Is it worth it?! Recommendations
I have a 2008 Subaru WRX STI GRB JDM (EJ207).
Currently my only mods are: DW65C fuel pump Invidia R400 catback exhaust HKS panel air filter HKS SSQV BOV My next step mods are: PBMS catted downpipe Mishimoto air intake One step colder spark plugs / service Dyno tune With this set of mods, is it really worth getting: TGV delete kit Perrin inlet hose 2.4" AOS The reason I ask, is that I will do the install of the above myself, and I know it requires a significant amount of effort to install. Are the latter mods REALLY worth the cost and time? Do they make a noticeable difference? Is it better to do them if/when I upgrade turbo or to FMIC? Also, are there any other parts Im missing, that are highly recommended? Cheers, Julian (Pic of my hatch) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...5f06c71cc2.jpg |
take a different route to the Mishimoto chinesium stuff IMO........... potentially leaving the airbox in place would be a greater benefit
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Originally Posted by stockcar
(Post 12126595)
take a different route to the Mishimoto chinesium stuff IMO........... potentially leaving the airbox in place would be a greater benefit
Link below: https://www.possumbournemotorsport.c...k-n-filter-sui Or do you mean in general, its better to keep the standard air box? |
the std airbox is very capable in general until circa 400 or so..........if you do decide to replace to increase induction noise, etc then use anything but your initial choice, it simply appears to be junk unfortunately
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Originally Posted by Julian Layton
(Post 12126597)
How about the Process West air intake kit?
Link below: https://www.possumbournemotorsport.c...k-n-filter-sui Or do you mean in general, its better to keep the standard air box? Mishimoto stuff is mostly made in China but the R&D isn't and they seem to be ok which a lot of people are happy with. Both would be more or less fine for what 90% of the people out there, but like Stockcar said the OEM box is quite capable already. |
TGV deletes are not really required at that level, there’s the advantage of removing a potential failure point as they can jam open/closed though. So it’s more a preventative measure.
Inlet hose again is one of those things that you won’t really see a huge benefit from, the standard ones are known to tear need the turbo inlet as the worm drive clamps can eat into the plastic. Again, more of a preventative measure. AOS is always a good idea so stop oil getting into the inlet tract. The RCM ones are good for the money 👍🏻. |
Originally Posted by Julian Layton
(Post 12126597)
How about the Process West air intake kit?
Link below: https://www.possumbournemotorsport.c...k-n-filter-sui Or do you mean in general, it’s better to keep the standard air box? |
Do jdm hatches have a tgv set up?
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
(Post 12126615)
Do jdm hatches have a tgv set up?
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Thanks for the recommendation. I will get the PW air intake instead of the Mishimoto
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Originally Posted by hedgecutter
(Post 12126615)
Do jdm hatches have a tgv set up?
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Originally Posted by 86B
(Post 12126606)
My opinion at the end of the day an intake is just a pipe with a filter for sucking in air, Chinesium or not the air won't matter much to the pipe. If you're concerned you can choose to replace the filter with a trusted name brand one. Both Mishimoto and Process West seems to offer pretty much the same thing, filter, pipe, heat shield.
Mishimoto stuff is mostly made in China but the R&D isn't and they seem to be ok which a lot of people are happy with. Both would be more or less fine for what 90% of the people out there, but like Stockcar said the OEM box is quite capable already. |
Originally Posted by stockcar
(Post 12126639)
not strictly true as poorly made / designed / incorrectly sized MAF tubes will induce poor running and in extreme cause engine damage
An intake isn't rocket science, it's a metal tube with a MAF mount and a general round cone filter plus some bent sheet metal as a heat shield. The weakest link I can see is the questionable filtering capability of the Mishimoto cone, switch that out to a quality AFE or K&N and you should be good to go assuming the intake tube is correct for OPs need. |
actually its "too small" MAF tubes that we have seen more issue with as most buying larger stuff know they need to map, etc
the other stuff people think they can simply buy and throw on without problems........ |
Originally Posted by 86B
(Post 12126647)
Those are valid points to note but also at some point you'll have to decide on your own or consult a trusted tuner and choose the parts accordingly. You don't buy a 3" intake for your stock car and blame it makes your car run poorly. MAF tube too big for you might not be too big for someone else with high horsepower and a custom tune.
An intake isn't rocket science, it's a metal tube with a MAF mount and a general round cone filter plus some bent sheet metal as a heat shield. The weakest link I can see is the questionable filtering capability of the Mishimoto cone, switch that out to a quality AFE or K&N and you should be good to go assuming the intake tube is correct for OPs need. |
Originally Posted by Julian Layton
(Post 12126649)
I will be getting a 72mm (2.8") Process West air intake which has a K&N fiter. Is it safe to drive my car to where it will be dyno tuned? Or does it need to be tuned before any driving?
In regards to intake being too big or small, you wont have to worry about it because you're getting it dyno tuned. The tuner will tune your car to your parts so they will work the best they can. |
Originally Posted by Julian Layton
(Post 12126649)
I will be getting a 72mm (2.8") Process West air intake which has a K&N fiter. Is it safe to drive my car to where it will be dyno tuned? Or does it need to be tuned before any driving?
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k&n on mine scoobs for over 12y ,nothing wrong yet
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Originally Posted by The Joshua Tree
(Post 12126702)
I wouldn't be a fan of running an K&N filter as they are oiled and could cause problems with the MAF, Alyn would know more than me about that tho.
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potentially leaving the airbox in place would be a greater benefit
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