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-   -   UP-PIPE (https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain-11/250773-up-pipe.html)

KLR16V 15 September 2003 06:22 PM

Up-pipe is blowing could anyone suggest a replacement, should i replace with aftermarket one or get a second hand one car is 93 wrx don't want to spend a forune .Also any tips on best way to change it.

thanks
Mark

robinH20MRV 16 September 2003 09:38 PM

try glenburgie, up north somewhere, just a few quid i would think,

cheers robinh20.

David_Wallis 17 September 2003 01:34 PM

ive got a std, but you know my thoughts.

ticky 17 September 2003 05:00 PM

Ive just ordered a slip joint type from Lateral. As for the fitting side of things that will be done on the weekend.New gaskets and studs cost me around £60+vat from main dealers.

tweenierob 17 September 2003 05:32 PM

Ticky, please tell me you didnt pay £70 for gaskets n studs!!!!!!! :eek:

Rob

KLR16V 17 September 2003 06:26 PM

AS ABOVE

To change it involves down pipe off , air box off , turbo off ,un bolt up pipe from manifold ,will the up pipe then come out from the top or does an engine mount have to be undone to create more space is this right ?,also is the lamba sensor in the up pipe? 93 wrx.

thanks

Mark

Weenie 17 September 2003 08:45 PM

When you say turbo off, its not quite as bad as that. You can unbolt the uppipe leaving the turbo inplace. You will have to take the down pipe off to get to the nuts holding the up pipe to the turbo though.

I took my manifold off aswell to make it easier, down pipe came out easy then without having to mess with any engine mounts.

Paid £100 inc vat for my up pipe from Gramham Ghoode which came with the studs. Then gasgets where £10 each.

KLR16V 17 September 2003 10:43 PM

Does the up pipe bolt straight to the headers or is there a small pipe between up pipe and headers .Is the lamba sensor mounted in the up pipe . Why do some up pipes have slip joints for expansion and some don't , just solid pipes , what is on as standard solid or slip or flexy , does it make a difference . Am i best un doing engine mount to make more room or take off headers , headers are the manifold i take it , if i take them off i will also have to buy and replace these gaskets so am i best doing the engine mount , if i were to do the headers could i port them out a bit myself and would this make any difference or just consume time ?

Any thoughts,

thanks

Mark

ticky 17 September 2003 11:46 PM

The orignal standard up-pipe has a flex type joint, so thats why i went for the slip joint type something to do with expansion & any engine rocking, if subaru have designed theirs like that it must be for some good reason. Some have used the solid type with no problems its just slightly cheaper. As for porting do a search,have seen some pictures & reason why.
Tweenierob - Heres a breakdown of prices ruffly
Downpipe gasket -£10.80
Up-pipe turbo studs £6.80 each, Nuts £0.46
Up-pipe gaskets -lower & upper £7.01 eacn
X centre pipe gaskets 2 off £6.80 each
Head to manfiold gasket (8 shape) £7.00 each
Its does sound a lot, do you no if anyone else could supply these cheaper, going to buy on Friday

ZIPPY 18 September 2003 09:57 AM

The gaskets you may well still need to get from the dealers, but the studs and nuts, walk into any quick fit type outfit throw the guy £5 and get the studs/nuts off them, they have every size you will ever need.£6.80 for a stud i'm still picking myself up.

Zippy

Weenie 18 September 2003 06:49 PM

When I changed my up pipe I got away with just changing the gasgets on each end of the up pipe. Re used all the other ones and got away with out it blowing anywhere!

tweenierob 18 September 2003 06:59 PM

Ticky, i went for the slip joint one myself.... was looking to buy a solid up pipe and was shown the slip joint version, left teh supplier with a slip joint pipe :D:D

As for gaskets, most places charge about the same price for them.
But... £7 for a stud is daylight robbery mate, i would also go with the 'Kwik Fit' idea at first.. Take the Up pipe with you to make sure the threads are right and make sure you get the nuts with them. Failing that.. i got mine from Halfords, IIRC they cost me 60/70p each inc nut.

Rob

Butty 18 September 2003 10:16 PM

The £6.80 stud is expensive for a reason.
Try doing the job with OEM studs/nuts/bolts and then Halfords best.
Come back two years later and tell me which were the easier to get off/not needing cutting off/ getting your car half crippled to a garage to finish the job off.
They are a bit OTT price wise for hardened items but they are well worth it if you need to dismantle in the future.

Nick

tweenierob 19 September 2003 06:33 AM

Butty, i would just like you to think about one thing....

The Downpipe to turbo studs/nuts that come on the car as £7 studs/nuts....Hmmmmmm...

Anyone got a gas axe????

Rob

tweenierob 19 September 2003 06:36 AM

P.s. Would you like to know how many people have brought their cars to me to get seized downpipe nuts cut off??
Quite a few!!

Rob

Butty 19 September 2003 09:35 AM

Oops, got carried away with costs.
Looks like the studs are £2-73 each. Got muddled up between U and D pipe.

Anyway, my message is don't be a miser when it comes to quality fixings, you'll regret it later.

Nick

ZIPPY 19 September 2003 09:41 AM

Butty, the dealers havent got a fooking clue, dont give me this hardened garbage, they will buy them like everybody else does from Partco or somebody similair in bulk.
All up-pipe studs after more than 1 year will need cutting off, i havent seen 1 yet that hasnt had to have some of the studs cut, even on 3 month old cars.
The kwik fit ones have a choice of copper based nuts which hopefully wont sieze as much as the originals.

Zippy

[Edited by ZIPPY - 9/19/2003 9:42:20 AM]

ticky 21 September 2003 12:46 AM

Eventually bought the gaskets, as for the studs dealer forgot to order them. Then i popped into a small branch Halfords, the manager had the studs but was unable to sell them to me told me they are now deleted stock, i would have to give them to you for free, so I had all 10 of them.
I had to remove the turbo as one of the 14mm nuts wouldnt budge so removed the bracket instead. One of the dp/turbo stud thread was nackered causing the nut to spin & not come off so got the gas out.
Eventually got all the bits off & went home.Next morning ported the headers & put it all back together.
No more hissing sounds & cars seems to feel alot more smoother.


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