Running in period - 4000 revs
 

Do you relaly need to only go uo to 4 revs for the first 1000 miles. im going up to 5, but id rather go right up to 7 now

but car has only done 350 miles so far

Does it really matter that i rinse it to 7 or not??:nono:

I don't go to 7k revs with 53k miles on the clock. It's up to you, but bearing in mind the p!$$ thin running-in oil that's in the car any extra stress is going to cause much more damage. Even after the 1k service I'd recommend building the revs slowly, allowing an extra 500rpm each 2k miles. The engine won't come on song until its done over 20k but should last well if run in with care and consideration. If you plan to sell it before it gets above 30k then rag the @r$e out of it if you like.

But then don't sell it on here :nono:

You might regret you posted the 7000 comment if you try to sell the car on here later mate.......... If I was you I would edit it out

Booooom !!!!:D

Rob

You dont say what car you have, but if its a turbo there is not much point going to 7k as the torque will have already fallen off at about 6k. Unless its already been mapped etc and is making more boost etc.

Got the latest STi type UK

My mates FQ 300 goes past 7 and thats flamin fast

you should not go over 3000 rpm for the first 1000 miles and you should disconect the actuater sa well so you dont boost up or your pisstons will not bed in properly :nono: :nono:

well ive blown that then already

ive been well over 4 revs everytime ive gone out


hmmm i might take it easy for the next 600

What a bl*ody muppet! You don't deserve a scoob!

There's various schools of thought to running in, and also reports that the oil initially used is exactly the same as that put in on the 1000mile service.

I know someone who regularly went to around 6k on their car from delivery mileage onwards, ensuring it was properly warmed up etc., and their car doesn't use any oil at all (currently on around 35k).

Comments like "you should disconect the actuater sa well so you dont boost up or your pisstons will not bed in properly" and "What a bl*ody muppet! You don't deserve a scoob!" would appear to be a bit out of control IMHO. :Whatever_

Christ, it's the blind leading the blind!

Watch out for piston bore ovality too - it's the flat 4 layout that does it you know.

Steve

check out the i film video guys

ur missing out if you dont see that one!:norty:

Supeerman Returns tomorrow!"!!!!!!!! hehehehe Iam going to play the original John Barry theme tune full blast outside the cinema:luxhello:

Your mental, you are !!!:cuckoo:

Rob

And for the love of god, don't drive it with spark plugs in! :Whatever_

Before we start I am in no way telling anyone to do or follow this article, its entirely up to you how you break in your new engine.

I have followed this break in procedure on all of my latest builds and have had no problems.

http://64.4.61.250/cgi-bin/getmsg/br...0672ba644719e4

You're the guy who asked how to wash his car? :cuckoo:

This has got to be a wind up :lol:

What are you on drugs:cuckoo:

Check all my posts I dont think youll find anything about washing cars.

no dillop, hes on about bil!!!:lol1: :lol1: he started a thread a few days ago asking how to properly wash his car. got a few "is this a wind up" responces, and then starts this thread. god i hope i never have the pleasure to drive past him somewhere!!!:cuckoo: :cuckoo:

Ah, alls good:lol1: :lol1:

bloody hell, has lewis signed up with another name?:rolleyes:

ive just run in my api engine and i didnt take it over 3500 , just done 1000k miles now so take it up to 4000 / 45000 will be doing oil change and then having some fun! and at least i know ive done it right !

Actually I find myself in agreement! lol :D

Well hello everyone,

Now i know you are all going to read my post count and go hmmmmm, this guy doesnt know much, but being involved running a garage, i do know a little.

As someone posted above, there are 2 schools of thought on running in an engine. First off, there is the traditional 'gentle' break in. In this you will have limited rpms, and limited loads. The idea being that you are letting all the moving parts find their natural 'beds' before you load them heavily.

The gentle bed in is kind to the bottom end, but depending on how your block has been machined and how hard your piston rings are, not great for the bores themselves.

In the second scenario, the 'hard break in' you load the car almost straight away. You pootle about gently for the first 50 miles or so and then you begin the process of pulling the car quite hard (not necisarrily full throttle) through different rpm ranges. You do this to spread the rings, so as to create a good seal between the rings and the walls of the bore and to prevent the machined edges rounding over, so trapping and then forever burning oil. You use varying rpms, and varying loads. For example you may do some pulls from 1500 rpm in third right up to 3000, then say 2000 to 4000, then 3000 to 5000 etc, allowing the engine to slow the car without using the breaks after each pull.

Which is right for your car? Well what does the manufacturer say? Only they know what finnish they put on the cyl walls. Do they bench test the engines before installation in the car (i bet they do, because it isnt going to be the first time that the key gets turned when you drive out of the showroom, and they need to know that the car works first!)

I am running in my rebuilt car right now. I'm using a hybred of the two techniques. Generally i am gentle with it, but every now and again i give it some poke and let it pull quite hard to spread the rings and de-glaze the bores. Now i have fairly heavy crosshatching, so i know i need to do the ring spreading, otherwise i will have a smokey joe for all its life!

Cheers,

Ben.

I have just recently purchased a 06 STi and ran the car exactly as instructed in the manual which states to not take the Revs above 4k (unless in emergency) for the first 1000 miles. During this period after the first 300miles if i was using the car for longer than a 20mile drive after this point i would give it brief sharp acceleration upto this.

I have now passed the 1000 mile mark and after about 30 miles of having the first service have started to use the car in its complete rev range being very careful to rarely hold a rev count about 5k (ie: take it quickly and on full boost to 7k then change to up through to a gears to a gear suitable for 3k cruising.)

I have also recently had the car on a Rolling Road (with 1500 miles on the clock) and it produced 254BHP and around 260lb/ft with an intake temperature of a very warm 31 degrees. Not bad considering the heat for a standard machine in my opinion.

I think the answer to your question lies in your value of £25k.

Essentially whats been posted is teh past several posts is correct:

Low speed and light load speed good for bearings, not so good for bores. High speed heavy load is the opposite.

Bear in mind you can have high speed and light load (i.e first gear held at 5000rpm on flat ground) or heavy load and low speed (labouring...i.e below 2000rpm in 5th or 6th on a incline). The latter being worse for the bottom end, so thinking you staying under 3000rpm is safe in not always the case. :nono:

Other port of call is the engine's cleanliness. Contrary to popular belief a new engine is NOT clean. It has swarf debris from machining and sand left over from the casting process. Now the filter "should" catch all this; But it could clog, become overwhelmed and open the bypass valve. Once this happens your sending unfiltered oil to the bearing salong with any remaining debris. When is this most likely to happen? When the engine is at high speeds, as the oil pump will be flowing much greater volumes and pressure. If the engine is also under high load, then this debris can deeply scour or become permanentally embedded in bearing surfaces, reducing their lifespan.

Thats a very good call on the cleanliness issue.

Personally, for my Hybred technique i am also employing a frequent oil change policy. You might think its overkill, but i think its right.

First start (remember this is a brand new NEVER started motor, not one from the factory) ran it for 20 mins at a fast idle. Dropped the oil and filter then replaced.

First 50 miles, gentle, then another oil change.

Next 150 miles, gentle with a bit of poke/coast down, increasing rpms and load gradually, but still no WOT, then another oil change.

I will do two more changes then, 1 at 500 miles and 1 at 1000 miles.

I'm using mineral 10w40 to run in on (it isnt a scoob). I will switch to full synthetic at 1000 miles.

On a new car, i'm pretty sure the thing will have been run up in the engine plant and prolly is on its 2nd or 3rd set of oil when it reaches the showroom.

Cheers,

Ben.

:D Right on! Bil has some quality threads - he is a real funny guy:

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=529086
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=529635

Here's a novel idea: How about doing it in accordance with Subaru's instructions? They built the car, afterall! :D

Further to all that's been written already, I have been told by a main dealer engine builder that new big end shells are initially quite soft metal and that the run in period, the alternate hot and cold, and the slow speed build allows the crank to bed into the shells and for them to then harden and temper in the heating and cooling periods to the shape and rotational pattern of the crank...