Hello!

I am seraching for a better Oilpump!

Wich ones are good and what is better on the "better" ones??
Any Sources and Prices are welcome!

Thx

Maecky

PS: and the Topic is called OILPUMP! lol

[Edited by MaeckyMY98 - 1/14/2004 10:27:51 PM]

Try Roger Clark Motorsport. My mate has one on his group n rally car.

Hello!

Any Email or Homepage??

thx

Mäcky

http://www.rogerclarkmotorsport.co.u...trancehome.asp

THX

did you know, they only change the releif spring for a stronger one, then charge the earth for it, as there is nothing else inside the pump , capable of being "uprated" ! So you dont infact get a higher supply of oil, just a higher pressure which may damage or finish off any weak seals on an engine.

You should know what you are talking about and get yourfacts straight before making a post like that. Repeating what "somebody" told you is dangerous and unhelpful.

[Edited by harvey - 1/15/2004 4:10:24 PM]

the oilpump from a legacy turbo is also beter.
the rotors on the uk gt turbo are 9 mm and the old legacy are 10mm
the svx has 12 mm rotors

The modified Roger Clark oil pump is NOTHING like you describe.

They replace a crucial part, and it isn't the spring.

Mark.

Hello!

The Shop at Roger Clark isnt working!

Anybody know a Price and what they change?

Is it worth the Money?

or should i go for a SVX Pump? Will these fit?

For the four pot engines, Subaru supplies two kinds of oil pumps:

1) With 9mm wide rotors for EJ15-EJ22 SOHC/non-turbo engines
2) With 10mm wide rotors for EJ25 and all turbo engines

The difference is about 10% of oil flow at low and high engine speeds, just as the difference in size would suggest.

PS: Legacy Turbo and Impreza Turbo engines use the same oil pump, I checked the part numbers and part history with Subaru to confirm.

Personally, I see no reason to upgrade an oil pump as these hardly ever fail or wear. I do, however, always use a new pump (*****AA108) on each engine I rebuild.

Mark and Harvey agreeing...wow :)

Hi Mäcky - endlich, YHM

The "uprated" pump is modified to prevent the release valve sticking. Cost posted from memory is £142. Not a lot in relation to an engine build.
It does not flow more oil or run at higher pressure which may not be desirable anyway but it runs new stock output.
:) Hi Richard/Stirrer :)

Hello!

Are there any options wich run more Oil/pressure?

Anyone expierience with external Oilpumps?

Not feeling very happy with the Original stuff!

cu

Mäcky

I think you better invest in a good oil cooler (from Mocal or so), they have in my opinion more value then an uprated oil pump.
I have done 60000 miles on 1.3 bar of boost with a regular TD04 and the original pump and still no probs...

Creepy

Hello!

@creepy

If the Oilpump fail the Oilcooler is no help!



Anyone ever thinked about a dry sump system? Will be the best i think but whats the Price and wich one?

cu

Mäcky

But really, how often does an oil pump fail on these engines (I have not yet heard of one) or is an oil pump to blame for an engine going kabang?

Get rid of the stock oil 'cooler' (heat exhanger is a better description) and get a real air-to-oil cooler that is up to the business.

In my experience most engines do not need an oil cooler and those that do are being run on track very hard.
You can only determine if you need an oil cooler after you have observed your oil temperature in all types of application.
Two concerns with an oil cooler are the increased time for the oil to get up to pressure and flow fully round all parts of the engine and the other is that the oil temperature takes far longer to reach say 80 deg.C prior to which heavy throttle and hard boost are inadvisable. If the engine is not regularly running well over 100 deg.C there is absolutely no point considering an oil cooler and I wonder how many road cars actually run adequately hot to need the expense of an oil cooler when a satisfactory oil temperature guage is £40-£100.

Harvey
some oil cooler extension brackets are equiped with thermostat
fitted into.
just use cooler when need

That is true but it is another complication and something else that can go wrong in a vital part of the engine.
It would be interesting to know what oil temperatures are run on road cars. Mine is generally 78 deg C on light cruising when ambient is less than -2c and up to 86 in summer, cruising around 4-4.5K. 10 laps at Croft in summer flat out and it might go to 120c.

" at Croft in summer flat out and it might go to 120c. "

And that's were you blw the thing up....
Engine rebuild : several 1000£'s
Oil cooler : 150£....

Creepy: There is nothing wrong with 120 deg C oil temp. This engine has done 30,000mls plus and an oil cooler is not necessary.
Now if it is not needed at this power level it will not be needed on most other 2 litre engines if set up properly and running quality oil. look here:
www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000