suspension
 

hello,

I have a KW V1 coil-overs, it can only adjust the height.
I have the car a little bit lowered, I like the handling, but when I turn hard the front wheels rub the fenders inside...
I don't want to change the height of the car, so, do you think I can solve this problem with Whiteline front and rear ARB, or, I have to replace the KW V1 with coil-overs that can adjust the bound and rebound?


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...10_19_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...10_22_full.jpg

If the car is on 17's then that is about 25mm lower than most go.
I ask what tyre section you have, 205 x45 or what?
If you have fat tyres then that is probably the issue not ride height.
If the tyres rub at low (car park) speed on lock then no roll bar change will help you.
If the issue happens when blatting down a country lane with 4 up then a Whiteline set-up will do wonders for you, but you will eventually still get the rubbing, just at a faster speed!

Graham.

Hi,

now I use 205/45/17 but I used 215/40/17 and the problem was the same...

...well... not the same... but I couldn't have it lowered like this...

What wheels do you have then, more over, what off set?
I have P1 wheels with 205 x 17 x 45 section and very modified suspension and never had a problem of this sort at all, but it is not that low...
http://tinypic.com/j76bl4.jpg

Graham

I have OZ superleggera, offset 48.
If I have mine like yours, I have no problem, but I like it more lowered... I think I have to quit this silly ideas and raise it about 10mm... if that doesn't work, I raise it more 10 mm until it's ok.
before the scooby I had a seat leon with KW V2, I had it in the softer setting, used RH rims 8x17 ET 30 with 225/45/17 tires and it was lowered like the scooby and I hadn't these problem. It also had a KW front ARB, that's why I thought I could install the whiteline ARB to solve the rubbing problem...

Yours looks really nice.

You should be fine with those wheels, so it probably is the ride height.
Any lower than mine and the drive shafts can 'pop' out of the hubs/rear diff on full suspension compression so beware!

Every time you raise the car the geometry changes, and sometimes enough to make quite a difference, especially the rear toe angle, but when your car is high enough not to rub you may want to get it re-aligned.

While you are at it add a 22mm Whiteline REAR antiroll bar with the drop links in the middle of the 3 holes and life will be far far more entertaining!
A Very Good Mod.

At the risk of boring you, this is the real use of the car, and no tyre rubbing at all:
http://jusspress.com/daymainframe.ph...102&imageNum=3

Graham.

hi my scooby 95wrx is sat pretty low from when i bought it no idea how low or how it got there don't think that many people can argue that having it low looks better makes u feel good when people say how nice it looks however how embarrasing is it if they ask for a lift in it , i'm buggered anyone in the bk and its 30mph everywhere and everytime u turn a bend i have to turn the stereo up more to drown out the scrapping... so i'm in the market for a decent set up tein flex coilovers look favorite if i can find a decent price i think yours 911 sits quite nice especially as i think its helped by the colour offthe wheel what set up have u got on yours as well as the coilovers what other bits and bobs are worth doing as i fancy getting into trackdays as well i only use it as a second car so comfort can be sacrificed a tad cheers chris

Pugs:
For what you want out of the car, ie track/road/fun (good combination!)

In order of importance
Phase 1:
Rear anti roll bar, 22mm, and steel drop links
Good condition suspension with 25mm lower springs(Sti grade only)
Camber bolts all round
Ace geometry set-up by someone who knows what they are doing
Decent tyres

Phase 2 (you will get bored with the above)
Add
AST coil overs with 50/40 N/mm springs
Noltec top mounts in front
Bump steer mod on steering rack
Front 22mm roll bar
Decent racing seat and 4 point set belt

Phase 3 (because there is more to come)
Add
Rear lower radius arms
Full Powerflex bushes to replace the rubber bushes everywhere, but everywhere
Rear subframe lock kit
Rear diff lock kit
Hard steering rack bushes
Very very good high wear rate tyres (6 K miles max)
Front lower subframe brace
60/50 N/mm springs
Radical geometry set-up by Powerstation's Curtis.

With all the above you will be amazed.
Phase 3 is a bit hardcore ( :D )
Lots of people are using Phase 3

Graham.

cheers 911 thats exactly the sort of thing i wanted good to know it in stages cause i don't have massive budgets to work on so thank u can't believe there is so much i can do with it learning all the time`,gone are the days off just lowering my old peugeot 40mm on spax and being happy.. well as happy as u can be with a pug
thanx again i'll be bothering u for my tuning stages next:notworthy

No probs, happy to help.
Graham
:D

Graham,

Of phase 3, would there be any particular order these should be completed? I have phase 1, phase 2 is going to be ordered (well, AST and Noltec), and phase 3 would be 'lacking' at the moment.

The car is daily use (me only!) and trackday use (primary focus!)

Thanks

Neil

sorry, to add...

In phase 2 I am not sure about the harness/seat. I understand the value of a well fitting seat (I have endurance go-kart racing experience) but am dubious about the safety aspect in a non-caged car (probably paranoia though!). Also fitting 4 point harnesses will be difficult in a daily driver - so would rather focus on the suspension/alignment hardware - virtually ignoring issues from NVH (within reason - I am not planning a straight-cut gearbox!)

The car (MY02 WRX) is at 280 ish bhp, and runs on Toyo R888 track day tyres.

Thanks

Neil

IMO:
No, I think they all fit together as a package.
The Phase III is about making it all stiffer and sod the comfort ( :D )

The poly bushes averywhere, subfram tied down all the way to the rack mountings all come together.
I did my chassis in these phased and III is the only way. The 50/40 springs are notably softer than the 60/50 on the road but magic on the track where it counts.

Graham.

I learnt a BIG lesson about seats in my 911 when i stuffed it hill climbing at the notorious Shelsley Walsh some years ago.
When you are really having a go in the car you really do use the 'seat of your pants' to sense what's going on. In a stock comfortable seat designed for 8 stone ladies to 16 stone plus boy racers you will wallow and bounce about .
A real racing seat is a very snug fit (surprisingly comfortable when adjusted right) so you are 'as one' with the car.

Secondly, the 4 point harness.
You keep the stock belt for day to day, and use the 4 point for the serious stuff. MoT man will be ok as long as it is in good condition.

The Phase 3 chassis will allow very hard cornering I promise.
ps: The racing seat can be mounted on Impreza runners if you try to allow your loved one(s) to drive the car if you dare. :D

Fit a cage if you are serious, it DOES make sense, I've seen the result of crashes with and without....

Bigbrakes:
Are you racing on the midlands hill in 2006?
When you say lowered to 63 cm where are you measuring, presumably the front wheel arch. Are you on 16's?

At this rate there will be a 1000 Imprezas after my blood in April...:norty:

Graham