I have been looking carefully at numerous cars in an attempt to find the right one at the right price (newest, most powerful for the least money). I am seeing 1993 cars advertised at 280 bhp+ Is this possible?
I am also seeing later cars with fluctuating (lower) claimed bhp including Sti versions Are the garages selling them being over optimistic, or are standard WRX cars available from 1993 on with 280 bhp and sometimes 300 bhp. Is there a rule of thumb to pick out the likely truth?

If you read the FAQ, you will find a section on the build codes for the earlier cars, and their power output (in PS, not BHP).

The earlier Japanese cars were all around 240 PS until about 96 (working from memory here so I am probably wrong).

It is a common misconception that all WRXs and STi produce 280 PS, but this isn't the case. Some of the less knowledgeable importers of older cars don't know the difference and claim all produce the higher output regardless of age.

They can produce higher outputs, but will need to be modified to do so. Also remember that Japanese cars run on higher spec fuel (100 RON), so the power output on UK spec fuel won't be as high, though Super Unleaded will do almost as well.

Several tests have proved that 96MY cars onwards accelerate faster than the earlier WRXs in a straight line (better torque characteristics through the rev range). OK the WRXs will produce more power at the top end, but this won't make up for the defecit at low/medium revs.

However, the most recent WRXs and STi's (say 96 on) are faster than the UK cars, especially the Type-R coupe, which has shorter gearing as well.

It all depends on how much you are prepared to spend.

Mike, I urge you to forget the numbers. I dont know what you drive at the mo but I came from a Celica GT4 to Impreza-land and to be absolutely honest, I never hankered for more power in my almost standard (Ramair and custom made back-box)95MY Turbo; better brakes, lights, interior etc yes - but doing night rallies, track-days, rally chase-car, you name it, power was never inadequate. IMHO the best bet is to find the best condition WRX you can find for your budget, as there's no denying that on paper they are better value than a UK car, providing you take precautions over warrantees etc.

Mike, I urge you to forget the numbers. I dont know what you drive at the mo but I came from a Celica GT4 to Impreza-land and to be absolutely honest, I never hankered for more power in my almost standard (Ramair and custom made back-box)95MY Turbo; better brakes, lights, interior etc yes - but doing night rallies, track-days, rally chase-car, you name it, power was never inadequate. IMHO the best bet is to find the best condition WRX you can find for your budget, as there's no denying that on paper they are better value than a UK car, providing you take precautions over warrantees etc.

Thanks John S, I have spent AGES pouring over the information in the FAQ and it is an excellent starting point. in essence I hope I am correct in interpreting that I am really at the mercy of the honesty of any particular dealer.
How much would it have cost a previous owner to have brought a 1993 (K reg) WRX up to a claimed 280+ bhp. is that a likely/affordable project?

I am still seeing the following examples.
1) 1993 K WRX 280 PS. (£13,795)(is this likely)?
2) 1994 M WRX STi 280 bhp. (£13,995).

Which one is the most likely to be what the seller claims it to be. (As the bhp measurements are so closely related to PS, I see little point in splitting hairs over them. ( I don't want an RA, for absolute thrills and excitement to that extent I take my 150 bhp at the back wheel Honda Blackbird out for a run. All comments welcome I am very keen to change my car to an Impreza but I want the right one.
Rupert, My current car is a BMW B 3.5 Alpina mildly tweaked. Previously had Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo then Renault Alpine A 610.

[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 14-01-99).]

Mike

To bring a standard 1993 WRX (240bhp) up to a claimed 280BHP ?? Sounds to me like it has been "chipped"
Chipping usually gives about 40BHP increase, and in the UK it only costs about £400 to do.
If it has been chipped - be carefull, as it may have had a hard life !
Also there is the insurance side of things to consider, ie finding someone who insures chipped cars (& at what price!)

Neither of those models produce 280ps. 280ps are from STi Version 3 onwards.

Could a 3/4 year old car which has loosened up and had basic power gain alterations made feasibly be within the 280 PS (or BHP) area?

If so, as you will see from the originally posted question, what I am trying to determine is wether an (original spec), 93/94 car can manage not to rip it's engine to bits if it has had 'routine' modifications made, potentially putting it from 240 BHP to the general area of 280 BHP, or should I be steering clear of anything which looks like it has been "overtuned"?
Can they be overtuned???

[This message has been edited by Mike Tuckwood (edited 14-01-99).]

I agree that the SVA test was poor considering the money it costs, another way of extracting money from motorists for naff all in return, the test is a joke.
The main concern thay had was with the heater nobs protruding too far, mine passed because it had dual airbags, otherwise?
So instead of stopping all these wrecks on the road with smoke billowing from the exhausts they would fail you for heater nobs, that just about sums up the Dept of Transport for you.

For what it is worth, I got the tip about verifying age using the seatbelts from an SVA tester at Gillingham test centre. Be careful though, it would not be difficult to fit seatbelts from a later car.

The test itself was a bit of a joke bearing in mind it cost 165 pounds. The whole thing was over in twenty minutes and the tester did not do anything that involved him in so much as getting on his knees.

As I recall, they checked the following things:

(a) conversion to UK spec (ie fuel filler neck, rear fog lamp, speedo converted to MPH). They were quite particular about the foglamp and checked height and that it had an illuminating switch. With the speedo the tester just stuck his head in the window to see that it had 'MPH' written on it and he did not check that it worked or that it was accurate;

(b) lights functioning (but no headlamp beam check);

(c) emissions;

(d) brakes on a roller;

(e) age of vehicle (by looking at the seat belt labels.

If you look at the SVA regs. there are a million and one other things they could check but the list above is what they actually checked in the case of my car.

The FAQ on this site clearly shows the build dates and engine codes along with the power output.
I have spoken to a number of dealers who sell older imports and they all quote 280 bhp as the output of these cars - whatever (if any ) mods have been done in Japan. This is purely to jump on the increased power bandwagon of the later cars that have higher power - and a lot of engine modifications along the way.
You will therefore probably find that the cars you are looking at have the power relevant to the engine code on the nearside strut, which you should match to the list in the FAQ.
A tip from another member (Alan Betts) is to look at the labels on the seatbelts as these show the year of manufacture. Not foolproof - but will give an indication as to whether the car is the same Model Year as the dealer is advertising.
Hope this helps
Happy Hunting!

Thanks for the last 2 replies guys, lost the plot slightly, read the original question before replying.

Thanks anyway though, I'm still looking and getting closer.

2 of IM's 22B's also failed sva on the protrusion of the heater knobs - non air-bag of course ! If it's got air-bags its not an issue ! Priorities...........