Ello chaps
any ideas on this - it just started doing it today, she normally ticks at constant 600rpm but today started bouncing from 900 to 300rpm & almost cutting out.
only things I can think of are 1. its fekin cold & 2.this is the first time I have used optimax? (usually been using BP super)

is this air flow sensor or something like that? can I fix it? if not will it cost me a kidney? (dont worry - not mine - one of the kids ;-)

Cheers
Phil (FT)

Are you sure you meant 600 Phil? The first graduation on the revcounter is actually 500 (not 0, as loads of people think!), so if your car's normal idle speed is just over halfway between the first mark and 1000 it's actually 750-800rpm or so (which is normal) rather than 600 (which is too low).

There are a number of potential explanations, but a failing mass airflow sensor very often produces this symptom.

If it is the MAF, this is a part that you can replace yourself if you're moderately handy with a screwdriver, but we'd need to know what model year and type of car you have before suggesting a part number and cost for the replacement.


[Edited by greasemonkey - 12/17/2003 10:33:57 PM]

does the idle stabilise if you unplug the maf ?

My car is 1999 with a phase 2 engine.
Haven't tried unpluggin maf.........don't know where it is :)
But can find it if you tell me where to look ;)

Cheers
FT

on the intake pipe just after the airbox.

As Steve says Phil, the MAF sensor is located in the pipe immediately after the airbox. If you look at the back of the pipe, you'll see a cable connected to a gadget that's fixed to it.

You can try unplugging it as stated to see if the idle stabilises, but don't unplug or reconnect the sensor with the ignition on.

If the idle does stabilise, it's pretty much a given that the sensor is screwed. In this case, the part number of the replacement is 22794AA010, and you should be able to get one from any Subaru main dealer for around £75.

Removing the old one is simply a matter of removing the two larger screws (you will need a set of Torx anti-tamper screwdriver bits), and pulling the old sensor out. You can make the job easier by removing the three smaller screws holding the metal plate to the MAF pipe, and then twisting the sensor out.

I had this problem mate i got an my99 model too it was my air flow meter it cost me £60 pound to get a new one from a subaru main dealer. Have u got an induction kit on? cause this makes them go faulty

[Edited by scooby-zeus28 - 12/18/2003 1:39:04 AM]

With all problems happening lately with MAFs and Lambda sensors maybe it's a good time for a group buy ?

Seems like MY 99 / 00 are having the most dramas :rolleyes:

Phill

MAF sensor failure caused similar problems on my car.

Has anyone tried the revised version they put onto the US market following a spate of failures ?

I'm trying to source one to see at the moment.

Steve

You're not trying to buy one in the USA are you? UK based Subaru dealers have been selling the revised one for some time.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 12/18/2003 1:55:15 PM]

Thanks for the advise guys
I will try disconnecting the MAF tomorrow & let you know.

I dont have an induction kit but have got a forge dump valve & prodrive exhaust - was thinking of induction kit next, however if it causes problems maybe I wont bother?

MOT is up at end of Jan so car will be going for a trip to Scoobyclinic - if the MAF is shot is it going to cause damage to leave it until then? or should I just do it now?

PHil

I'd do it right away mate. No excuse not to, really. It's not too expensive and should take you twenty minutes, if that.

As Slowboy says, sooner is better. No point driving the car with a known issue if you don't have to.

There's little, if any point fitting an induction kit. The standard setup breathes very effectively, and doesn't limit things until you're talking about a highly modified engine. Given there are a number of potential drawbacks with them, a good (STi, K&N, Green etc.) panel filter is a more sensible (and cheaper) option.

as it rained all day Sat I only just got chance to try it, however.....its not doing it this morning? is this typically an intermittent type of problem?

(found the sensor though, looks easy to deal with) -
Scoobynet could do with an FAQ section which covers this sort of stuff, I noticed a couple of other posts for the same issue since this one was posted. SIDC has somthing like that but this issue was not in there.

Phil

...also, its a lot warmer this morning than it has been all week - could the cold be affecting the sensor??

Phil

If the MAF's on the way out then it will often appear as an intermittent problem. If it fails completely you could end up facing a very expensive repair bill. If you're determined to get a more accurate assessment of the problem than the advice received on here then get a pro to look at it and diagnose the problem. Otherwise just change the MAF. Whatever you decide, I suggest you do it soon.

Personally, I'd go right ahead and change the MAF. If it's the original item then they are known to be a weak part. The newer ones are slightly improved, so for this reason alone it's worth forking out, even if you're not 100% on what the problem is. In other words, it's not like you're replacing a perfectly fine sensor - they are weak.

Im convinced - It still has not done it again, but if I dont change it now I will be pig sick if my engine goes bye bye.

Thanks for all the responses guys

Phil

if you are gonna change the maf sensor i have a brand new one in my garage you can have for £40 inc post cause i got one for my my00 and sold it before i fitted it

White Scooby,

Is the MAF is for a MY00 mate, if so I'll have it off you mate.

Can you email me your details please ?

Thanks Phill

hands off babber - mine died first

white scoob that will do nice mate - cant find how to email from scoobynet so mine is phil_carnell@yahoo.com

Cheers

Father Ted,

How come it yours then ???? I thought I posted first didn't I ???

Phill