Guy's, just about to fit dawes afr meter, I have my00 uk turbo, is it B136 no 18 that I need for the o2 sensor???

Ta.

I did a search on this before and i could only find instructions for a MY99.It was the number 17 wire.

no 17's the throttle position sensor isn't it??

This is what i found.

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=273416

Might be right for a 98 eh??

Obviously.I'm just showing you what i found.

Thanks for trying, although I can't actually find ANY numbering on the ecu blocks anywhere, so, I went for the wire I thought, soldered it on, started the car, does this thing only work once the motors warm or what??
Maybe I've hit the wrong wire!

Ron.

Don't know where either of you got the idea that it's pins 17 or 18. Might be for an earlier car, but not for a '99/00/V5/6

You want connector B136 pin 21 . This is the blue plug, and if you look at the wire side, it's the third row down and third one in. Should be white with either a black or silver stripe.

Incidentally, you do need to wait for the sensor to heat before it'll read properly, but it could obviously do any number of things if you've tagged it onto the wrong wire.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 12/8/2003 7:03:53 PM]

GM,
I got my info from the Ravensblade site, wrong though!!
Still, as it happens I remembered reading about someone using the wire that you said, so I did! only just started the car though, not warmed up, so should I have any lights on or not, from the little 'fact' that i've been able to find, it's a bit unclear!
Help would be appreciated!

Ron.

RON
get the dodgy Bast who sold it ya to sort it :D

I told you it was 21! Ye of little faith.

MB

Mark,

obviously I should have listened a bit more, got it mounted now, red to cigarette lighter, black to ground, BUT the white wire I did have connected to the blue block, white with silver rings, it did nothing, so, I've disconnected the white, and now the blue neon is on all the time, ie, with only two wires connected, I'm just about to mail JW to see if this is right, I don't think it is, what do you reckon??

Ron.

ps, which bl**dy wire is no21, cos they ain't numbered!!

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?ThreadID=77201

The silver and white is right from memory Ron. With the siganl wire not connected, it will probably just read full scale. It takes 5 mins or so for the sensor to heat up, so it will read nothing for a while when properly connected.

MB



[Edited by Dark Blue Mark - 12/9/2003 12:05:36 PM]

Cheers mark, I'll try again!!

I won't give a decent read out until the lambda sensor is warm.

When I first fitted mine, I got no lights on the bugger at all and spent some time completely redoing the wiring (I have little faith in my own wiring skills ;) ) only to find the sensor itself was on it's way out and reading low. I replaced it with a universal lambda from Halfords for £25 and now my AFR is like a mini disco.

Remember, the afr only gives meaningful figures when the sensor is warm and your foot is on the floor.

With all that in mind, I've just reconnected the white to pin 21, which is where I had it before! and been for a 20miles ride! got it nice and warm, and used WOT a good few times, and still nowt!!
So, if the lambda was completely fubbered, goosed, cooked etc, would this happen, no cel, but it never does very good mpg, and lots of popping etc on the over-run, so is the lambda goosed, and therefore it's running rich all the time? if so, Halfrauds here I come!!

All help gratefully recieved!!!!
Cos I'm stumped!

Ron.

Ron,

Thats why I was confused when you said you only got 200 miles from a tank. Reset the ECU. If your idle goes haywire, its completely shot. If your cars never had one, it will probably need one.

Personally, I would go for an OE one if its shagged.

Not sure the scale on the JW one, but if its failed, it might not show up. It may also be th MAF, as my AFR ****ed up when the MAF had gone. Choice is yours!

May be the best £50 you spent if it saves you from an explosion ;)

MB

When you say you've got the black connected to "ground", are you talking about a ground point on the chassis or the battery negative? IIRC the Dawes instructions suggest the battery negative.

That sounds a bit weird. Never actually played with a Dawes meter, but theoretically with the unit powered up but not connected to the sensor, it shouldn't light any LED's at all.

If I had to guess one way or the other, I'd say it was wrong, but stand to be corrected. It may be designed to do this so you know it's working or something.

As mentioned, if you're looking at the wire side of the plug, it's the third (of four) rows down and third wire in from the right.

If your lambda sensor's totally knackered, the symptoms you're seeing (no lights on the AFR meter, really bad fuel economy even when you're not booting it) is not unexpected, so while it could be that the meter's not working right, as it stands I'd suspect a zonked lambda as the likeliest cause of the current problem.