Replaced turbo getting ready for remap...do I need an uprated fuel pump?
 

TF035HL turbo was on the way out so swapped it for a VF46 done it in front of my house on the street (never in my life will I ever do anything like this ever again I swear to god) but now it's done...

Car is standard stock EJ20 Forester XT import, I'm getting the car ready for a remap, don't plan to upgrade or need big power , do I need an uprated fuel pump will it make a big difference or stock is fine?

Original plan was uprated fuel pump , and a drop in AEM Dryflow filter before the remap... Is there anyhting that's not too expensive that's worth doing while I'm speding the money on the remap get the most bag for my buck?

pump is a no brainer on a 15-20year'ish old car.......

An xt pump won’t flow a lot , much better with an uprated one , buy from a good supplier there were quite a few bad copied ones out there some time ago , you need a pump if you are re mapping , plus as above , your current one is probably a bit worn out any way 👍😁

I hear your pain. Just changing the downpipe on mine was a nightmare, getting those bolts to free up was rock hard.

Then helped a mate swap from TD04 to TD05, that was also a right pain. There was 3 of us there, and his Dad :lol1:

Did you manage to do it?

Flexible ratchet spanners are the key.

I did it, I had some help from my dad took us about 6-7 hours with no breaks. Now I have to do the inlet as I managed to rip the old one in the process....this is going to be another s@£t job....

I'll order a fuel pump are the Fuji Racing ones good?

we generally supply genuine Walbro or RCM ones.............

I'll send you a PM

Part i struggled with was the amount of force needed to release them, always worry about rounding stuff off. Although Flexible ratchet spanners is a good call.

How much?

If you dont have a lift its a lot harder, I found heat and the ratchet head moving so you knew it was on firm and solid spot on, once cracked they never seem to be finger tight either, so the spanners were ideal.

Not sure if we applied heat, i normally do, bought a mini blow touch, really handy piece of kit.

So you saying you applied heat while trying to undo nut?

Just run the car, it will heat the down pipe, not red hot obviously, but as hot as you can take.

Normally try to avoid that so I don't get 3 degree burns :lol1:

But worth a shot. Thought I'd better just to heat the nut, which helps it separate from the thread.

i hit the down pipe with a decent sized hammer which appeared to help loosen off the bolts due to the down pipe moving very slightly 👍

Tempted give it ago now, as need new downpipe and upgrade that turbo.

Done the fuel pump today felt quite pleased with myself until I tried to start the car and it wouldn't go......turns out I forgot one of those little rubber gaskets on the new pump .....idiot anyways about 5 hours later taking everything apart twice getting fuel everywhere around the back of the car it's done ...good thing is I didn't blow the car up and now it's working...and the whole car stinks of petrol now

I also need to sort out the inlet so I ordered a Samco silicone one but then found this HKS one in Japan ... I'm assuming it's easier to install than the silicone one? Should get here in a couple of days.....this is going to be another crap job....


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...6e7f756ab.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...5d6af33fb.jpeg

And is there anything else I should be doing before the remap? Got new plugs last year, ''new'' turbo, uprated fuel pump, and need to sort out the inlet .....oh and also got a mishimoto silicone throttle body hose as the OEM was F$£%ed also....anything else?

on my Sg Fsti , there is a snorkel in the inner wing , it looks the same set up as yours, i’ve cut my snorkel down , you remove the vent in the engine bay that sits at the front of the car , you take the snorkel out via the front offside wheel well , i used a saw to cut most of the bottom of the snorkel away but left enough for it to be put back in place , you think why bother , depending on how much you remove decides how much turbo noise you get , so cut away in stages , the performance benefit is the airbox is only getting cold air from the front bumper not warm air from the engine bay so it will help it run better , then block the vent hole in the engine bay where the old intake system was ,it’s like running a performance air filter but in cold air , the other thing i did was put a splitter in the bonnet intake scoop , just a piece of aluminium riveted in , helps split the airflow as most of the air goes to one side of the intercooler , again helps the car to run better 👍😁

Thanks I'm a different setup than you mine is a SH, you're talking about the snorkus delete?

yes , but more of a reduce than delete , i think delete would be too noisy 👍😁