IS this product any good for scooby's?
Heard a lot about this stuff, but has anyone used it in a scoob,has it possibly helps prevent engine damage due to the common oil pressure failure.

have a look here-www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html

It would quite possibly have an effect on oil pressure failure, yes. Like cause it :rolleyes:

Use Prolong products.
I swear by them!

Lol ive heard and seen so many American ads claiming that by using their additive would make yr engine last 1million miles longer lol. The best one i saw was about 1 year ago. I cant remember what the additive was but they poured it into the car ran it for a while and then emptied the sump and carried ondriving without any oil in the engine. Now im no chemist but i dont think that can e good. The internal temps would cause all sorts of damage to the block and pistons etc et the add looked so convincing especially when they tried it on a Dodge Viper in the salt dessert.

Cheers

GERRY

think that was motor-up, or should it be re-named blow your motor up!!!

believe it or not, some yrs ago i had a trans am went to sweden in it, about ten mins from getting of the boat i lost a rod throu the block, had a look and thought sod it engines gone anyway still had 200 mls to go so i carried on at a steady 30 mph, bang another rod gone just as well i did,nt turn of cos this rod knocked the top of the starter when it came throu, carried on, got about 100 mls or so and lost drive, with all the vibration going on it broke the lugs of the torque converter which drives the front pump in the auto box, had a new engine shipped out, when we had a look in my old enging it was as dry as the desert, rods and crank had a sandy texture, you could see how hot it was in there, no sign oil had been in there at all, only thing that i could think of that got me as far as i did was that i had 2 bottles of slick 50 added before i left the uk, make what you will of that, cant see the slick 50 having anything to do with dropping the rods, but without it would i have got as far as i did??????????????????

[Edited by rav4640 - 1/18/2004 12:36:44 AM]

think ill just stick with changing the rs every 4k

Not sure if the turbo temperatures will cause Slick 50 to break down and hence block the turbo oilways ( not a good thing ) and most threads on here seem to warn off using these type of PTFE additives.

I asked a PTFE chemist at ICI some years back and he told me PTFE will only adhere to metal at high temperatures with high pressures. So 400 C in the engine is enough, and the pressure on various bearing surfaces ( tonnes/square inch pressure ) are also sufficient to allow the PTFE particles to bond to the metal.

So is likely SLick 50 and others CAN reduce friction in bearing surfaces, maybe piston rings too.


My personal experiances : MG Midget 1500 cc, used slick 50. On a motorway run, front pulley nut worked loose, dropping the front pulley and water pump/alternator belts, oil peeing out of the crank seal as no pulley there! Engine overheated badly - I only realised as steam came into footwell and out of bonnet as I reached traffic - temp gauge had risen a bit then fell ( as no water on it so fell until head temps reached it through the metal! ) Thermostat cover melted ( plastic! ).

I was 10 miles from a m-way junction, so I carried on, not realising the state of the engine coolant and oil!

Pulled off the motor way, pulled into a pub car park. No Oil, NO water, red hot engine!! Melted engine bits.

When recovery arrived, tried to start engine to drive on trailer, started up fine, just a bit rattly! Engine was ok apart from 1 crank bearing being scored, after 10 miles motorway driving with no oil or water!


Similar story with my old rally car when I sold the engine. Had been Slick 50'd for the secret advantage ( was open spec based on capacity, so not cheating! ) and when the buyer went out on an event, his oil cooler hose fell off - he only noticed once oil pumped out and low presure light came on. Finished the stage ( only 3 or4 miles though, Oulton park! ) and stopped. Fixed pipe, added 1 gallon oil (!!) and started up. No rattle or anything.
Still put out 130 bhp at wheels some weeks later on the rollers and ran fine for a couple of years and looked fine at rebuild then!.
Car was a Sunbeam Ti 1600cc pushrod engine.

Apart from possible turbo issues, I'd use slick 50 again.

If you look on the slick 50 bottle, it says ok for turbo charged engines.

There was a test on a normal car, no oil in it and it ran 300 miles before it seized.
Slick 50 on the other hand isnt good for modern engines, definately not good for turbo engines, the best thing you could ever put in your car is a correct rated fully synthetic oil, forget slick 50 unless you have a 300k smoking engine (and even then i wouldnt put it in!)

Tony:D