DIY Oil Change - new Scooby owner
 

I'm wanting to do an oil change on the 2001 (Bugeye) WRX I've just bought. And wonder whether anyone can provide me with some advice...

I note with interest the special oil change procedure detailed in this thread:

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...ange+procedure

I'm sure that sitting there spoon feeding the filter with oil for an hour will be riveting stuff, not to mention removing the battery, screenwash reservoir, airbox, crank position sensor (just finding that bloody thing will be fun!) and spark plugs.

That's one wild and crazy oil change procedure, but if that's the way Scoob enthusiasts and the Motorsport guys do it, who am I to argue. It Beats taking it to the Stealership...

So I've got my filter, I've got my drain plug washer, I've got my socket set and I've got my spoon ;-)

Now what oil should I be using?

I've been getting some very conflicting messages here. The vendors that I use (and have used for many years with good results) recommend Semi Synthetic 5W-30. My WRX's owner's manual agrees, but says that Semi Synthetic 10W-40 could also be used.

All OK until I started reading posts on this site, which go on about Fully Synthetic 15W-50, 10W-50, 10W-60, all of which are grades I have never heard of (and I have 10 years experience in DIY mechanics).

The only Fully Synthetic oils I've seen available on the "High Street" are 0W-40 and 0W-30. Posts on this site have stated categorically that these grades are to thin for the Scoob's engine.

So is 5W-30 Semi Synthetic OK? And if not, then what is? and where can I get it from?

Obviously, anything that's not available in the UK is of no use to me.

My WRX is a UK car, unmodified and has covered 95,000 miles. It's used almost entirely for motorway driving.

Hi, and welcome to SNet :D

First may I point out that the full procedure is a little over the top, and removal of the plugs (hence battery and airbox) although justifyable, isn't absolutely necessary. Disconnecting the CPS should remove enough load by not permitting fuelling or ignition. Also, pre-filling the filter isn't that arduous. You really don't need a spoon, and if you leave it 5 minutes each time, by the third application it should be full.

As for the oil, I'd go for a fully synthetic from Motul (300V), Silkolene (Pro S or R) or Millers. For most people 5W40 is ideal, rising to 10W50 if you plan to track or race regularly (although this will make cold starts and the first few miles uncomfortable). With the quite high miles on your car, it may be prudent to use the 10W50, but seek out more qualified advice first as I could be talking out of my @rse.

There's a guy who posts on here who can supply any of those called oilman , or look out for Alyn from AS Performance.

:D

As stated just disconect the crankshaft sensor, I dont worry about taking plugs out etc.Oil filter only takes a while to fill. The best way i find is to fill it before i jack the car up then another once or twice while removing the old stuff then its ready for fitting when you are.. I use mobil 1 15/50 avaliable from halfords. Do check its 15/50 and not 0/40 though as the packaging is the same.

Found some Synta Synthetic 5W-40 at my local VW Dealer.

Gonna do the oil change later today.

I used to us Synta in my old VW Corrado. IIRC it was £18 a bottle at an independant VW specialist. I now use Silkolene Pro S 10W50 in that as the Synta is a bit thin for a 105k engine I feel. I seem to remember reading on a VW forum that VW has it made by other companies, Esso being the latest that springs to mind. The thing to be careful of with "synthetic" is that they are not all what they seem. Many synthetics are actually still mineral oils that have been messed about with (hydrocracked :confused: ) or semi's that through a loophole in the marketing description laws can be sold as simply "Synthetic", even though they aren't strictly true synthetics. The ones I recommended are true synthetics. The choice is yours.

someone's been brainwashed by oilman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.bbc.co.uk/humber/stage/2...mckenna270.jpg
Whan I click my fingers you will wake up, but will only desire synthetic oil. Not only that, but you will crave Silkolene like a dog craves humping your leg......and wake (click).

:lol:

Silkolene Silkolene Silkolene Silkolene

OK, so I did the oil change today. Filled the new filter with oil before fitting, removed crank sensor plug, dry cranked the engine. Started it up. Not even a flicker of the oil light. A success I thought, until I saw that the orange Engine Management light is now on all the time.

Something that the oil change procedure didn't mention. Perhaps I should have removed the entire sensor from the engine rather than just disconnecting the plug, but It was tucked right behind the alternator, and there was no way I was gonna take that off...

I'm pretty sure the light will go out eventually. Anyway, I'll see how I go with the Synta 5W-40. If I get rattles, I'll try it with Silkoline or Motul 10W-50 next time, although I'm still not sure where to get this stuff from locally...

BTW, priming the filter with oil took nowhere near the time suggested elsewhere on this site. 4 applications of oil from a top-up bottle, about 30 seconds apart were sufficient to fill it right up with no airlocks.

Hi Antera,

The CEL will extinguish after 5 engine starts.

Regards,

Ian

he's all but done that!

glad someone agrees with me!