When I give my MY00 real stick, so that it 'almost' red lines in each gear, meaning as I change gear she's between 6500 and 7000 revs. At the point when I engage the clutch for the next gear, I get a huge jolt from the car for a fraction of a second, almost like the ignition has been completely cut and then put back on again.

It only happens under these exact conditions.

The car is totally standard other than a full decat. In fact, it is harder to get since the decat, but this may be my imagination :rolleyes: I don't have a boost guage so I don't know what boost she's running at the time.

Anyways, as per the title, it's causing me no problems, nor am I worried about it, just cusious as to why.

Cheers Guys

Sounds like overboost related fuel cut. Would be a good idea to get a good boostgauge and KnockLink on there sooner rather than later.

As a general point though there's little reason to rag a TD04 equipped car all the way to the limiter. There's little point even going to the 6200 peak power point, as the boost is already tapering off quickly by that point. You'll go just as quick changing up at 5700 or so, and save the engine a lot of grief in the process.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 12/8/2003 10:05:39 PM]

Yup agreed, I'm about 50% to ordering;

3 guage centre pod, boost guage, oil temp, oil pressure, afr and knock link. So that I can then fit the almighty Dawes :p

But I've got this bee in my bonnet bought the Type R, so I don't really wanna shell out 400 notes modifying the car to change it for another in a few weeks and finding it harder to sell cos it's got bits bolted on it.

Oh wot is a guy to do :rolleyes:

if you're thinking of getting a dawes i'm selling one with an AFR. bought it off here a week ago but my plans have changed so i'm moving it on. the AFR is used but in perfect working order, while the dawes device is brand new and unused. it was bought for a MY99, but i think that would be fine for your MY00.
drop me a mail if you're interested.

Its a maf issue, on lift off the ecu is looking at a lean spot causing the jolt. Quite common.

edited to add thats not to say the maf is faulty but rather its the way maf based ecu's function,

bob

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 12/8/2003 11:00:57 PM]

Hoskib, YHM :p

Hi Bob,

You reckon? This is the only issue I have at all with the car, idles fine, starts fine, runs like a dream. Power delivery is always smooth.

Do they not all do it then? (not seen a post saying this, it's just it does almost feel like normal behaviour)

My view on wot is happening, but this is only my feeling from what is happening is, I rev hard, almost up to red line, press clutch to change gear, at this point revs hit red line, car cuts ignition to stop red line, but at this same time throttle has been closed and clutch is open(??), engine sorta stalls, gear selected, clutch engaged car sorta sorts itself out bar a jolt.

However, if this is not normal behaviour then I'd appreciate all views.

Oh and Greasemonkey BTW, I totally buy your point about changing gear at 5700 rpm, but this is mainly 1st to 2nd gear, it don't exactly spend very long in that gear :rolleyes:

Ha bob, just re-read your edit, cant be bothered to edit mine now. So it is quite normal then?

I think my MY99 does that too, although i'm not 100% sure if it's just me being cr@p with my gearchanges as i've only had it about 3 weeks and am still getting used to it. Incidentally mines just had the MAF sensor replaced on warranty so surely it can't be that...

Like someone else said, there doesn't appear to be any benefit from ragging it up to the redline, it's smoother and quicker to change up earlier. I just have to get my head out of the motorcycling 'redline=changegearnow' mindset!

Mine does it if I change gear very quickly, ie. letting the clutch back in before the revs have dropped too much. I find a slower gear change is a smoother gear change. Also saves the gearbox a bit of grief! You could give it a bit of "overkill" to make it smoother still, but don't know what the long term effects on the clutch would be...

If you are changing in high revs just give it that extra half sec for the revs to balance itself before you release the clutch from the floor and it will feel alot smoother and nicer to drive plus saves your poor clutch....

[Edited by RB5Drive - 12/9/2003 1:44:16 PM]