Whiteline subframe lock?
 

After doing a search and not really finding much to go on..

Just picked up my rear ARB and drop links, I saw the locks on the shelf and just thought I'd ask if they do actually do anything useful - for £20 it seems a no-brainer if they have even the slightest improvement.

So, can anyone explain what these actually do? I've read the description and I understand that bit, just don't understand what effect they actually have on the dynamics of the car.

Cheers for any help.

I did the same when I bought all my whiteline kit, was told the locking bolts stop body roll and make the car handle like a go kart, I've not fitted it yet, so cannot comment, but looking forward to tessting it out (and at £20, if it's no use, it's no major loss)

Mike

The subframe lock bolts centre the rear subframe. They are what Subaru use to hold the subframe in place whilst they bolt up the supporting bushes. When you fit them use plenty of oil and take it gently as the threads could be quite rusty. As the subframe will now be bolted to the chassis without any rubber to absorb vibration there will be a slight increase in road noise. I think it took me about a hour to fit them as the threads needed cleaning.

Any improvement in handling though?

I've been tempted by this and the diff support bushes (stops the diff support from banging upwards on gear change), but I'm put off by the increase in NVH.

After doing a bit more reading elsewhere; there is some comments saying that the subframe lock bolts shouldn't be permenently fitted, as it places stresses on the chassis that can result in damage, and that they should only be fitted for weekend/track use.

Is this just some arse-covering paranoia, or is it a genuine concern?

Mine have been in nearly a year now, I think it has tweaked the handling slightly as there is now no play in the rear subframe. With regards to they should not be fitted permenantly fitted, I feel this is just a getout for if something did happen after you fitted them. But don't quote me on that.

I get what you mean.

I expected it was a get out clause. Its obvious that stresses will be increased as the 'play' that the bolts remove doesn't just disappear, its got to go somewhere! I didn't think it would be enough to cause the car to crack in two though.

Mine have been in for 3 years, 40 hillclimb events, 8000 road miles, no probs, like all Whiteline products really.
360ste is dead right.
A stiff, true rear subframe is worth £20 any time!
The threads in the body will be rusty. I had to run a tap into mine to fit the bolts.

Graham

Next job is to be the whiteline gearbox mounts will have to see how that goes. Last year I replaced all the suspension rubbers with powerflex bushes all that I need to do now is pluck up the courage to remove the rear diff and change the four bushes for that. Anyone done them?

Yep: 3 years ago too.
A hard job, so be ready for it (3 Shredded Wheat at least)
Graham

Cheers for the info. Very much appreciated :)

I really want to get the ALK fitted as well but I'm trying to have a restrained month! Just trying to get the essentials done.

It never stops....

dont eant to add to ya woes, but ive just had the alk fitted and i was a bit jubious about it to start with, as to whether it was actually any good or not, but my worries have now disappeared, it is possibly the best bit of kit ive ever purchased for the car, and would reccommend it to anyone.

Thanks.

Just what I wanted to hear! :p

ALK will probably be next month (maybe not fit), then I deploy to Iraq for June/July, I come back, want to get a remap done, then maybe camber bolts front and rear and get a local place I've been recommended to do all the geometery.

Going to see if that feels good enough to be before I start spending money on pillowball topmounts, springs, coilovers and the like!

I came from my Saxo [ignore the image and drive one if you haven't, you will have a big smile at the end of it!], which, although low on power, was able to use every single bit of it in the corners. The Impreza seems very much the other way round at the moment!

Subframe lock is great to use, it stops the rear from waggling all over the place oin bumpy surface like the 'Ring or so.
About that permanently fitting ? I tought all type R's had locked subframes as standard ?

Whatever you do, do not install that "front of rear subframe washer kit", normally to prevent the rear from clunking when shifting.
It consists of a few washers to put between the large bushes at the rear.
They made my car drone and vibrate like hell when doing 60/70 mph and it took a while before i found out. (First I tought it was a bad wheel/tyre, worn out shaft or imagination... :) )

I have no rubber what so ever in my hill climb/road car chassis.
It drones and clunks a bit, the rear plated diff cracks like it's broken, the front diff does the same (etc)

Any of these 'tightening' mods cost in harshness at minimum, but the performance compensates every time.

The biggest shock will be fitting bearing top mounts and coil overs as the car changes totally if set-up right.

.... Norfolk back roads!

Gotta get them then ;)