Does any one know of a reason why you can't put one straight into a MY00?

It's just a thought! I want to see if it'll restore the loss in power from a MY99 to a MY00, as there doesn't seem to be any other mechanical differences between the 2 model years. I've owned both types and the difference is pronounced.

When the MY00 was announced Subaru quoted the same BHP but said that the torque was up by 1lb at 215lbs instead of 214ibs. They also said that the MPG was better slightly. This leads me to believe that they fiddled with the ECU (probably fo emmission reasons) and ended up with a slower and more problematic car.

Or is the only cure a link?

F

often wondered this myself and agree with you between the difference from MY99 to MY00.I had thought it was with UK cars first,as a euro import was 20bhp higher than mine and other MY00's on a rolling road day earlier this year,but on Sunday found that some of the cars I thought to be UK's are Euro's,so now believe that any good MY00's have been made possibly in late 99 and only got the cosmetics to become and sold as MY00's.

thing is that after driving most model years and tracking them too I feel the MY98's the best of all.

john

My MY00 absolutely flied on the original ECU with none of this hesitation stuff except when cold. With PPP and DP and carefully manicured boost it is a corker. So not all of them are crap.

I thought the only thing stopping the change is the immboliser code stored on the ECU.

I think any dealer can reprogram the ECU to accept your keys!

Just a thought
Andy

John,

have you ever had your car on a rolling road and have you driven many other model years?

was hoping to see your car at Star on Sunday as someone said you are a local.

Not had it on RR yet as still finishing the last boost mods. Have driven (at a dealer a MY98, MY99 and a P1). When out of the box and run in it felt just as good as the MY98/99, and now modded it feels just as good as a unmodded P1 - in the sense that is has MUCH more pull low down, obviously doesn't quite attack 7000rpm in quite the same way. But I am now running 17.5PSI. When I was running 16.5PSI I slightly pulled away from a run-in P1 giving the full moo on a straight. On the next straight he just kept up, but was all over me on the corners (mainly my driving style - I am very cautious with corners after a very nasty experience). I really think there is very little in it - one has more low down torque, the other maybe slightly more top end. Come out for a ride and see what you think - esp. after I finish the boost control. I am pretty conifident that after that I will be fairly near to extracting what useful power there is out of a TD04. And I actually quite like the little turbo - very quick spool up.

Edited to say that "237bhp" from a PPP just doesn't tell the story when you decat, induct and boost. But they do quote 258lbft still with the downpipe unchanged - up the boost a bit at the top end and I believe 270bhp is on the cards from other dyno results (or 280bhp if you believe PE - I don't). The PPP ECU drops the boost at the top end far more than the TD04 itself drops off.

[Edited by john banks - 11/27/2001 9:30:55 PM]

On my car MY00, the seat belt tag says 12/99. This may mean that my car was made in December 99. I bought it in June 00 from Holland brand new.

When my friend, who is a scoob tuner in OZ, came here for a holiday and to do some mods to my car, said that my car went a lot better than the MY00s in OZ after driving it. He drove my car before we did any mods to it and he was impressed with the way it went as standard.

So maybe the theory that the MY99s and early MY00s go better could be true. But then on the other hand, maybe some cars are just flukey, (spelling?), better than others.

Wrexy.

6/00 on mine.

End of that theory then.

Certainly Babber has one of the more reluctant MY00's from what he says and he thought mine was quite good -although it was already modded. Maybe I just like to think my car is quick? T-UK you should come and have a ride and let me know what you think.

anyone else got any bright ideas why there are so many gutless MY00's out there :confused: .

do not really go on rolling road figures unless it's on the same day with same operator,but find the MY00's constantly down to MY98/99's.

where I guage my cars is on the Knockhill main straight,not through the bends,just from the hairpin to the bridge for those of you that know K/hill.standard,my car was slower than my m8's standard MY99, but once decatted and K&N(panel),my car would then out drag him.he then got a standard MY98 and there was no difference what so ever on the whole straight,lap after lap.I have noticed this with other cars on track,but as I know his cars are standard only use his in my theories,he now has a standard MY00 and guess what,he says it hesitates and is slower than his old cars.

John B,

will mail you the next time I'm going up,I'm trying to get a 2nd hand PPP ECU and would like to see the gains with your car.would have liked to go Link,but feel that when BRD are so far away it will be more trouble than it's worth and besides,with a mappable ECU there is too much temtation to go for big turbos,fmic etc and spend too much.

Agree entirely with your thoughts re Link - both reasons were mine for going for PPP.

If it is the ECU a PPP would fix it surely?

What boost do you run and are there differences to the MY99s?

All,

Been reading this thread with interest. I went and checked my seat belts and found 06/00, but I'm not convinced this means the car was made in june 2000. Surely there must be a more accurate way of telling when the car was made, and hence if different ECUs are used.

I know with some cars you can take the VIN number and the dealers can tell you every detail about the car manufacturing process, dates, etc

Rememeber though, mine was fine until the 15 k service, that's when it all went pair shape !!!! Before I was able to get 31.4 MPG with air con. on doing 80 to 90 MPH on a run. Not anymore :( more like 22 MPG.

I have asked my company if I can buy the car and they eventually said yes, but they want £18,300.40 LOL. Paid the 40p deposite ;) 26K on the clock, HELLO....

Seriously though, I'm so pissed off with the car, if I had bought it then the LINK it would be. As my car is classed as a Director car then I don't think anyone will want the Lemon!!! Looks like I'm stuck with it. However, my company is speaking to ACL, and they WILL take ownership and hopefully resolve it for me. They are confident that it's the software on the ECU, and apparently there is a upgrade to fix it (so I've been told, but I'd take that with a pinch of salt) Soon as they do, I'll make sure you all know the fix ;) I will not give up until it is fixed, so watch out IM!!!!!!! It's terrible situation when the dealers have been given a fax that states "They all do that, sir" shame I wasn't aware of all the "known characteristics" before I bought the car, cause I would have bought a nice E320 or a Honda type R instead..... Rest assured though, that there are enough pissed of MY00 owners out here, that won't rest until the "known characteristics" are identified and fixed under warranty!!!

Andy Tang, oups would have been there wondering why the car won't start after trying a ECU from a MY99. I'll ask the dealers help on this one. They're as keen as I am to resolve my problems.

Rant over [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

Cheers Phill C

Edited because of the red mist!!

[Edited by babber - 11/28/2001 9:26:02 AM]

18k is a stupid price. If you can get the car for decent money and change the ECU you MIGHT have your fix.

T-uk - I don't track the car, but I live in Fife also. Email me offline if you want to come out for a run.

How many miles are on these 'slow' MY00s? Mine didn't free up until at least 15k miles (in fact, I think it got a lot better after the 30k service, and it absolutely flew after its recent 52.5k)

If anybody is disappointed, I have a 'spare' P1 ECU if someone wants to make me an offer for it?

Well Babber's on 26 is more run in than mine on 12.5...

Mike, I'll offer to try it out in my car and I'll not charge you a penny!

Seriously though, won't a P1 ECU be designed only for the STi gubbins?

Re the question about whether a PPP ECU will fix the problem. I've thought about that and so I tried out a MY00 PPP car but it didn't impress me as much as I expected it to. Now I am confused?

I'd still like to try a MY99 ECU so if anyone's got one hanging around (Big Bear?) then I'll be eternally greatful.

F

Floyd,

I'll try one on mine, should get in on Friday, so will get the dealers to try it on Saturday.

Wouldn't the P1 ECU be a STi one, but mapped for lower actane fuel ?

Big Bear has a N-reg, so will have different connectors.

Cheers Phill C

I had a MY98 with a PE Phase 1 the car was a rocket and gave no problems for the 18 months I had it. I traded for a MY00 which was nicknamed the hesitating bag of sh!te. I had the car linked, which got rid of the hesitation and gave more power, but idle was a problem. So got rid of this for the P1. Even this did not live up to the MY98 PE Phase 1. Lost all confidence in the impreza and have gotten out of the game. I should have kept the MY98, not a lot of cars kept up with old bluey.:( Live and learn.

My one has got 7500 miles on the clock. And when my friend drove it, (see above post), it only had 750 miles on it. :confused:

Wrexy.

does anyone have the part numbers for a MY00 Prodrive ECU and a P1 ECU.the reason being,I remember a thread about how the Prodrive ECU's have STI on them,so maybe P1 ECU's are the same.

Hi all
My Prodrive ECU (MY2000 PPP) made from Sti. AFAIK all the Impreza ECUs are from STI, not sure.
T-UK my friend Stelios in this BBS has a MY2000 Prodrive ECU for sale, e-mail me if you want more info.
JIM

come on! some of you must know the part numbers for a PPP ECU,possibly off a invoice.if Mike Tuckwood's P1 ECU is the same I want to get it bought.

Jim,
would rather deal with someone closer to home so I can try it with them as if it plugs in and fires up without any reprograming I would offer more.

john

I was guddling around in my PPP ECU tonight and it had an STi badge on it in pink. But no model numbers on it. Had a serial number and made by JECS. The original ECU had a green sticker I think and was also JECS. My PPP invoice doesn't have part numbers.

How can an ECU for a P1 with different turbo and cams and rev limit be interchangeable with a UK model - do you really want an 8200rpm rev limit with cast pistons and a TD04?? Why does the P1 produce 39bhp more? Can't imagine them being suitable for a UK car.

cheers John,
I too think a P1 ECU will be different,but Mr Tuckwood knows more than most about these cars and for him to suggest it made me think it may be a possibility.I even double checked his post to see if there were any sarcastic smiles.

I'm sure there was a thread earlier this year that gave all part numbers and individual prices for the PPP components.

P1 ECU? I'd never considered it before thinking it would be too different to try, or is it a wind up?

Perhaps Mr Rawle can shed some light on this subject?

F

The P1 ecu is, in connector terms, the same as the STi 5 and 6. The UK cars have a differing wiring loom to the Japanese specs in that certain pins are in different positions within the same connectors thus the P1 ecu will not work in a UK MY99 or 00 model, basically the car won't run. Oh its also speed restricted as it is basically a Jap spec item unless a delimiter is fitted.

The MY99 and 00 ecu's are interchangeable.

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 11/29/2001 11:16:23 PM]

:)

Richard

Thanks for putting closure on that idea Bob.

Phil, let us know how you get on with the MY99 ECU, also whether you have problems with the immobiliser reprogramming bit.

F