but too high up the rev range for my liking...

Ask mark aigin what his power at crossover point was :eek:

David

Paul,

I would be interested in knowing which WB AFR you went for? Is it one of the DIY boards that use the Honda/NTK sensor?

I've been looking at The DIY-WB Controller Project and Oz DIY-WB - Wideband AFR Meter.

Andrew...

The one from www.techedge.com.au

Sensor from www.thepartsbin.com (maybe without the 'the')

Works very well indeed, bit of a bugger to build though.

I may be looking at getting a few lambda sensors in from the US, to cut down on carraige charges and stuff.

I also found another interesting discovery in the ecu code, I have found a line that controls the way the boost is controller in terms of changes to the duty cycle the ecu makes to correct the boost. I'm not sure how it works, and what bytes are what, but when I put the line from my default legacy map back into the modified WRX map, I found the boost held steady as a rock till 6000rpm when it tailed off 3psi by the time it hit 7000rpm.

I will do some more experimentation and look at the different values accros the various maps we have.

Paul

Paul, I was running 1.5 bar midrange on the rolling road to achieve the torque. I had to turn it down to this in order to stop the clutch slipping. On the road I can run 1.8 bar as the car just accelerates hard as soon as the torque comes in where as the rollers load up to hold it back and the clutch lets it go !
Interested to know how much timing you added/subtracted at max torque ? As you know I run std timing but would suggest that we (David and I ) probably have a similar advance figure now. I presume the UK was retarded in comparison to my Import.

Slightly OT but are the 550's you have now, a straight drop in to Ph1 rails or am I still better finding some Ph2 rails ?

better off finding phase 2 rails.

I was going to design some adaptors for phase 1, but at the moment, more trouble than it's worth.

I would estimate that david is running about 4 degrees more advance at peak torque than you, as his map wasn't based on a standard uk one, and was tweaked too.

Paul

Paul,

What's difficult about building it?

Also, I am emailing you something I'd like you to have a quick look at when you've got a few minutes.

Cheers,
Andrew...

Can I push you towards the DIY wideband one, much of the development was done by some good blokes that I know and its all open source, the Aussie wideband has some issues attached (some say that the Aussie one is made using the diy-wb effort but they charge for it).

The diy-wb sensor uses the same lambda thats in any post 92 honda, so there's plenty of spares in breakers nowadays.

Rob

not sure that the wb sensor made to the UK Civic.

FOr me the techedge one was the easiest, as I got a case, heatsink, decent pcb, connector all from the same place. Wasn't expensive either, so I don't feel ripped off at all.

Paul

I tried to find a sensor in a few breakers here. It was a no go. Couldnt find any Hondas with it. Best to buy a new one considering what it is used for, as second hand ones, if you can find one would be expensive anyway, and no guarantees to the condition of it.
As for ignition advance, perhaps Andys may be different to Davids, as he is also running no knock sensor which may affect things??
Do you have any plots of Advance/rpm/boost, for the various ecu's In a simple form, easy to read, as I am not computer literate. I wouldnt mind a wee nosey myself.
I am also considering a Link, if the price is right so a few numbers would be useful

Stevie,

No problem, I will get some 3d graphs together for you.

If you can map it (which you can) a link ecu works out pretty cheap I think for the pre97 cars.

Paul

cough... erm no graphs till after well lane 4 :D :p

;)

I have map but doesnt make sense with the software... more errors than owt else.

Paul,

I agree, from the little bit of research I have done it appears that the particular NTK probe that is used by both of the above mentioned WB-AFRs was only used on post '92 Honda 1.5VTEC 'lean-burn' engines which is specific to the US market.

I am still interested to know what difficulties you had in building up the techedge PCB.

Why are Aussies so keen (and aparently good at) electronics? Whenever I search the web for something Electronic/Auto related there always seems to be someone in OZ who has done it and is willing to share the info with other - good on ya mates:D

Andrew...

PS. Paul if you are seriously considering bringing a few sensors (and/or kits) into the country I'm up for one, if you want any help in organizing/funding it then drop me a mail.

I built and installed the WBO2 from techedge. Works very well.

I've got a MY1998 STi IV. I've spent the last few months building micros and getting them working as EBCs. Currently running my car at 20 PSI and it's running about 10:1 AFR.

What would be required for me to start flashing my ECU? I realise that this is a very limited market item, but I'm interested and have a fair amount of spare time on my hands.

If it's a simple matter of soldering in a socket to the ECU mainboard then I'd entertain the idea of building a daughter board to emulated the missing EPROM and take flash commands via a serial port. In effect this would allow one to attach a laptop and tune parameters on the fly.

This all dependant on how well the ECU likes having map values modified as it runs!

Would it be easier to retrofit a ecutek supported ECU in? I don't think they're plug and play are they?

Also, does anyone have a proper pinout for my ECU? I'm told it should have onboard support for a water sprayer and stuff that isn't hooked up in my patched up 2.5RS wiring harness.

-Michael

It is not only electronics. Although it is a big part, with Motec/Link etc being from down under. The fastest subarus in the world are from Oz along with a lot of other machinery. Apparently it is becasue it was in the past so expenxive to import the goods for motorsport in general, that they developed their own products. It almost seems that 10 sec road legal cars are a regular thing, and they achieve incredible power figures with everything. It is also good for us, as the exchange rate being the way it is, it does make buying things from Australia quite cheap even if our own government tries to ripp us off when we import it.

Ok, I decided to take a look at my ECU this evening. So I went out in the snow, ripped up the carpet, snapped some photos and put it all back together before my hands froze...

http://my.beerfountain.com/~miker/tec2/ecu-label.gif

Can anyone tell me which ECU this is? It's supposed to be an STi IV. I believe it's a MY1998.

Finally, since my car was originally an ODB-II MY2000 the plugs for the diagnostic port were not wired into the dash. Does this look like the diagnostic plugs at the ECU?

http://my.beerfountain.com/~miker/tec2/plugs.jpg

-Michael

Guess it doesn't matter too much anymore. I just wrote the car off on some dumbass who didn't look before turning on a green light. I'll take a closer look tomorrow to see if the timing belt was crushed or not.

-Michael

Michael,

Sorry, not to reply to this sooner, I too have an MY98 (non STi), looking at the photo you posted I would say that it was a MY97/98 ECU, could tell for certain if you take the cover off.

The 97/98 is the least understood of all the Subaru ECUs, it is possible to mount an EPROM board, but it is more difficult as there is no ROM socket on the PCB.

Drop me an email if you want to discuss this further.

Andrew...

I'd need an email addy to do that :)
I've got to see what's going to happen for insurance. The accident wasn't my fault, someone turned without looking directly into my path on a green light. I t-boned him so the engine may need valves/timing belt.

I can pop it open if/when I get the car back. I will be buying the wreck.

-Michael

But how much did it cost them ???????????? I bet it was more than £60

And were they Pre97 'OLD' ECU


[Edited by Scott.T - 10/11/2002 11:54:46 AM]

Scott

I believe the 95WRX ignition timing map starts to drop back drastically after 6000rpm at max load. My power certainly drops quickly there. Is it possible to supply a chip/remap to extend the current timing advance at 6000rpm (whatever that may be) from 6000 to 7500 rpm ?
Is this something that could be mailed or do you need the ECU ?

Andy

Less than 1K all in for 369bhp. Running 1.5 bar at 6000 rpm (more midrange for the 345lb-ft torque)

[Edited by Andy.F - 10/11/2002 12:24:15 PM]

top

David,

That's a cruel trick, bringing this thread back page 1 making everyone think that something interesting had been posted.

Andrew...

:D

Has anyone cracked it for the MY97/98 yet?

J

I was going to invest some time cracking a few parameters. I did the rev limiter and a few other small things on my MY2000 Impreza so I'm pretty confident that I could do this one as well. Trouble is the time. I've got a big mess of a car that needs sorting plus an STi engine that either needs rebuilding or replacing. I'll add more if/when I get the time.

-Michael

Jamie, I'll respond to your post in Gen.Tech.

Michael, please drop me an email, I would like to exchange some info with you.

Andrew...

news?
someone have Sti7 map?

Paul,

any idea where error codes are ?

So if I write to the control bit for FANs , will it turn them on? or get over written straight away and not turn them on?
no very useful .. but thought it's worth exploring the WHOLE of the ecu ! :)

Is the only way we're gona be able to make these ecu's mappable through an eprom emulator ? if so, I think I'm gona have to build one. I like the idea of being able to change values quickly!

Steve



[Edited by ScoobyDuck - 8/12/2002 1:49:23 PM]

.

[Edited by Pavlo - 10/28/2002 10:58:04 PM]

Right I don't want to sopund a complete Prat but without looking through all 17 pages:eek: does this mean that if I offer to cross someones palm with some money, that our old bone of a My94/95 scoob could be mad a bit more intresting apart from the other mods that I have done allready ?:D

Huxley

Cheque book at the ready?