HELP
My 93 wrx is still not working even though she has had a new engine. now it appears that she is running rough. autotune tune tried to plug it into there computer but it will not find the car. they have said it feels like she is not getting the right fuel mix or as if a valve is burnt out but a pressure test has said all is fine please please help. i have also spoke to len at subaru 4 you and he cant help.:wonder:
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Few things to check though:
Cambelt timing Mass Airflow Sensor Coil packs/leads Spark plugs (I presume they are new, but you can get duff ones out the box too ). Sticky/blocked injector. |
She has had a new cambelt. though. how could i cure a blocked injector. she also came up with fault code 45. but wont cause the crap running would it???:confused:
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If i'm not mistaken, code 45 is a pressure sensor, therefore if there's a pressure problem, there might also be a massive air leak.... possibly running lean, don't drive it hard til it's sorted!!
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i havent even driven it the garage who fitted the engine couldnt get it running right so they took it to someone else
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Originally Posted by 1666matt
(Post 6612812)
She has had a new cambelt.
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that i could not tell you
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firstly eliminate the error code.. 45 is the MAP sensor or pressure exchange solenoid.
Look on the drivers side inner wing and you will see a little sensor whcih is black and the same shape as a small match box with Denso written on it.. if you cannot find it then that is the problem.. if you find it then check it is electrically plugged in.. there is a vaccum pipe attached to it (or should be) follow this to the next sensor whcih is the pressure exchange solenoid, check that is plugged in electrically and has vac pipe in and out.. follow the vac line which should go to the inlet manifold.. check it is plugged in.. if all that is okay then I would replace the map sensor as it maybe faulty.. The pressure exchange solenoid could also be faulty causing the CEL to come on but unless the pipe is off I wouldn't expect it to cause rough running. Simon |
oh and also worth resetting the ecu to see if the error reoccurs as it might just be an old fault hanging around..
ECU Reset and Error codes Turn OFF the ignition Connect Error code Connectors and Test Mode Connectors : 2 black connectors under dash, connect black to black and 2 green connectors under dash, connect green to green, they are by your left knee when sat in the drivers seat and often taped back to the loom if they haven't been used before. Turn ON ignition but don't start the engine Engine Check lamp comes on Press accelerator pedal to the floor Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds Release foot off the pedal completely Start the engine Check engine light error code is indicated by Pulsing lamp If an error is detected then Check the ECU Code If no error is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes i.e. until warm (do not use boost or high rpm!) When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash An Error Code is indicated by a flashing check engine light of varying length of flash, a flash of around once a second is the okay code and indicates all is well. If an error code is detected Check the ECU Code Turn ignition OFF and Disconnect Connectors If there is a fault Check the Appropriate Sensor Error Codes An Error code is defined as a slow flash followed by fast flash i.e 2 slow and 3 fast = 23 Mass Airflow sensor. A continuous on/off at the same speed is no fault found. Code Fault 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 Starter switch 13 Camshaft position sensor 21 Engine coolant temperature sensor 22 Knock sensor 23 Mass air flow sensor 24 Idle air control solenoid 31 Throttle position sensor 32 Oxygen sensor 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2 35 Purge control solenoid valve 42 Idle switch 44 Wastegate control solenoid valve 45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve 51 Neutral position switch |
ok now i have been told its a firing problem
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think whoever is fitting this engine havent got a clue
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