HELP!! - problem after service
 

Please help after my intermedate service on a MY 00 at prosport - i picked up the car today happy with the service etc but on my way home the car ran very smoothley but each time i came to a stop the revs dropped and almost cut out,
if i then come out of gear and let it tick over it seems to be ok, now and again the revs go up and down when stationary but it only seems to be when i come to a stop after a short distance traveled i rang prosport who said it should settle down after a while, so i did a bit of driving aprox 15 miles but still the car is trying to cut out but just coming to life at the last minute

the service prosport did - they also read the ECU for fault codes and reset

ive had the car for 7 months and it ran mint, - during that time ive added a few mods a blitz sus air filter and a centre decat and a VTA dumpvalve all of which have not caused the car any problems the car still drives very smoothly and pulls like it should (if not better!!) but it just still trys to cut out on me,

what should i do? i was thinking of disconnecting the battery for an hour and seeing if that would help but i thought the MY 00 did not need this as they learn themselfs

What should i do its only since this oil change this is happening!!!

thanks

Jud

Sounds like a foobar'd MAF sensor!

MAF!

???
 

can i not just clean it, or does it need replacing, if so how much and where from.
will a reset not do it anygood? or should i put the standard air filter back on and try that or is it too late?

how come the car drives so well while moving?


cry cry cry

Jud

You don't want to be driving it too much with a knackered MAF, recipe for bye bye piston #3.

You do not need a full MAF on a classic, you can buy just a cartridge "insert" (anyone got the model code??) which is £70ish rather than 200.

Andy

Problem after Service
 

My goodness, MAF, MAF, MAF - the guys been and had a service, the cars got a slight low idle, maybe a touch weak down there, and you're all MAFFing away like they pack up every 5 minutes... Is everything really a matter of plugging and playing with these things, nah... rubbish advice. Take it back and get them to set it up properly! Then listen to some sensible advice if they can't get it running better, can't see how you were satisfaied with the service, either!

maf
 

LOL at harry they look after your car and at least my oil is golden brown with no spillage also on my last car (astra GTE) the garage decided to forget to put my oil cap back on (you can imagene!!!).
also 9.00am this morning prosport technission rang me and explained a few things and it now seems defo the maf so thanks SNET guys, it will cost £70 for a new one but thank god its not £200 (do the newer cars have to pay this?!!!!!!!!!!)

he also said that the car will be fine pottering about but dont open her up he is even going to stay late tomorrow night to fit it for me so i cannot fault that

i am now wondering if i should revert back to my old air filter before the new maf gets fitted? incase the problem pops up again at my next service, what do you think?

Thanks

Justin

stupid thought but have they remembered to plug the MAF back-in???????????
if they have had the airbox and things out maybe its this easy!!
alyn - asperformance.com

Harry. They may have reset his ecu. It may have been covering up the faulty maf before but now cant do it. This is what happened to mine. Exact same symptoms.

Andy

Alyn,
It may be a daft idea, but you could be right, check the maf before they just replace it!!!

maf
 

ive checked it and it is plugged in is the maf itself that small cartrige thing inside the air flow tube? should i attemp to clean it

thanks

Jud

If they'd forgotten to plug it in, the CEL would have come on straight away, so that one can easily be ruled out.

No Jud, you can't clean the MAF sensor. Well, there's nothing stopping you spraying brake cleaner on it (or whatever), but seeing as you can't be sure it's "fixed", you can't trust it, so the only sensible option is a new one.

Incidentally, is this Blitz filter a replacement panel or a cone?

BTW, HarryMann, it might help to gain a bit of perspective and experience with these cars before contributing comments like that. The car doesn't have a "slight low idle", it has a fluctuating idle, which is one of the most obvious symptoms of airflow sensor failure. It wouldn't be "slightly weak down there" either, as idle mixtures are set by the ECU under closed loop control and wouldn't simply go weak if there wasn't an external cause.

Exactly the same happened to my car - went in for a service, had new air filter, which entails removing/knocking around the airbox, and it cut out on the way home several times - cure - new MAF

It seems it didnt like the disturbance...!

maf
 

thanks greasemonkey the filter is a cone all metal type hopefully prosport can change it for me tomorrow night do you recon the new maf will go in 6 months time?

thanks also to Dr hu (at least im not on my own on this one)

regards

Jud

Impossible to comment on the projected lifespan of your next sensor Jud, but if it were my car I'd get shot of the Blitz filter, refit the standard induction tract and an STi or K&N panel filter to go with it. This option carries far less overt risk to the sensor than continuing with the cone. Less chance of airflow misreads cooking your engine too.

IMHO ditch the Blitz. My buddy here used a panel replacement type one for a bit (coz they are safer he was told :rolleyes: ). When we pulled it out you can imagine his horror when held it up to light and could almost see through it, his comment, "I won't be buying another filter at night!!" From the state of his MAF (and the dirt in the air box behind it), it didn't seem to do much filtering at all... Must be good for flow;)

Funny you say how well it went while moving, he said the same thing, along with how much more responsive the car was;)

Best of luck with your new MAF and "filter" :)

Point taken GreaseMonkey (my manners)
.. said 'trying to cut out', not fluctuating low idle, though fluctuating low idle is also generally weakness, howsever caused (c.f. regular heavy, throbbing! idle = richness). Closed loop system doesn't prevent this, probably causing it, being fed a somewhat duff MAF signal, the O2 sensor being a secondary correction, not primary.

The old standards of how engines behave to mixture and ignition still stand, regardless of whizz bang electronics. But on the point of MAF failures, sounds like these are thin film resistor types or hot-wire types, and very touchy to contamination, maybe the move to speed~density sensing is still in its infancy. Simple vane devices were never this prone to failure...

maf
 

greasemonkey what sort of performance gains/losses will i get by reverting back to standard air filter but with upgrades sti/k&n eliment inside

Thanks

Jud

You probably won't notice any difference either way in performance with your mods. A decat DP and decent BB will see significant gains as will a reprogrammed ECU. Ditch the dumpvalve too!

F

maf
 

today i have returned my air filter back to standard and set out on a worrying drive to prosport with one foot always on the accelarator so the car wont cut out

anyway pete there was very helpfull and banged in a new MAF eliment and again reset the ECU and bobs your uncle running once again sweet as a nut,:) i cannot beleve how a farty little thing like that makes your car so poorly

the only thing i miss now it the noise the blitz sus cone filter made:(

so now i think i might sell it (any offers?) (its only done about 6000 miles between me and the prev owner boxed with all bits.

thanks to all who helped me with this problem

regards

Jud