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-   -   not enough power? (https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain-11/271467-not-enough-power.html)

onehundred 13 November 2003 10:51 PM

on my95 wrx -i now have fitted a boost guage and car is only running on 0.5 bar, this is not correct? can anyone tell me why, or how to up the boost pressure ? please.

LB4 14 November 2003 07:29 PM

No you are correct this is not the full boost pressure. That figure is around what the ECU limits to when there is a problem with a sensor, for saftey of the engine.
Try searching on here for CEL codes and ECU resets, it may help point you in the right direction, if this is the problem.

Gary

Delboy2 14 November 2003 07:41 PM

ECU Reset details here :-
http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/Scooby%20Page/ECU%20Diag%20Page.htm

onehundred 15 November 2003 12:26 PM

have reset ecu and power is still the same just 0.5 on gauge, is there anything else i can look for?

Delboy2 15 November 2003 02:04 PM

Had the car been modified before you purchased it? Check to make sure the pipe from the turbo outlet nipple goes to the 3 port solenoid valve(solenoid valve is in front of the drivers side suspension turret behind airbox) then from the solenoid to the actuator on the turbo. The other pipe should go back to the bottom of the black intake chamber.

onehundred 16 November 2003 08:29 AM

have checked yhat and the botom pipe on the soliniod is blocked off with a bolt and goes nowhere, what next it has stumped me. i suppose it is time to take to a specalist?

Delboy2 16 November 2003 01:04 PM

So the bottom pipe (bleed) is blocked off which normally goes to the resonator box? The other 2 pipes are connected to the turbo nipple and other to actuator on wastegate? If this is the case you are bleeding into a 'dead' end therefore the actuator will open at its nominal spring pressure. I take it you are not using an aftermarket boost controller ie Blitz HKS Dawes etc? If you are using standard boost control ie 3port solenoid this bottom pipe from solenoid needs un-blanking and venting preferably back into the iduction tract but this isn't absolutely necessary.
Hope this helps ;)

onehundred 16 November 2003 03:01 PM

thanks for info. i will try that tommorrow, there is no aftermarket booster.

onehundred 17 November 2003 02:27 PM

i have unblocked the boost contoller bottom pipe where the bolt was and connected it to the induction system where it waso blocked with a screw- car is now running on top form,1.6 on the gauge. i think it is high now as i turned the bar on the actuator.i shall turn this bak now. thanks for the help.cheers

Delboy2 17 November 2003 03:39 PM

Is that 1.6bar? :eek: Cos that is very high, you should be running approx 0.9bar (12.7psig) standard. Try adjusting the actuator arm back to its original position. Has the car been running lowish boost since you purchased it cos I looks like it may have been frigged to cover up a problem. Is the car standard?

onehundred 17 November 2003 09:36 PM

have turned down to 1.4 bar now.car was turned down for purchasing then the crank went-then new engine and then all these problems.

Delboy2 18 November 2003 12:04 AM

What modifications are you running? 1.4Bar without any mods is way too high and possibly why the crank let go previously. If you are running with standard Intercooler, Injectors etc personally I wouldn't run no more than 15-16psig(1-1.1bar)which is about the limit for a std map sensor. This also leads me to thinking either you are not running a std ECU or someone has fitted a fuel cut defencer(Enables fuel cut to be raised)as a std ECU cuts way below 1.4bar. Do you have a knocklink or Lambdalink fitted as I suspect the engine will be severely detonating with the current boost.


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