What is the best ecu to go for by what I have heard the Link is the best. It is also not as expensive as some others i.e G.E.M.S

Is it also possible to do a Fast and Furious style where you can plug in your laptop and get online readings(like S.E.C.S), but they do not do one for my year (MY94 WRX). I would think you would need a "special" piece of software to be able to do this.

OR

Shall I get my ProVa ecu re-mapped if possible, the only thing is I will not be able to map the 1.3+ bar that I would like to run. :)

I do get a long hesitation when I apply WOT but it is probably the timing etc mapped in my current ecu.

What is better long term it sounds best to pay £1000 a get it setup properly to start with.

Suggestions ?????????????????????????????????????????????????

Thanks
Scott ;)

What other mods do you have? I'd say than unless you have a well modded car, there are better uses of the money.

I'm not saying don't get a Link ECU, as they are a good product, but there are other things to do first - (decat zorst, front mount IC, different turbo, bigger injectors etc... No doubt you've got a couple of these already :))
What sort of power are you aiming for?

There are some laptop data logging options for the early Scoob ECUs - a bit like Deltadash for the later cars... (not easy to find, but keep an eye out, and it'll not be long... ;) )

There is also the "ScoobyECU" in Scoobyshop. This is not easily remapable, unless you have access to some fairly major PROM programming hardware & a bit of knowledge of how the older ECU works. However it does give quite good power gains - especially with other mods - and is cheap :) (Leaves plenty of money for other mods... :D)

I'm not sure what the ProVa ECU gets you - from memory it is a daughterboard that plugs into the standard ECU in the same way as the ScoobyECU. It could be that they represent similar power gains.

I already have Turbo back SS zorst, Walbro fuel pump, STi IV TMIC, induction kit, polish heads.

Did think of Scoobyecu but they only map to 15.5 psi and I want to run 20 psi, I am not aiming for a particular BHP just want to get it to go a bit quicker ;) but keep the day to day usage. I keep saying after each mod that its now fast enough and I won't do anymore but then after 2 weeks/2days.. I am wanting more!!!!!!

If only I had the knowledge to map my own ecu.............
Even better get someone with the knowledge to email me the contents of their brain :D

Cheers
Scott

Its good that you've upgraded the fuel pump.

The TD05 will handle it, but as a minimum you'll need to change the MAP sensor (its maxed/very innacurate above 15.5psi - the most I've managed to hold reliably on the standard MAP sensor is 17psi). You'll definitely need more cooling so I'd recomend an FMIC &/or water injection too.

The hesitation is probably turbo lag - I have seen a Prova Map & believe they can be improved upon - both at the bottom end (with regards to lag) & top end (with regards to target boost) - they do run a fair bit of advance though.

Believe that Pavlo & David are the best people to ask as they've "been there & done that".

Hopefully that helps as a starter.

Regards,

Chris

I have got water spray on to the intercooler but it is manual at the mo till I get a pressure switch for it.

Is map sensor on the right hand side of the engine on the inlet or is it next to the boost solinoid?

Who sells uprated MAP sensors?

Thanks for your input

Cheers
Scott

MAP sensor is next to Boost Solenoid & Pressure Exchange Solenoid.

The Pre 97 models ran 2 bar absolute MAP sensors, the later ones ran 3 bar absolute MAP sensors.

Believe Pavlo & David used the later 3 bar MAP sensor & recalibrated their ScoobyECU to account for the different scaling.

PS - Don't confuse water spray with Water Injection - At these levels of boost - I'd recommend a Water Injection to limit Detonation (Water Spray will not be up to the job) - do a search for Aquamist (this is the kind of thing you'll need).

Chris

Chris - you beat me to the MAP sensor limit problem.

The MAP sensor is the littl black square thing near the boost solenoid. (In fact, it's built into the same assembly on the drivers side wheel arch)

Sorry - I've no idea where uprated ones come from. (I've not got that far with tuning my car since I started doing DIY on the house...)

Use a 3 Bar MAP Sensor from a later (post 96) Scoob (cheap from a scrppy) then recalibrate the ECU :D

Is it No.1 or No.2 in the pic?????????????????????
Ok so Map sensor first then Ecu remap next
Is this best to do first before injectors / fuel reg?

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/scoootie5/map.jpg

So the standard internals are ok doing this then as long as i can keep the intake temps down and AFR right.

Cheers
Scott ;)

Sorry just read "the little black square thing", that will be No.1 then.

Thanks Again
Scott :)

Just had a thought about the water injection.

Can I use my 5th injector and a windscreen washer pump the inject water/methonol into the inlet??
Then have a throttle postion sensor.

Just a thought

Cheers
Scott ;)

Chris,

Your right about the PROVA Map... I'd be suprised if the fuel cut works !!!

16.5/17psi is the most you can run on the standard map sensor, although I don't think 92-94 Jap cars can run this high. For some reason they always fuel-cut alot earlier (about 17psi) and the max they can reliably run without intermitent fuel cut is 15.5psi. Hence why the 'ScoobyECU' map in Scoobyshop (mine) is generic at 15.5psi.

I have a Dawes MBC and a Fuel cut defender so don't get any fuel cut. Have had it running at 18psi before and the knock and AFR seem ok.

But I am not sure now.

Cheers
Scott