2.0 lit or 2.3 lit?
 

What's the advantage of having higher displacement on a forged engine?

Is a forged engine not the real thing then??? ;)

Pete

depending on the build a 2.33ltr is better than a 2ltr !!! but both are just as good

A genuine question requires a genuine answer pete, now bugger off before i report you to the mods.

Incidently,the yanks say something like theres no replacement for displacement.


BTTT for a real answer.

DO IT!!!

Don't come on here crying and blubbing - just DO IT!! :rolleyes: You big girls blouse!

Pete

anyone?

I am thinking of going down the forged route but dont want to loose the 2.0 lit impreza trade mark.

:wonder:

Higher displacement will allow a greater amount of air/fuel into the cylinders but will compromise the ability to rev.

Rite what about bhp/torque i would imagine with the higer displacement the latter would be better?

But why was the type20 faster then the type 25 around the track?

I am looking for abit more detail duhhhh

what i meant was everyone thinks the 2.33ltr is the best but a good 2ltr can be be as good :D look at haldours car ;)

There has been a huge amount of tech debate over all 2/2.33/2.5 conversions (2 litre is where you replace the rods for forged replacements and forged pistons for all 3 conversions) in Projects. you will find a lot of info there.

As a precise though, and based on what i read in those debates:

2 Litre
Needs forged rods/pistons and a few basic mods to make a strong 400+ engine. Ideal is to start with a closed deck early Sti/RA block (not too hard to find.) This keeps the revvy 2 litre trade mark @ 8K rpm.

2.33
Much as the above but needs the 2.2 CDB base, and now very very hard to find the donor engine. Need specialist parts and knowhow to make a really good engine for the 600 bhp targets (twisted turbos and special fuels etc) or a revvy hard running 500 bhp road car.

2.5

Start with the cheap USA Sti short block engine. Replace rods/pistons with forged parts, and many of the mods above. You need at least Sti v3 heads and cams and a TD05 20g turbo. This will make a very high torque engine, about 400 x 450 engine, but lower reving.

All the above will shatter a stock 5 speed box and normal uprated clutches, though the 2.5 in stated mild form will use the AP Organic type clutch.

Of all the above most feel the 2.5 in a 400 x 400+ form coupled to a nice box makes for a fab road car.
For a weekend screeeeemer, then the forged 2 litre is wonderful.( I've read)
The 2 litre is insurance friendly (!)

The 2.33 is the performance best but hard to do due to parts availability.

That's about it, but I'm sure the engine wizzards on here will LOL or worse, but I think I have summed it all up.

Good luck, I've been mulling this all over for a year now, but sticking to my 407 bhp STOCK innards Sti v3.(for now....)
It goes like this:
http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?use...1&ctime=030140

Graham.

As per Graham's post, but just to add.....

2ltr
To get very high power may require more money, when comparing against a 2.33 or 2.5. Reliability may be at question over higher bhp levels, when comparing to larger displacement engines.

2.33ltr
It is possible to take a normal 2ltr block to bore and stroke to 2.33.

2.5ltr
Can rev to 8k+...... but do tend not to have the same BHP band (as regards to higher up the rev range) as a lower capacity engine.

All in all, it's horses for courses and depends what you want the car for and what you want to do with it.

But if you look at what Powerstation has developed for it's Time Attack track car, it tends to make you think as that with it's old engine was a 2.5, circa 450bhp and was doing (shall we say) quite :D well in the Championship.

Regards,
Shaun.

But the pistons would fall out the side of it :D

Ideally you would start with a closed deck 2.0 or 2.2 block for improved strength. On either the closed deck or the "normal" 2.0 block you need to fit cylinder liners.

Andy

Thanks for the info guys.

Andy f you have pm ;)