What management for classic on a budget..
 

Hi Guys
I have a high mileage '94 UK Wagon with ScoobyECU. Apparently pushes out between 260 and 280 bhp (@ 1.1bar) with Magnex centre decat and backbox although no dyno runs to back this up so don't know for sure. I'm told it has the TD05 turbo.

Some days it feels more like 120hp... :-( I am having numerous (intermittent) and so far untraceable problems with Det. and the car is so moody it takes the pleasure of driving away - i.e. One minute it is very responsive and pulls like a Concorde (well you know what I mean) and the next it feels flat and very lethargic. Fuel consumption varies between 21mpg and 28mpg for no apparent reason and regardless of my driving style... Also boost is all over the place sometimes and then no problems for a couple of weeks and then suddenly won't hold boost or won't even make boost etc etc... Very very long story so won't go any further... ANYWAY

Is there an alternative management system I can use to give me 280bhp *reliably* - i.e. Does the necessary checks for overboost, underfueling, det etc and takes the appropriate action? A little less lag would be real nice too!
Obviously there are loads of options but I am looking for something at the bottom end of the price scale.....

I have seen some mention of a unit (Apexi?) that AndyF supplies and maps but not sure if it is suitable for my car and costs involved...

I am pretty sure the problem is not the ScoobyECU as it has been in the car for several years and until recently all was well. A new management system is unlikely to solve the actual problem although hopefully during the remap it will become apparent what the problem is. What I would like the new system to do however is protect the engine when things go wrong - which I fear is not happening at the moment.

Thanks all

andyf supplies and maps the apexi fc for £700

I had an Apexi PFC fitted and mapped by Andy last year to my relatively standard MY 95 UK Saloon. It had a 3" decat downpipe and 3" system, panel filter, Walbro pump and FSE reg. The difference was amazing after the mapping - the car was so much more driveable and responsive. After fitting more mods, I returned to Andy for a remap which has made the driving experience even better.

The Apexi PFC is a really great ECU. You would actually think it was a factory item as it's manners are so good. Cold starting is perfect, idle is rock steady @ 850rpm etc, etc. Definitely worth the cash!

Sounds Good! What kind of bhp & torque do you have at the moment?
Is your turbo the td05 and how is the "lag"?

Well, I don't know what BHP and torque I am running as it was set up on the road and not a dyno but I'm sure Andy could guesstimate based on the mods.

The turbo is the standard TD05 and and runs 1.3 bar peak dropping to 1.2-1.25 at the top end. Lag isn't too bad...I hit 1bar @ 2850rpm and 1.3bar at 3100rpm. I don't need to go to the rev limiter as the spread of power is good enough to short shift and still make good progress.

Mods so far:

Apexi Power FC ECU and boost control kit (1.3Bar)
K&N Panel filter - removed resonator box and replaced with cold air feed
De-grilled MAF
MRT Inlet plenum pipe
Revolution 3" DP and system
Walbro fuel pump and FSE reg
NGK PFR7B plugs
AVO intercooler (top mount)
Scoobyclinic clutch and Fidanza 4.2KG flywheel

i run apexi power fc :) with a td05/06 turbo peaking at 1.5 bar dont know my bhp is ??? but i know its better than the tek3 ecu :)

Hi Andy? You there?? Comments??
Cheers

Prob worth the wait for andy to reply, PFC has got to be the best option for the money IMHO.

Rob

I am sure i have read somewhere that you are still on the std pump, IMO i cant believe that hasnt been changed yet.

Rob

I would love to sell you a fitted/mapped PowerFC.

However, i don't think the ECU is a problem, if it is, then trying another ECU quickly should soon eliminate it or not. Have you checked your fuel system isn't dying? Do you know that you don't have a dodgy injector?

It sounds like you are getting a lot of detonation for one reason or another, and that the engine is taking out all the ignition advance, running only 8psi of boost and making it run very flat indeed.

Someone with some expertise and the right equipment should be able to diagnose and solve the problem very quickly. I suggest that you try that, before spending at least £700 on a new ECU and mapping.

Paul

Scoobydood, Pavlo is the man to check it out if he isnt busy...

IIRC he can check what the std ecu is doing.

Rob

Sent you a PM

Rgds, Bryan

It may not be that easy to find since it is so intermittent....? Last 2 days not a blink from the !"£%$^ thing - even on full boost. Sometimes it will go 2 weeks without problems. My mechanic is looking at it tomorrow again... I hope it is a *cold* day since I am beginning to suspect cold weather makes it worse. (although this is not always the case). Full credit to my mechanic in that he is trying to locate the problem "on the cheap" at my request. i.e. Swapping out 2nd hand parts to try rather than me spending hundreds on pumps. regulators and sensors which may not even resolve the problem.

Pavlo I agree that the ECU will not be the problem since it has run for a long time with that same ECU. HOWEVER I have been told several times that the ScoobyECU map I am running is the very original one and there have been several improvements made since then (Dave Wallis). Unfortunately I have found it impossible to obtain the updated maps by post or by me taking my car to get updated. Dave has been too busy and have emailed both yourself and the other ScoobyECU man (name escapes me temporarily) direct but received no response.

Also am I right in assuming that something like the Apexi unit has more scope for "protecting" the motor in situations like this and better monitoring/logging to help locate poblems?

If it is the pump then I would like to buy an uprated pump and regulator and run 1.2 bar... :-)

seen this problem before, tried all sorts of things, it turned out to be the fuel pump, the only way we found it was it packed all together.

no problems since fitting a walbro.

Fitted another fuel pump today as well as checking cables/plugs/earths and another MAF. Will let you all know how it goes. Thanks!

Mine displayed the same symptoms until I fitted a new fuel pump. All has been well since.

I have (my own design) custom Scobyecu map too...

Mmm.. Not doing well. Mechanic tried 2 other MAF sensors but was still getting excessive k/l activity so put my original one back on. he checked all the earths, multi-plugs etc and found them to be OK. He then fitted another fuel pump and sender and said seems to be better (only once did he have an orange flicker on full boost) - otherwise 1 or 2 greens.

When I went to drive home after the car was delivered I immediately noticed the idle was a little rough (surging).... Drove home and car still feels flat but seems to be pulling much better on boost (but then again it is temperamental and can do this sometimes anyway). Didn't really push too hard going home - saw 2 greens on the k/l but because I had to refill with Esso SUL on the way home figured wasn't too bad... but when I got home was idling the engine to let it cool and noticed the CEL was on... Not sure for how long because my boost gauge obscures it while driving. Switched off - restarted and light went off. Have connected black - black & green - green by the footwell and car seems to go into diag mode (clicking, whirring etc) but CEL light stays on until I start and then stays off. No flashing or anything... so can't find the error code that triggered the light...

DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK figured it out... Was just mean to connect the 2 blacks. I have 3 long flashes and 2 short... so guess that is code 32 which I think is the Lambda sensor... That would explain the rough idle yes??

It would explain the rough idle. Does it get better if you unplug the lambda sensor? (don't worry - it's only there for emissions control, not for engine safety)

Not sure how to disconnect lambda....
Sorry let me rephrase that "not sure" = Absolutely no idea!! :cuckoo:

Have a look at the downpipe. You should see a spark plug sized sensor in it on the intercooler side. This is the lambda sensor - simply follow the wire to the socket and unplug it. You may need a small screwdriver to lever the tag up on the connector.

Don't run with the lambda disconnected for long, as this will break the sensor (if it isn't broken already...)

Lambda getting replaced tomorrow..... if car still running a little rough then will disconnect and compare. Other than that - turbo seems to be spooling up faster and car pulling harder... No Reds on the k/l yet but early days!!

Got the car back last night. Problem was with the connector (multiplug under the waterbottle under bonnet) and not the sensor. Apparently now giving correct readings and switching properly...

Car running OK. Feels a litle flat at low rpm - I could swear it was going better when the Lambda wasn't working (i.e. CEL). Is this possible? Apparently it was giving a very low reading and not switching upwards as the revs rise... Does this mean I would be running rich or lean??

What's the long term consenquences of running without a Lambda? Any extra stress/wear on the engine? What about come MOT time?? I'm tempted to takie it out if car will run better :idea:

Sister in law has been told that a faulty lambda has wrecked her CAT on her Bimmer 318i....?

without a lambda the car will use the safety map it has stored in the ecu, it runs very rich so more fuel goes through the cat, the cat will then overheat and no longer do its job(knackered).

best thing to do is de-cat it, do you still have both cats in or just the downpipe one?

Just the downpipe one... Have been toying with the idea of replacing that with good downpipe but of course MOT is then a prob...