Which MAF for Impreza with a Z4 ecu
I have an UK spec Impreza with a few normal mods and fitted it with a Z4 ecu, it hasnt started or run right since i fitted the ecu but what code should the MAF have on it for use with the Z4? As I think I may need to change it
Thanks in advance |
It should be fine, green labelled MAF I don't have the part number to hand. What are the symptoms of "not running right" and have you changed ANYTHING else at the same time like induction kit, dumpvalve etc?
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Originally Posted by Zen Performance
It should be fine, green labelled MAF I don't have the part number to hand. What are the symptoms of "not running right" and have you changed ANYTHING else at the same time like induction kit, dumpvalve etc?
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I have fitted a Z4 to standard UK with no probs, everything else original. I did have some starting problems but that was down to my car not liking Tesco 99! Perhaps a knackered ECU.
Does the car still run perfect with Standard ECU fitted? |
Originally Posted by vessy
I have fitted a Z4 to standard UK with no probs, everything else original. I did have some starting problems but that was down to my car not liking Tesco 99! Perhaps a knackered ECU.
Does the car still run perfect with Standard ECU fitted? Any ideas? |
According to the manual both should be 950-1250 ohms.
What's the starting problem like? fails to start? Mine when cold would start but run at about 500revs, if you touched the throttle it would stall out, like it was running lean then after 5-10 secs it would climb to normal cold idle around 1400, would also drive like it was running lean for first couple of mins, we thought it was tesco 99 causing the problems but now i think i have a low fuel pressure issue that i'm just starting to rectify. |
It sounds like you are getting a load related misfire, caused by failing coilpacks resulting in the hesitancy at 4500rpm (peak torque or there abouts). The starting may be linked to the coilpacks, but if it's a pain to start, I would check the cam timing is correct, you can do this just by removing the crank sensor and one of the cambelt covers (preferably the pass side one). Check that the when the mark on the crank wheel (the one inside the covers) lines up with the mark on the oil pump, that the cam wheel mark lines up with the mark on the rear cambelt cover.
The poor running off boost may be a function of the K&N induction kit, I would try refitting the normal airbox as a test. Paul |
FYI, i checked my cam/crank sensors today, both are 2.1k ohms, way above what the book says, crank is brand new!! perhaps they have improved them and the resistance has changed.
Didn't want you replacing both because yours read the same!! |
Originally Posted by vessy
According to the manual both should be 950-1250 ohms.
What's the starting problem like? fails to start? Mine when cold would start but run at about 500revs, if you touched the throttle it would stall out, like it was running lean then after 5-10 secs it would climb to normal cold idle around 1400, would also drive like it was running lean for first couple of mins, we thought it was tesco 99 causing the problems but now i think i have a low fuel pressure issue that i'm just starting to rectify. |
Just checked my cam sensor that was 1086 ohms and the cranks sensor was 1094 ohms which sounds like they are pretty much perfect. As you have a manual does it say anything about checking MAF sensors in there? As this is my other concern and about the only sensor on the engine I havent checked. Also where did you get the manual from ive been looking for one for ages with no luck
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