20g boost help
 

My car is in for a remap after fitting some equal length headers an a TD05 20g, the spec of my 02 STI is

FMIC
HKS Fcon ECU
HKS EVC5 boost control
HKS plugs
Fuel pump upgrade
Powertech induction
3inch Decat
Equal length headers
20g turbo

the turbo only made 1.18bar initially so we replaced the actuator on the turbo and it now makes 1.28 bar max...... Does anyone have any ideas as to what potential issues could be causing this? :eek:

Cheers :D

How about it's not installed properly ?

it was fitted professionally with all the pipes replaced inculding the inlet pipe

Is the turbo brand new?

I assume its Ecutek'd.

If so, why do you need an HKS boost controller.

Ecutek can handle your boost requirements perfectly well.

My MY02 STI runs Ecutek with the 20g and pulls 1.77bar :D:D:D


What did your 'mapper' have to say about it ?

its not ecutek mark, if you look he has an HKS fcon ECU.

Something doesnt sound right though, I presume there is no detectible blowing anywhere from the headers/up pipe? Filtrations ok i presume.....

Sorry to hi-jack the thread slightly.

Mark did you have to do any modifications to fit the 20g turbo and what bhp are you putting out? I ask as I am looking to upgrade my Turbo next year. Currently running 360 bhp on standard turbo with GEMS and supporting mods. Thanks Steve

i wouldnt bother with a 20g if your already getting 360 mate, the 20g is a 380-400 bhp turbo absolute tops on normal fuel. Wouldnt be much of an increase for the expense.

how is it making current boost ? ie does it take ages

check your dump valve
check for leaks round the uppipe
check vac pipes around boost solinoid

Turbo was my old 20g which happy gave 1.5 bar tailing off to 1.2.

It was PROPERLY ported and had no problems what-so-ever.

Oops Neil ;) didn't see that bit.

as the others have said

Check

dump valve
dump valve gasket
boost pipes
also check for leaks in the headers/up-pipe (weld joints etc)

etc etc..

360ste,

If your already running 360, then again as Neil says the 20g isn't enough of a performance jump to warrant the time and expense.

Bloody good turbo though, been extremely happy with mine.

Thanks for the advice, am looking at getting upto the 400 mark so getting idea's for the build. Steve

Alloy,, did you remember to fit the boost bullet back into the vac pipe from the actuator?

Spoke to the garage today, the turbo will only make 1.33 bar, with the actuator closed it will produce an absolute max of 1.5bar. The options i have are to accept the car making 1.33 bar and produce 8whp more than my vf35 (not great bhp per pound spent :mad: ), to have the turbo reconditioned fit a bigger exhaust housing and re-core it at a cost of 500 ish, to weld the actuator closed so when ever full throttle is applied it'll generate its 1.5bar or absolute most ( not ideal to say the least), or have a new turbo fitted :rolleyes:

I'm lost for ideas, getting frustrated with it all and my pockets are getting thinner, any further ideas gents or advice on what i should do......:)

That isn't the answer.

for one thing a vf35 running 1.3 will have less power than a 20g running 1.3

all seems a bit strange here, by chance is this the same garage that recommend a hks ecu rather than ecu tek

the vf35 made 277 hp at the hubs, the 20g made 288 i think at 1.33bar of boost

Anyone had issues with a standard 20g turbo like this?

I know i've never heard of anything like it. God, even if the turbo was knacked, it would/should STILL be able to show the boost, as long as everything else is working properly???

Is the wastegate actuator deffo holding the WG poppet shut? Is there tension on the WG poppet holding it shut? Does the turbo build boost quickly?

Cheers

are you in a position to get it looked at by a known expert from this forum, Andy F, Bob Rawle, RCMS etc etc, they will prob be able to give you an indication of what the issue is, and what your best solution would be

New inlet pipe collapsing? (Samco?)

Ok, the inlet pipe has been replaced, with what?????

If its a silicone of some sort, my immediate guess would be that the inlet pipe is collapsing!!!

Do not feck about with the turbo YET!

I believe it has been replaced with an OEM item. If the pipe was collapsing though, how would it make boost? surely you need air going in to make boost?

Ah!! (if its OEM)

I dont think they collapse closed Neil, merely collapse as to restrict inflow to the turbo.

If that isnt the case, and the Turbo was working fine on Dave's car, then IMO its an installation/leak problem

define professional ??

Dont they have any suggestions as to what may be the problem ?

I've been speaking to Andy/Alloy on MSN and the company who is working on it, have been convinced it is the turbo from the start.

I suggested the inlet pipe, as well as something maybe going through the turbo, since they changed the headers. Ie: exhaust paste or shard of metal. Andy said they cleaned them out with duck oil, but IMHO this would cause anything to be stuck till the oil is burnt off.

I reckon it's a leak, or yes the inlet pipe, but without seeing it, the idea is just an idea.

And yes, the turbo was definately fine on my car. It came off my car, had a quick check of the wheels, etc and was boxed up straight away and sent off.

i have offered to put the turbo on my car to see if it behaves differently but sadly the car is still in the garage so thats not an option, just to eliminate the turbos buggered theory!

Think i might pick her up producing 1.33bar, neil if your not too busy i might shoot up when your taking your turbo off and we can have a look how the turbo behaves on your motor...

sound mate.....