Classic tuning advice - just starting out
 

Ok having bought a Classic its pretty much standard apart from an STi back box and an STi panel filter.

Here is my proposed plans for mods and i would like any pointers or suggestions, or in fact any comments if i am going the wrong way.

bearing in mind i need to keep to a budget:lol1: (ha) and dont want to spend thousands

1. braking and handling,

Black Diamond disc's with predator pads, Eibach Springs and 17" wheels and tyres (i currently have 16") if possible i would like to buy these secondhand as i am buying for performance rather than looks.

2. Engine: Sti panel filter (already have) Milltek 3" centre and back box (are these too loud??) i want something a bit deeper but not something to wake teh dead, i have heard good reports about Milltek.

And finally a re-map???? this stumps me do i get my existing ecu re-mapped and if so where from? or do i get a new one??

Any advice greatfully recieved

Thanks:thumb:

A full de-cat exhaust system makes a major difference to the power and to the way the car drives.
Lots of the exhausts from different manufacturers will match up to one another, but exactly what matches what, I don't know.
I have a Magnex and it sounds about right for me. All depends what you want and what the neighbours will put up with. My car is a wagon, so I didn't want it too noisy.......they get a bit more resonance than the saloons. I personally love the Afterburner Vortex back boxes, but daren't buy one incase it's too loud. I'm hoping to lend one at some point.....just to try you know!
3" pipes are only really required once you start upping the power above about 350Bar....that's fairly major expenditure on a UK classic. Below that, 2 1/2" pipes are fine (by all accounts)

Re-mapping depends on your model year. If you've bought (like I did) a 1997/98 car, then you're basically stumped for ECU work. Power Engineering are just about the only people that do anything with this year of ECU, other than that, you are looking at a replacement/aftermarket one like a Power FC, or similar.
If you have a pre 1997 car, then I think ScoobyECU can help. If it's a 1999/2000 car, then Ecutek is probably the best bet and many Scoobs on here have used that method.

An electronic boost controller can also be useful, but if your car is standard UK, then you'll be limited to about 1.1 bar or so due to fuel cut (limits maximum boost.....cuts fuel off if it sees higher and it's not a nice experience).
Want to go above 1.1 bar or so (which you will) then you'll have to buy a fuel cut defender. This will allow you to raise your boost level somewhat.
I currently run at about 1.35 to 1.4 bar and the car is hugely different to standard.

VERY IMPORTANT ITEM.........I'd say one of the first things to fit prior to altering the boost at all......Fit a Knocklink!!

I'm sure you will find Scoobynet a massive source of information, I know I have! Good luck and have fun.

I know people will correct me if I'm wrong with any of the above. ;)

Carl, heres some links to various websites so that you can look around and get some prices. You should have mentioned that you have a MY99.

http://www.scoobymania.com/
http://www.powerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/subaru.htm
http://www.xtremescoobies.co.uk/
http://www.tsl-motorsport.co.uk/index1.html
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/
http://www.scoobyparts.com
http://www.subaru.org.uk/
http://www.milsport.co.uk/
http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/ (for your brakes)
http://www.flat4online.co.uk
http://www.brdevelopments.com

Just a couple :thumb: to start you with ! !

Dont forget about getting some braided hose lines, a cheap mod but worth it.

I'd have to agree with Marty about the 2.5" exhaust pipe, I read something awhile ago and it said 2.5" is fine.

Maybe a uprated anti-roll bar and anti-lift kit instead of springs.:wonder:
Actually, ignore that last comment. There is toooo many possibilities when it comes to handling on a scoob.

Cheers Paul:thumb:

I'd start with the following

Handling
1/ Solid droplinks for the ARBs.
2/ Whiteline ALK
3/ 24mm adjustable rear ARB
4/ Change the springs.

If you don't do anything else then at least get the alignment setup correctly - it makes a massive difference.

You don't say which of the classics you have - if it is pre 97 then you could get a reasonable upgrade by changing to the later 4pot calipers.

For the engine, martyrobertsdj has covered most of the reasonably priced options. I'd also add a LambdaLink or similar if you are going to do much to the breathing.

Matthew

Matthew - i would do all that but i really do n3eed to keep to a budget, also would my local garage be able tro fit this stuff and do you think i'd be able to negotiate a discount if i did it all at once

Cheers:thumb:

Get a manual and try doing a lot of this stuff yourself. save a lot of cash and know it was done right!

I try and do all my work on my car, takes a bit longer but i know that everything that was done to it.

G.

What about my proposed brake upgrades??? Black Diamond - anyone with any experience with them???

I recently changed my brakes, I looked at quite a few options...some expensive such as the Brembo caliper upgrade. In the end I went for Ferodo semi racing pads (FS2500 I think). These alone make a huge difference in eliminating the brake fade. I put these on front and back. I also changed all the disks for vented and grooved. ( Don't get cross drilled! ) I also changed the hoses for steel braded, these certainly firm up the pedal feel. The grooved disks have a tendancy to be noisy at low speed, but the improvement in braking, particularly in wet conditions is awesome. I don't worry about stopping now, but with the Standard set up I had a few hairy moments.
Probably best to have a look on the site for comments on Black Diamond, personally I have no experience, but my recommendation is to upgrade the brakes before increasing performance.

Well i agree i am sorting the handling and braking before any performance increase, getting some 17" wheels and tyres and the Eibach springs and the discs sorting - then i can look at getting a little more go:norty:

All the suspension stuff except alignment is easy to do yourself so long as you have a set of axle stands. Links are one bolt at each end of the link, ARBs are 4 bolts plus the one to attach to the link.

Fitting the ALK is a bit fiddlier as getting the large nut on the end of the wishbone undone can be a pain in the confined space under the car, but again it is easy to do at home.

If you don't want to pay too much for alignment then you could probably find a local tyre fitting place with laser alignment equipment - the sort that gives you a printout of all the angles. If you look around on here you should be able to find the Prodrive settings (or a whole set of other options) and get them to set the car up to those.

Matthew

Whiteline ALK - What is this, got a link?

cheers :)

Article on the kit - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...on_rails_3.pdf
Main Whiteline Site - http://www.whiteline.com.au

What year and mileage is it Chief?

I have a circa 360 bhp classic.
The best advice I can give you is as follows:
Brakes without doubt I would recommend the ferodo DS2500 Pads above all els. They are expensive but they are by far the best pad out there dont be fooled by any of the EBC red stuff nonsense you read. Been there done that.

As for induction unless you are going for lots of power then I wouldnt bother as some induction kits result in Maf problems especially if yours is a 1999 model. A good option here for a reasonalbe gain is a Greens or an ITG replacement panel filter. Although I have gone with an APS cold air kit replacing the K&N filter on the end with a Quickshift racing steel mesh filter. Although this had fitted and then the car had to be remapped.

Exhaust wise I would recommend a tubular manifold the Rogerclark Motorsport offering pretty good. A group A decat down pipe and for something thats not too noisy you might want to try TSL's group N back box or something similar although I have their firestorm which is very loud

As for mapping that depends on your year of manufacture. My advice would always be give Andy Forrest www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk a call.

I have had both ecutek mapping of my standard ECU and now run an Apexi power FC. I have to say the latter is awesome. You may have to start thinking about a fuel pump and bigger injectors at this stage.

Most of all though look after it, warm it up and cool it down properly regularly check the oil atleast once per week. Always use super unleaded minimum. Most folks on here use Optimax me included. I think BP Ultimate is the biggest load of cack going btw.
No top end thrashing for sustained periods your engine WILL go bang. As for nailing it between bends scoobs love that.

Hope thats a useful insight.

Daz

its a MY99 and about 62000 now!!!

You don't say what type of driving you will be doing and yet everyone is giving you advice!

Let me know and also your budget? It would also help to know where abouts in the country you are?

F

When most of the smacs had classics we were all running similar setups.

Start with the brakes, I take it they are 4 pots.
I had black diamond drilled and grooved disks with mintex 1155 pads, now have ecb redstuff and standard disks- both set ups are good.

Suspension, kyb ajustable shocks, eibach springs, uprated droplinks, geometry setup and 17inch alloys.

Engine wise, sti filter, full decat and ecutek remap to approx 280bhp.

You can go silly try to chase bhp figures, but the above proved a good setup for fast road and track use.

To be honest mate i'm not really bothered about chasing massive horsepower - i've heard that over 280bhp requires a bigger turbo anyway and to be honest i'd rather have more midrange and have my turbo spool up quicker to make it a faster point to point car than a quarter mile special.

i've not really thought about drop links or coil overs - yet just the Eibach springs, i'm hoping this will be sufficient for the time being with my 17" alloys (that i will be hopefully be buying shortly) amd ,my black diamond disc's.

What would you recommend exhaust wise? i have been thinking of a Milltek one - would this be too loud?

Cheers:thumb:

Chiefly one!

Milltek isn't too loud. Chris' is only slightly louder than PPP one.

I had a Magnex on my classic and it was just right.......not too loud, but loud enough. Ask Chris about his BPM Twister.............that was TOO LOUD!

As you are now a SMACS member i'd be happy to help fit anything you buy at my gaff. Got a roll cab full of tools and did all the work on my 320bhp classic. Have also done all sorts for other SMACS members.

Cheers fell i might take you up on that one - i'll make it worth your while mate!!!!:thumb:

I remember Chris's old exhaust, went on the Peak Tour with Gillp95 and fook me it was a bit loud!

BTW did you get 320bhp out of the standard turbo???:notworthy

Like you said save money and get most of the parts second hand. Exhaust wise, H+S are very good. I've got a TSL group A downpipe straight through to an afterburner.
Get a remap of your existing ecu (tek3), Andy F is the man.
Exhaust, filter and remap will see around 280bhp with turbo spool up at just over 2000rpm and bags of midrange grunt.
If your disks aren't knackerd just change uprate the pads, standard disks are just as good.
You should be able to get an exhaust system for around £250-£300
Remap is aound £600
Ajustable shocks are only £320, droplinks £50,springs £130.

Afraid not mate!

VF35 turbo, walbro fuel pump, adjustable reg. and a busket full of other stuff.

Standard TD04 won't get past 280bhp ish.

Well if i get 280bhp i'd be chuffed to bits - i bet 320bhp in a classic is a giggle though