3 port boost solinoid piping
 

Is this the correct way to pipe a 3 port boost solinoid?


Top hose to turbo compressor side (from the turbo side - larger bore pipe, into reducer, smaller pipe to boost solinoid?

Middle hose to actuator

Bottom to air box resinator


PLEASE help ASAP as the car is outside with bonnet up!!!!

Is this reducer from the turbo to the solinoid normal?

Cheers Nick.

plumbing is correct yes.

As to the reducer - depends on the pipe diameters but should have no effect on running anyway.. the top hose connection on the 3port is smaller than the others and is mostlikely smaller than the compressor cover connections (depending on turbo) hence the larger pipe and reducer.

You got the boost delivery you wanted now?

Simon :D

Simon -

It still spikes! I'm at my wits end! This boost creep is so annoying, hitting the fuel cut in high gears. I did think that replacing all the vacuum hoses would help as some of the old ones were hard and not as tight as they should have been!

Took it out last night and it hit fuel cut again! I'm beginning to think it may be the actuator is wrongly set???? What do you think?

What do I do next??:confused: Try a bigger restrictor in the bottom boost solinoid hose??

Is it boost creep or overboost? If you connect the pipe from the compressor cover directly to the actuator and go for a run does the boost remain stable @ ~0.5bar or does it continue to rise from 5k rpm onwards?
If it doesn't I would think you are seeing overboost due the increased load in higher gears which could require the boost solenoid duty cycle in the map being altered to suit (You have a chip?)

Cheers

what Del said.. you are going to have to comprimise somewhere to stop it hitting fuel cut in the higher gears.. you could try winding the actuator out half a turn at a time until it stops but it will undoubtable hamper the spool slightly.
Different size restrictor might be an alternative.
Does it have a twin dump downpipe on it?

Alternative is a bleed valve, electronic boost controller* or a remap..

* more expensive than bleed valve and unlikely to work is bleed valve doesn't.

Simon

I'll try this when I get the car back from the GF tonight. Will the CEL illuminuate as the solionid isn't seeing boost?

I am running a chip, however, the car was doing this before I fitted the chip. I thought the chip might have stooped this as it raised the fuel cut level.

Simon - it has an open mouth 3" downpipe

Is my orifice hole too big or too small then!!!!?

The CEL should not illuminate as long as the map sensor remains electrically & pneumatically connected.
You may have raised the fuel cut level with the chip but the boost target afaik is around 16psig which is close to the map sensors full scale ;)

Cheers

you want the orrifice bigger on a 3port set up iirc.. might be worth taking the restrictor out and seeing how it responds too.

Just to confirm -

I take out the pipe from the compressor side of the turbo (located on the elbow) and connect that to the actuator? Is this correct??

Thanks for all this info Delboy2 & Simon, appriciated;)

I'll try this out tonight and post back, fingers crossed!!!! I've heard it might not boost very much, just have to try it I suppose!

This is really :brickwall !!!!!

Yes correct.

No, samaller restrictor/orrifice on the 3-port as the orrifice is in the return pipe i.e making the Boost control soelnoid (electronic bleed valve) bleed less air away from actuator.

Therefore, Smaller restrictor/orrifice = less boost on 3-port

On a 2-port the orrifice is in the actuator/turbo pipe, so a smaller orrifice restricts what the actuator see's, so more boost is produced.

Therefore, Smaller restrictor/orrifice = more boost on 2-port

oops.. yep muddling 2port.. you can tell I am off ill this week.. doh!

Simon

Any Exuse ;)
I suppose you gonna be off work tommorrow then. No point in just coming in for the 1 day now is there ;)....

now that would be silly..

Hurry up and get well soon Simon,as its that time again ;)

okay Daz just for you.. lol

YHPM on Hants site Simon,and empty your PM box ;)

I have just replaced my PC and google doesn't bring up the hants site??

doing my head in..

Simon

lol.. search all Scooby-tc's posts on here for Hants and found it.. ;)

OK then, I've adjusted the actuator by 1 turn (making the arm longer) , but , the problem is still there.

When I took the arm off the wastegate level (??) it was very loose, i.e. that the arm just fell on to the level. I thought I read somewhere that you should have to pull the actuator arm slightly to get it over the lever and then put the C clip on? Is this right?

Mine at the mitute would need the arm making shorter by quite a few turns to achieve this. Anyone? Please help as the car is outside with the bonnet up ready!

Thanks,

Nick.

Just turned the actuator arm so the arm is shorter and it is a snug fit over the wastegate lever and the boost control is terrible! All over the palce!

Going to lengthen it again, but to how much????? Man this is annoying!!!!!

:( :confused: :brickwall

Me still thinks you have a leak somewhere then, as it's obviously over-achieving boost for some reason.

Actuator should ideally be slightly tigh i.e tug it to fit it. That way it stays closed longer and aids a better spool time.

So somebody has fiddled with the length of the actuator arm at some point then? It hits fuel cut more when the actuator arm is a tight fit and boost is all over the place, rather than the arm being longer, is this normal?

I've left it as a tight fit, so next on my list is try to fit a smaller holed restrictor in the bottom boost solinoid pipe, hopefully this will fix the problem.

What happens if this doesn't fix the problem? Port the wastegate?

Thanks guys!

Nick.

You shouldn't have to port anything, because it shouldn't be doing it with your limited modifications.

That's what Alyn told me at AS performance as well! Just so annoyed at this bloody fuel cut, it's so annoying! Going to lengthen the actuator arm tomorrow and order a smaller holed orifice at the same time. I'll post back once I've fitted the smaller orifice in the next couple of days.

Anybody else had this problem?????????

Just a thought? How could I check that the actuator is running OK? Could this be the problem?

connect the turbo direct to the actuator.
you should only see anout 0.7bar, or there abouts.

See if you get boost creep like this.

Cheers Scott! I'll try that. If I see boost creep, does this narrow it done to what the problem might be?

Thanks;)