Coolant expansion bottle leak.........idea !!!!
 

My plastic tank has sprung a leak on my 94WRX. I need a metal replacement but they are hard to find. So i was thinking........... my tank has no obvious spilts in it, it seems to have become porous with age. If i take it off, clean it, and paint it with hammerite (drying it in a warm oven) - would it solve the leak for the time being.

I also thought about swilling the inside with rad-weld and letting it dry.

Any thoughts.

You can get a plastic genuine one for £60.
Best bet I think

Willy

DO NOT USE RAD WELD IN YOUR SCOOBY! it will make a mess of the insides. its nasty bodge job stuff.

stew

you can get hold of one at grade a subaru

i need a new one myself because the pipe broke off the tank this morning

coolant everywhere really f**ked off.

£60 +vat

scoobypeterpump

Get one of the alloy ones from a newer Scoob and make up an adaptor plate. :)

Problem solved permanantly.

Couple of years ago i had my graphite tank let go at the seam. Did some running repairs on the thing until i sourced a new tank. As it happened i got mine from Grade A Subaru spares. This was a new age alloy tank. £50 iirc. Made some alloy brackets to mount the tank to manifold. Apart from this slight mismatch it's a far better tank. Certainly will never leak again. Even took the trouble to spray the thing up before i put it back on the car.

LOL...seems Subaru US are filling the 2.5l Sti cars with a form of conditioner which appears to be very similar and do the same job as rad weld from now on to help head gasket problems.

Tony.

Perhaps John Banks should know about this. His 2.5 has had head gasket problems running 400bhp/400lbsft!

Stuart ;)

Have to agree, rad weld in the system not a good idea. The water gallerys in the rad and the heater matrix are very small and can quite easly get bunged up. Also some of the pipe work from the header tank is rather on the small side again could block.

I do know about it Stuart, but I doubt it alone is a solution to running the EJ257 at silly power, I think it is just the wrong engine to do it to. My problems were running I would estimate about 480/460 on the second setup, and about 450/450 on the first, both with NF and methanol and lots of timing and boost, and at sustained high speed.

Thanks for the replies.

I was thinking more of a quick fix by painting with Hammerite, to last me until I get a new one. Also 'Radweld' - i was going to just swill out the tank with it whilst off the car and dry it in a warm oven.

any thoughts

how about washing up bottle and a little sticky back plastic???:cuckoo:

Forge do a nice, shiny metal replacement for the early models. I just had to replace my after a little mishap. I even insulated it from the inlet manifold with some rubber washers between the tank and the manifold and also between the bolt and the tank. It probably won't do much but those header tanks get really hot!

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/phil.ha...oob/header.jpg

Felix, is your tank one of those with the nice looking chrome strip around the edge?

Had the very same tank on my version2 STi a few years ago. It decided to leak out the seam once the pressure in the system had built up. Didn't leak much just enough to be a tad embarrasing once you came to a stop at traffic lights.
I nursed the system for a week or so until a replaced the tank.

Once the system pressure had dissipated and cooled down a bit i simply used a super glue around the edge of the seam. I found the two part glue pack to be best. Just apply the the resin first around the seam then using the accelerater spray, spray over the top. In seconds the glue dries hard and forms a resonable seal. Over the week or so i did have to reapply the glue several times to steam the flow, but it did work.