Sigma Alarm Window Closer
 

I have a WRX Sportwagon MY06 with a standard alarm (Sigma M30 I assume having read other posts) I would like to fit a window closer to the alarm. Is it a DIY job or best left to professionals. If it is DIY is where can I buy one ? Are there any wiring diagrams / instructions available :freak3:

First the good news...

The UK standard fit M30 (99>06MY) does have an output that can be used to operate total closure systems. The output can be turned on by entering *17856*07*1# into the keypad in the usual way.
Once this has been done, then when the Radio Key button remains pressed on arming a low current negative output is produced on wire 4.

Now the not so good....

1. Although the M30 produces this output on wire 4, this will be an empty pin on your alarm plug from late 2001 MY on, as all the unused wires were removed when the factory integrated the alarm harness into the vehicle's wiring loom. Not too much of a problem, as it is a common "Molex" terminal, so a length of wire can be inserted to access the output.

2. The output itself is only low current, ie it cannot power window motors itself, but is intended to switch other units. Unfortunately, Subaru vehicles do not have a "Total Closure Circuit" built in, so the output has to be used to activate a separate "Window Closure Module" which can power the windows directly.

Now for the choices...

A. I would recommend the Sigma AC22M closure unit for use with the M30 system, although one unit is required of each pair of windows (although I would!!) - the reason being for safety;when the radio key button is released with this unit the window lifts stop - its not a "walk away" feature.
This prevents trapped necks, but more importantly prevents burnt out window motors if the vehicle is not equiped with window motors with in-built "thermal trips".

B. If it is this "press & walk away" feature you are looking for then you will need another manufacturer's window lift module - I would recommend the Toad module in this case, and wire 3 should be used (instead of 4, although the empty pin still applies) without the programming desribed above. This wire then supplies a low current negative continually whilst the alarm is armed.
If this option is persued however, the windows will always attempt to close whenever the alarm is armed - it is for this reason I recommend the Toad unit as it has a built in "Thermal Trip" that stops the module from continuing to close the windows once they are fully closed, or if already up.
Other manufacturer's units can also be used inthis way on wire 3, provided that they can be switched from this negative output and that they incorporate a "Thermal Trip" to prevent window motor damage.
This type of unit also usually can power all 4 windows from just one unit.


Hope thats some help, but be aware which type of operation you would prefer. Due to the nature of the installation I would recommend an alarm specialist tackled the job rather than take it on yourself.

SS