BP ultimate is ****e on tek3 optimax setup.
 

Just let you guys know that I,ve had a bad experience with Ultimate fuel. I was traveling in Leeds the other weekend and was very low in fuel and couldnt find any shell stations so I tried 30quids worth of BP ultimate. Travaling down M1 to B'ham about 1 hours going steady 75ish. one time i needed to over take a slow van quickly, floored on 5th and 4 lights flashing on my knock-link!! i then eased up and floored it again, same thing 4 lights. ****e myself, it never happened before with optimax or v-power 2 yrs, all sort of speed and gears, it only ever lights up 1or2 lights max.
A few days later when the car was almost empty I filled up with v-power, drove for 50 odd miles to make sure all old fuel is used then tried same speed and floored it a few time. only dim first light showing.
This concludes from my personal experience that V-power is much better than ****ey ultimate. I think ultimate just cleans your tank and not give extra power.

if your car is mapped (optimized) for a higher octane and you then run on a fuel with a lower octane what do you expect?

I carry 2 tubs of Millers OB in my boot in case I can't get V-Power and have to use SUL. Nice to know neat Ultimate won't immediately destroy engine but a dodgy way to find out. What car/ECU is this, a new age should compensate with loss of power and not light up your KL.

I had no choice really. I've also tried (no choice again as shells are hard to find) esso super and sainsburys super before but never had more than 2 lights when floored! Its just ultimate is sooooo crap!

It would have killed my engine if i'd not had knocklink installed. Will defo buy some millers from now on.
Yes its newage bugeye wrx 02.

BTW do millers have expiry dates?:wonder: cheers

I do agree it is cr@p, I appear to get less knock using morrisons 95ron on my commander than I do using bp ultimate.

I had my car mapped on esso 97 but run it mainly on either tesco 99 or vpower, if I do resort to using 95 I am generally more conservative with my driving style

If it's mapped correctley it should be able to adapt to the lower RON, adjust the IAM and use a couple of degree's less of the advance map (you should have about 4 degree's to play with at peak torque).

You may feel a marginal power difference.

If it can't, then your IAM must of already dropped on optimax/Ulitmate and will then will drop through the floor. The advance map won't be used and you will be running just the base map with no knock control.

huh! what is iam? how do u adjust it? cheers

Millers 250ml bottles say on side "use within 1 year of purchase" I bought 10 bottles 6 months ago and havn't used any. I suppose when the years up I'll buy some more and put the old stuff in my lawnmower or just tip it in with the V Power. Of course I've no idea how long it was on the shelf before I got it as there's no date. I also have a couple of tins of Silko Pro Boost which doesn't seem to have any date constraint but you have to use about 500ml of this for same benefit as 250ml of Millers.

I'm sure, as Scott says, it should adapt at the penalty of some power loss. Are you sure all's well with engine/ECU/Sensors.

Ultimate is funny stuff, I've used it in the past before my remap and although it ran a bit rougher after a tank or so the fuel consumption was about 2 mpg better. Pat the mapper says its something to do with the way it atomises. He recommends exclusive use of V Power. (not much of a surprise).

IAM = Ignition Advance Multiplier.
No you can't change it, the ECU decides what it should be.
It's a figure that defines how much of the advance map can be used.

If knocks appear outside of the load range and rev range usually in the safe zones, ecu wont retard (Happens with BP Ultimate here in Aust too) with exception of high revs (noisy zone). From the poster above doesnt appear its retarding so perhaps its outside the load range.

What Revs was the knock detected ?

not exactly sure of the rev range. normally cruising at 75ish at 3k, so probably kL lit up at 4k ish!

if at 4000 you havent retarded timing, it's most likely happening off throttle at which you are typically running above 20:1 AFR and in vacuum. You need to know where the knock is detected and not just jump at the conclusion your engine will explode because you have knocklink and it's lighting up. Keep an eye on when it does happen, if it happens on full boost at wot, then theres trouble and your ecu should pull back in the 4000 range. If it happens when you come off throttle, then its a different ballgame.

Mappers seem to be of the opinion that BP utlimate comes in behind:

V power
Tesco 99
Esso SUL
.
.
.

Diesel
Coal
Barley water... ;)