Landy gearbox removal.
 

Any help appreciated...

I'm planning on taking out the gearbox this weekend as the synchros have gone on all four gears but as this looks a little more complicated than the fuel tank replacement/stop cable and rocker cover jobs I've done so far I was wondering if anyone has any previous with this one.

If so, can you offer any advice?

Cheers, Faire d'Income.

What type of Landy is it?

D'oh. Series III 2.25 diesel.

Series or Defender? 88"/90 109/"110 ?

Generally, there are 3 ways to do it, I've only ever done the one myself, so can't really recommend which is best:

First way: The whole lot out the front, Interior out (seat box, and gearbox tunnel), Front grill and rad removed - and hoist engine/hearbox/transferbox all out the front.

Way two (my way): Out the front again. But unbolt and split the transfer box off the gearbox and leave it in.

Way three: Out the interior...this is what the haynes manual says, so all the interior out again. But you unbolt the and spilt gearbox from the engine, and hoist it out (with transfer box) out the cab.

It also depends on the particual model (or modifications) as I can't remember if you can actually can split the gearbox off the transfer box whilst in the vehicle on all the models (due to not being able to get at the bolts).

Btw, need a good hoist, and ideally a gullible friend to give a hand on the removing bit. Although with plenty of cursing it can be done on your own.

Cheers Ali,

method three is the one I'm planning on using, the only problem that I foresee is that my drive is gravel so I'm not going to be able to move the hoist that much. Is if feasible to put the gearbox in a wheelbarrow to move it across the garden to my shed for the work to be done on it or is this inviting a hernia?

The gravel will be a problem as you'll need to pull the engine hoist backwards, and it won't move very willingly. Maybe an idea to get hold of a large sheet of thin plywood panelling to roll the hoist on.

The gearbox is heavy, as long as you split it off from the transfer box before trying to shift it I think you'll just about manage :)

It's also easier if you take off the front wings. They're not fastened on by that much anyway, but it does allow you to get right in there, alongside the gearbox. You'd probably have to take 'em off anyway, just to get at the thing, just thinking about it, but get rid of as many body panels as poss, at the front end, as they're liable to be dented or worse...

They do weigh quite a lot, and you may find the gravel a slight problem. Could you do it in the road perhaps? Make sure it's a good wheelbarrow though.

According to an LR mechanic mate of mine, you ('one', that is;)) should be able to do a complete engine swap in around 2-4 hours..... Those bolts onto the engine do tend to be bloody tight though. Watch your elbows when trying to undo them:). You've been warned;)

Where abouts are you anyway?

Never worked on a 3, but used to 110 and a series 1.

Front wing removal may be a nightmare, depending on the corrosion level of the securing bolts, but if thats not bad it's definitely worth doing.

Two peoples enough to lift a gearbox and transfer box, though it's a struggle.

Should be okay to move the gearbox in a wheelbarrow on your own as long as it's a solid wheelbarrow.

Can also lever it onto the edge of the wheelbarrow with the wheelbarrow sideways, then stand on the side of the barrow to tip it back upright if you cant get it into it.

The road is not an option as it's a country lane but the plywood idea sounds a good 'un but as I'm in Surrey it's unfortunate that I can't invite you guys round for a beer and 'box party.

;)

I'm looking forward to it as one of the reasons for buying the Landy was to get back into some car maintenance as I've either had company cars or ones I daren't touch for the last 10 years or so and having blipped through the previous few jobs I'm feeling quite punchy.

If the panels will come off easily I'll whip 'em off as any chance to undo a bolt or two is worth it in the long run as IMO once they've come off, it's easier the next time.

Any ideas as to how long it will take to change the synchro sets - for a complete novice that is?

Hi

Land Rover Owners International www.lro.com have quite a lively bulletin board where you might get some help.

Also quite lively at Mud Club www.mud-club.com or http://forums.mud-club.com/ - caters for all types of 4x4 :-)



Can't help personally as don't have any experience with older landies - and as you say newer ones not really worth bothering to have a go with everything dependant on computers and ECU's :rolleyes:



All the best mate :)



Mick :D

Last weekend came and went, whilst I gave it some thought. ;)

Having quotes of between £300 to £400 put me off the luxury of getting someone else to do the dirty work, so I bought a hoist and rammed the Landy on the patio area beside the front door which so far has not created too much hassle with the other half.

The problem is, no matter how much WD40 I flush onto the seat box frame precious few of the bolts are willing to come off. I ended up grinding most of the bolts off for the floor and may have to do the same for the seat frames unless anyone can come up with a better idea for getting them off.

Any ideas?

Proper penetrating oil left overnight I've found more effective than wd40 for seriously seized bolts, though I've got mechanic friends who swear by nothing more exprensive than a can of coke...

Dremel's are always handy for the bolts too tricky to get at with the grinder.

Cant really suggest a quicker way other than that myself, just watch you dont notice and slice through part of the ageing alminum frames- the grinder will eat them if it touches them compared to the bolts.

What's a dremel? Can't find anything on Google.

TBH if they are the original bolts - the angle grinder is the way forward :D (more fun too)

It's what I had to do with 80% of the nuts and bolts on my lightweight to take off the most of the body parts. The other 10% of the bolts sheared through the force - and that was using a 3/8" ratchet (which has never been the same since either!).

You'll find the gearbox bolts a bit easier - providing that your landy leaks plenty oil (which lets face it - they all do ;) ), stop them rusting up :D

I find that duck oil/wd 40 in a pump spray (you buy it in tins) works alot better than the aerosol type.

btw a Dremel is a mini drill thingy that has load of different cutting, grinding and sanding attachments. Black and Decker do a similar one too (you can get them from B&Q etc) I wouldn't bother though as the cutting bits out wear out far too quick and they aren't cheap.

Its not an ageing landrover if it's not properly rusted up..!

Found the Dremmel (spelt right this time...) invaluable when I was rebuilding my old and badly rotten series 1 a few years ago, but the cutting discs are over priced I agree- they cost nothing like as much as they used to now though!