

@stevie - hey man, is there anyone that can plug into our types of ECU over here, i had to pay a guy on the duke to bring a scooby scanner home to check summit out for me as our snap on one wont read it mate.

cheers btw.

lets make our own octane booster lol

Homebrew Octane Boosters

No Geffo ya can't drink it lol

far too many people think these magic computers fix cars....

they dont, and diagnostic equipment is only as good as the person using it. Many of whom havent a clue how to use them properly.

Most Jap cars self diagnose to a degree anyway. There are jumper plugs underneath the steering column on the Subarus..dont recall colours off the top of my head. Join them together and they flash fault codes on the CEL.

But more than likely it will tell you nothing, because an overboosting problem is most likely a mechanical problem, not a faulty sensor or electronic item.

The plugs are
black to display fault code as a series of flashes of the cel

green to reset ecu will post full list of codes and reset sequence once I have time

can i just add at this point my cars running fine lol!

i was just adding a lil to the thread for spoon.

guys i dont have an overboost problem the problem is that when i put the boot down a bit the car pulls fine when the turbo comes in but then it feels like the turbo cuts out for a second then comes back in again.:wonder:

If it overboosts, it will cut out until boost has dropped to a safe level.

fuel cut I thin kthe factory fc comes into play about 1.3 bar I could be wrong though
Fitting of a fuel cut deffencer will raise the fc limit

weird im selling one lol

depends when in 96..

early 96 cars are lower than that I think. Later would be a little higher. The engine and ecu etc are totally different.

As for an FCD...thats just asking for trouble in the wrong hands.

I fyou are getting boost " pulse" rather than a solid cut off the power , it could be due to a MAF fault, earlier classics were prone to this prior to melting pistons, mine did for about a week before I needed the first of two new engines. Replacement MAF from Subaru around 390, but think NeilP1 has a couple spare, easy fix too....might be worth a Pm to try and borrow one to see if it fixes the problem, 5 minutes would fit it, then an ECU reset 30 minutes tops and should show if the problems sorted....

Just my tuppences wrth and am open to correction here by someone with more knowledge.....= ANYONE LOL

i have the same problem with overboosting just over 1.1 bar. a mate sent me this ULSTERSCOOB
waste gate solenoid valve
The 1997 specification lowered the turbo boost pressure from 1.0 bar to 0.9 bar. The engine breather system vents into the air intake and it is possible for the oil and condensing, burnt oil vapours build up in this valve. This valve is a safety device for detecting overboost and will cause fuel and ignition to be cut if it senses that 1.2bar (97/98 models) has been reached. If it is bunged up, it isn't sensing correctly and will shut down the engine under high boost conditions. The solution advised by Subaru France was not to fill the oil up to maximum but to leave it at half filled only.
i have not tried draining any oil out yet as the car is off the road 4 a couple of days

i have since found out that if you use a different boost pack and controller from the factory standard setup this solves this problem on earlier models

Could also be a bunged up boost solenoid, do a search on here for pics, but can be taken apart and cleaned thoroughly with liberal amounts of brake cleaner to get rid of all the crap, another easy fix and half hour should do it.....

MAF on pre 99 cars are very reliable...failures are rare.

on 99/00 cars....might be worth keeping spares lol very common problem. A lot cheaper than 390 though. I think Subaru used to try and sell people the entire housing, when the MAF was a removable item at a fraction of the cost.

Pre 99 cars the MAF is a complete housing though. Should be good used ones available at breakers etc, or ebay etc.

Randomly swapping solenoid valves between cars could be dodgy. There are restrictors in some plumbing, and the ecu will be programmed slightly different depending on valve used etc etc...

So any boost reduction isnt simply because of a different valve. its because that valve is now wrong for that car.

But fitment of a decent boost controller is always a good move, if fitted and set up correctly, or as Brocks says...give your existing solenoid and plumbing a good cleaning.

Stevie, forgive my dyslexic typing meant to read £90 NOT 390, damn 3 key being the one the £ sign is on LOL. Wouldnt change or swap solenoids as you have stated would try the cleaning method and a borrowed MAF first of all....