Inlet manifold and head porting and polishing
 

How do you go about this? i presume that you need a lot of time and a dremmel type of affair?

How do the heads come away from the bottom end anyway? are they easily removed in one go?

Matching up of the inlet manifold to the heads is possible with a dremmel or similiar, but if you are doing a full on head job you require more specialised kit. I use a full range of air and electric die grinders, with different tools and extension bits to reach into the ports, and to get a acceptable finish.

the heads, obviously you have to remove the engine, cams, etc before unbolting them. then you also need to remove all the valves etc

hi neilo im in the middle of doing my heads im using a kit from demon tweaks and iv found it to be very good here a link to the kit i got

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...code=MSD260001

and here a link on how to

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

hope this helps

matt

i have not used the deemon tweeks kit. it maybe ok for a little bit of tidying up as it looks to me its just abrasive bits, but to do a proper job around the seats (which are tough steel alloys) you will need cutting tools, and also to reach in the full port depth you will need extensions.

here is the kit i use. the abrasive bits and the scotchbrite are only used for finishing, the carbide burrs do the meat of the work.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00287.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00289.jpg

and what you are after doing..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00293.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00294.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSC00296.jpg

now thats how you do porting nice work p1mark . i must admit im only doing a bit of smothing out because i dont like the idea of grinding the valve seats lol ill post pics up of what iv done to mine as soon as i get a chance



matt

here how i got on with the demon tweeks kit i got

http://images3.fotopic.net/?iid=yeyz...800&quality=70
http://images5.fotopic.net/?iid=yeyz...800&quality=70

p1mark i would be interest in your views on how iv done as this is my first time doing this thanks

matt

For some reason your clicky isnt working for me.

The link you put up for 'how to' is not bad actually. first you should realise that standard ports are good for 500bhp so unless you are pushing that you are not gonna get massive gains. every little bit does help though.

for a 'road' job and without access to a flow bench (thats all it is on mine really) just concentrate on tidying things up. the closer you are to the combustion chamber the more effective the work is. if your kit allows smooth the roof and floor of the port into the seat and all the way up to and into the 30deg seat angle.

where the seats are pressed in, you will always get a ridge on the floor, just work on radiussing it all in. from the inlet side just clean all the casting splits up, knife edge the bridge, tidy up around the valve guide boss or remove it as i have.

This is my first scoob head, and its a bit new as its not as critical with FI as it is with NA. normally work on supersport and superbike race engines, where everything is far more important and half the time you end up welding the ports up and totally reshaping them, but you need a flow bench for this.

while your heads are in bits, its well worth having a go though!

scoobynutt,

your pics work ok at home;)

yeah, looks like you have just cleaned it all up, took the split lines out etc. thats ok, every little helps but if they are still off have a little go working from the other end. dont worry if you clip a 45 on the seat with them abrasive bits.. the worst you will have to sort is the seats cutting which isnt mega expensive. you may just get away with lapping them in at home though.

main things are (bet you have found this already) get comfortable, get a good light shining through the ports, turn the radio off and tell the missus to only bother you if she wants to make you a cup of tea:D

thanks for the tips p1mark ill have a go at doing some work on the other end to :)

matt

That looked like a dentists table P1MARK lol amazing results. Is it a simple air ratchet set you have there to do it with ?

Chris.

the main thing i use for the chomping out is the big green makita electric die grinder. i have wired it into a sewing machine controller to give it variable speed. use the carbide burrs and extensions in this. a little squirt of WD40 or breakfree stops the tooling clogging up.

the 2 kobe air die grinders i use with the emery rolls to get a rough finish and smooth the inevitable ploughed field you get from the big makita. the purple pencil mini air die grinder and the small 90 deg electric one i use in the valve seat/throat area and combustion chambers.

if you are doing a head for a customer they like to see a nice finish (even though its not really required and can sometimes hinder beneficial 'tumble' of the mixture) so i use the scotchbrite strips (brillo pad if you like) in a split shaft in the big die grinder to get it looking like the pics. the other big help is the adjustable bench i have made, you can get to everywhere without craning your neck.

I have access to a flow bench, so any new heads i sort out on there. once you have done a few of a particular model you know what you are after and dont really need it. didnt bother with my scoob heads as its just for the road. they look nice but still very similiar in shape/size/profile to o.e.

Would be intersting to do a before and after comaprison with subaru heads on a flow bench, just to see what sort of difference the P&P realy makes. It would also be interesting to comapre a few different MY's of head design to see which ones really work better.

Mark,

Where do you buy your burrs and bit with the long shanks?

I need some longer ones with 6mm shank for my die grinder.

Cheers for any help,

Wayne.

i have the cylinder heads ported and polished on my car but not the inlet manifold as i read on NASIOC that there was little gains to be had from it !!

What's to be gained from doing this?

Blimey this is back from the dead!

You can get the burrs with the long shanks but i hate them. they are very unstable and you have to use them at a low speed otherwise they grab and leave chatter marks.

if you look close at the pics, you can see i have made extensions out of 8MM cold rolled bar. turn the collett end down to 6mm, then drill and ream the other end 6mm and solder your burr in. miles better than the long shanked bits.

As for porting the inlet manifold - every little bit helps and its all the little bits that make your engine that little bit better than the others. Have a look at Floyds project thread in here and the attention to detail he has spent throughout the whole inlet system in matching things up - and the results it gave him