Advice Please
Hi all I have recently acquired a JDM 1998 GC8 impreza, been off the road for 10 years have rebuilt the brakes,... all fresh oil...moted..running fine but i would like some advice about upgrades, i would like more performance but i do not have a endless fund for this car, its my first Subaru i just love it!!! many thanks all advice greatly received
|
Hi mate and welcome, get some pictures up
You need to decide where its lacking first, spool, top end, torque etc. Then go from there. Depending on if its a phase 2 th ecu is mappable, if it is a phase 1 or 1.5 I'm not too sure the best way to go about it is. |
Not too expensive to get started. Get yourself a Walbro 255 fuel pump, performance air filter (don't bother with an induction kit) and then a decat/sports cat and get it mapped properly by a competent mapper (Bob Rawle is in Swindon and I believe he maps GC8's). After that you are looking at big ticket items such as front mount intercooler, injectors and turbo upgrades. Remember to improve your brakes in line with any performance mods so factor that in to budget. From experience I'd say you generally get what you pay for so save up and buy decent parts new rather than rushing and using cheap or second hand if possible. And get some pictures up. :thumb:
|
Originally Posted by adam.pah
(Post 12119259)
Not too expensive to get started. Get yourself a Walbro 255 fuel pump, performance air filter (don't bother with an induction kit) and then a decat/sports cat and get it mapped properly by a competent mapper (Bob Rawle is in Swindon and I believe he maps GC8's). After that you are looking at big ticket items such as front mount intercooler, injectors and turbo upgrades. Remember to improve your brakes in line with any performance mods so factor that in to budget. From experience I'd say you generally get what you pay for so save up and buy decent parts new rather than rushing and using cheap or second hand if possible. And get some pictures up. :thumb:
Mate it is too early in the morning for me :lol1: but like you said it starts getting expensive on a classic far quicker. Don't forget the 5 speed too. I need to message you about something actually so expect to see a whats app from me in a bit @adam.pah |
What is the best performance air filter , cobb, jr, ect very confusing for a newbie.
Thank you for the helpful advice |
If its a phase 2 I've heard of 98's but not confirmed, the mafs are terrible and out of all the different models they are the worst so I went mafless. Any way an oiled air filter can cause a number of issues with these mafs so it is recommended to go with a non oiled filter.
I can't recommend any non oiled panel filters as I am using a cone filter. If you did go oiled I would recommend K&N. If you are going to get a remap look at ECU labs and go speed density. No need to worry about mafs and oiled filters :) |
you dont mention if its standard or already had mod's done to it. if it was standard car id be inclined to leave it as such - just upgrade/sympathetically modify stuff like wheel/brakes/suspension/exhaust and leave it std body wise & engine wise - 280bhp is more than enough in them to enjoy it. itll also keep its value better imo
|
The car is completely standard, it had been parked on my inlaws drive for 10 years,!!! Thank you for the sound advice
|
I'd focus on the underside then.
|
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119265)
What is the best performance air filter , cobb, jr, ect very confusing for a newbie.
Thank you for the helpful advice |
How many miles have you done in the car? Is the desire to add performance based on having assessed performance is lacking, or because you want to spend money?
I don't want to sound rude about the latter. We all enjoy spending money on our cars. |
Originally Posted by NOSSY_89
(Post 12119270)
I'd focus on the underside then.
|
Originally Posted by plenty
(Post 12119272)
How many miles have you done in the car? Is the desire to add performance based on having assessed performance is lacking, or because you want to spend money?
I don't want to sound rude about the latter. We all enjoy spending money on our cars. |
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119274)
I really only want to get the best out of the car.
Hope that makes sense mate. |
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119274)
I really only want to get the best out of the car.
Plus you get the chance to actually drive the car at the track without some numpty pulling out on you or heading backwards through a hedge if you do get it a bit wrong. I believe it's summer action day at Castle Combe in May and you'll be able to book a couple of sessions on track for a reasonable cost. |
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119274)
I really only want to get the best out of the car.
Speaking as the owner of a 387 bhp classic, 276 bhp in a light classic shell is more than enough for most situations. |
I'd removed the exhaust system and go aftermarket, OEM system is very restricted. Just that alone and a remap will see vast improvement. As said above uprated fuel pump and filter will also help if remapping.
|
i agree with Jaygsi , my only concern is , is it a map able ecu ? , if budget runs out then don’t do the exhaust , a re map (if possible ) will make a big improvement , one of the limiting factors is your gearbox , 5 speeds are not as durable as the 6 speed sti ones 👍
|
That's a good point, might need esl or new board. Think it's £600 for supply and remap for esl.
Originally Posted by Vxr2010
i agree with Jaygsi , my only concern is , is it a map able ecu ? , if budget runs out then don’t do the exhaust , a re map (if possible ) will make a big improvement , one of the limiting factors is your gearbox , 5 speeds are not as durable as the 6 speed sti ones 👍
|
I would drop the sump check the oil pick-up pipe could be covered in sludge if it's sat for ten years
|
Originally Posted by welder029
(Post 12119286)
I would drop the sump check the oil pick-up pipe could be covered in sludge if it's sat for ten years
Oil control is everything. Before investing in all these goodies, do a compression and leak down test, to see if the motor is worth the attention. |
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119250)
Hi all I have recently acquired a JDM 1998 GC8 impreza, been off the road for 10 years have rebuilt the brakes,... all fresh oil...moted..running fine but i would like some advice about upgrades, i would like more performance but i do not have a endless fund for this car, its my first Subaru i just love it!!! many thanks all advice greatly received
Originally Posted by lockheed
(Post 12119287)
This, and get a new oil pic up pipe, it costs pennies........ In the grand scheme.
Oil control is everything. Before investing in all these goodies, do a compression and leak down test, to see if the motor is worth the attention. |
Originally Posted by lockheed
(Post 12119287)
This, and get a new oil pic up pipe, it costs pennies........ In the grand scheme.
Oil control is everything. Before investing in all these goodies, do a compression and leak down test, to see if the motor is worth the attention. I would echo some of what others have said. First thing I would do is check the body work. sills, Rear arches and turrets. Is it sound. I have seen absoultely mint looking classics writen off because the shell is so far gone under all the spotless bling. It is has problems, that is the first place to spend your money. Do a compression an leak down test. Pick up pipe, Oil pumps have a tendancy for the screws to work their way lose on them, just be aware. Goes with out saying stick good quality oil in it and change regulary. The only way you can get a proper accurate oil reading on the dipstick on them. is do it when stone cold on a level surface. Best oil is Silverline, or if not that Royal Purple, Fuchs, Motul If the car is sound. I would put the money into brakes and suspension. You have rebuilt the bakes so great. I always chuck some decent money at the Pads. Padgid or Performance friction. Suspension. There is a lot you can do. The most obvious thing that make such a difference is Tyres. For the road on classic subarus as a great all rounder Goodyear Eagle F1s. I have pushed these for hours on alpine backroads in all weathers they work! No good on track mind. Then look at things like ARBs and anti lift kits, drop links ect. Engine I would leave it alone for the time being. Put a K&N pannel filter in. Change the fuel pump for peace of mind. If you ever up the power. take it to about 320hp and its associated torque thats the sweet spot...as over that you begin to put too much strain on the OEM gearbox. 340hp you are probably OK I know someone that got away with 370hp on a TY754 box. (obviously its torque that kills boxes not HP) However 320 hp in a classic with good brakes a good set of tyres and a few suspension mods is a real back road weapon. Sounds like you are enjoying the car And here ends my one post of the year :D |
Fuel pump
Originally Posted by Steve Whitehorn
(Post 12119360)
Do the above
I would echo some of what others have said. First thing I would do is check the body work. sills, Rear arches and turrets. Is it sound. I have seen absoultely mint looking classics writen off because the shell is so far gone under all the spotless bling. It is has problems, that is the first place to spend your money. Do a compression an leak down test. Pick up pipe, Oil pumps have a tendancy for the screws to work their way lose on them, just be aware. Goes with out saying stick good quality oil in it and change regulary. The only way you can get a proper accurate oil reading on the dipstick on them. is do it when stone cold on a level surface. Best oil is Silverline, or if not that Royal Purple, Fuchs, Motul If the car is sound. I would put the money into brakes and suspension. You have rebuilt the bakes so great. I always chuck some decent money at the Pads. Padgid or Performance friction. Suspension. There is a lot you can do. The most obvious thing that make such a difference is Tyres. For the road on classic subarus as a great all rounder Goodyear Eagle F1s. I have pushed these for hours on alpine backroads in all weathers they work! No good on track mind. Then look at things like ARBs and anti lift kits, drop links ect. Engine I would leave it alone for the time being. Put a K&N pannel filter in. Change the fuel pump for peace of mind. If you ever up the power. take it to about 320hp and its associated torque thats the sweet spot...as over that you begin to put too much strain on the OEM gearbox. 340hp you are probably OK I know someone that got away with 370hp on a TY754 box. (obviously its torque that kills boxes not HP) However 320 hp in a classic with good brakes a good set of tyres and a few suspension mods is a real back road weapon. Sounds like you are enjoying the car And here ends my one post of the year :D Regarding the fuel pump would i need a remap? assuming i go for a Walbro 255, the car is solid apart from a small amount of rust on one rear wheel arch, i do intend to fit a new oil pick up when i change the oil. |
Originally Posted by Scoobynewboy1
(Post 12119365)
Thank you for the Advice
Regarding the fuel pump would i need a remap? assuming i go for a Walbro 255, the car is solid apart from a small amount of rust on one rear wheel arch, i do intend to fit a new oil pick up when i change the oil. There were fake Walbro 255s floating about years ago. So anything mission critcal stay away from the auction sites and pay a bit more and go to a reputable supplier. Just be aware that a small amount of rust on the rears can be hiding alot of internal rot. If you need quality proper OEM thickness repair pannels I can put you intouch with someone. Something else popped into my head. The fuel tank is poorly baffled on them and under hard cornering if the tank is too low you can get fuel starvation. So if on track and pushing it hard dont let it drop below quarter of a tank minimum. On track I am allways topping the fuel up even though I run two pumps and a swirl pot. Nothing to loose sleep over but just something to be aware of. |
If you have rust on the arches then take out the boot trim and carpet. Be careful not to rip the boot trim because it is very thin, I've ripped far too many lol. Have a look where the jack is and see if it is full of water after it has rained. You can check for rust in and around there and you will be able to see the state of you turrets too.
|
Originally Posted by NOSSY_89
(Post 12119395)
If you have rust on the arches then take out the boot trim and carpet. Be careful not to rip the boot trim because it is very thin, I've ripped far too many lol. Have a look where the jack is and see if it is full of water after it has rained. You can check for rust in and around there and you will be able to see the state of you turrets too.
|
Originally Posted by Steve Whitehorn
(Post 12119360)
If you ever up the power. take it to about 320hp and its associated torque thats the sweet spot...as over that you begin to put too much strain on the OEM gearbox.
340hp you are probably OK I know someone that got away with 370hp on a TY754 box. (obviously its torque that kills boxes not HP) |
Originally Posted by plenty
(Post 12119406)
390/390 here on a v6 RA DCCD TY754. But OP will have a TY752.
And OP - as mentioned above AS performance is a good first port of call for new parts. |
Agree loads of fakes out there, I'd go for the RCM one, they had a thread on here some years ago about there quality of goods and issues faced, as made in China. That's what i'd be upgrading too.
Who's this contact you have for quality panels?
Originally Posted by Steve Whitehorn
(Post 12119390)
No you wont need to remap when you change the pump. You are just pumping fuel into a system that has not fundamentally changed.
There were fake Walbro 255s floating about years ago. So anything mission critcal stay away from the auction sites and pay a bit more and go to a reputable supplier. Just be aware that a small amount of rust on the rears can be hiding alot of internal rot. If you need quality proper OEM thickness repair pannels I can put you intouch with someone. Something else popped into my head. The fuel tank is poorly baffled on them and under hard cornering if the tank is too low you can get fuel starvation. So if on track and pushing it hard dont let it drop below quarter of a tank minimum. On track I am allways topping the fuel up even though I run two pumps and a swirl pot. Nothing to loose sleep over but just something to be aware of. |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:49 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands