Forum recommendations for heat pumps and insulation
 

Seeing I’m on skeleton shifts at work, like many of you I current have alot more “free” time “stuck” in the house (excuse the ironic quotes) ;)

Seems that the internet is not as good as it once was at finding gurus in selected fields that can share experience. So open to reccomendations and advice....

One is my Ground source heat pump (IVT greenline HE11) which was installed by a bodger and am slowly debugging and trying to understand if its working ok or not...Two potentially major issues are the ground source loop flow/return temperatures reading worryingly low, leading me to suspect that the wrong infill soil has been used (very heavy-clay soil in this area).

And the compressor tripping the split load RCD that’s shared with the oven and hob (which are both in standby) whenever it starts up.


Other job is that being sat in a five year old extension. I noted it’s very very draughty. One issue was poorly installed bifold doors which I sorted last week, but this weekend it’s cold and windy and the thermostat is reading 14degrees C! It’s not, it’s 20degrees...There is a huge draught coming out the hole behind the stat! Closer inspection reveals its all dot and dab and I’m effectively living in a plasterboard tent!

I had a similar problem in my last house (typical of dorma roof houses), which I was planning and budgeting to gut the entire upstairs to rectify. I’d rather not do that here as the money has since been used up on stamp duty and wonky plumbing! So need some expert advice on rectifying without having to gut everything!

(really wishing I had learnt how to plaster now).

If you can fit coving then chop a line at the top of the wall and use expanding foam to create a continuous seal. The same behind the skirting boards.

Warning check which foam is not reactive with wiring and plastic plumbing pipes. Some do react and will create a melted nightmare if they come into contact with the above.

We have discussed earth leakage before for your tripping.
Its recommended that no circuit should have more than 1/3rd of maximum earth leakage to eliminate false tripping
My Groundsource has around 7 degrees C before the heating has run but drops to around 1 deg C when heating has been on for several hours. My soil is slightly clay based,.

Cheers, didn’t think about coving; that’ll sort two rooms. Third has a vaulted ceiling though :wonder:

Heat pump electrical issue; Either soft start unit or an insulation breakdown on the start windings of the compressor (hence no earth leakage when it’s actually running as soft-start and start windings are both bypassed ).

Ground loop after about ten mins of running is currently -0.8 degrees out to the ground, +2.8degrees back in. So I think temp differential is ok, but was expecting a few degrees higher.

7c degrees outside air temp. Air temp was pushing 15degrees earlier in the week which has got me thinking if it I could retro fit a air to water fan coil to create a dual air/ground source...switchable via motorised valve. I’ve seen some manufacturers supporting this (Vaillant), I was wonder if IVT have a similar option:

The rego1000 control unit appears to support multiple ground sources but the documentation is appalling. Other manufacturers use the same control unit so I’m sure someone knows it inside out (although maybe moot if the compressor is shot).

I would separate the live/Neutral wires from earth on the ground source unit and get a leakage clamp and measure for leakage upon start up

If my heat pump failed, I would go with a suitable sized airsource unit . They are programmed to run constant, but with outdoor and indoor temperature comparison. Then the unit decides when to fire up and provide heat, individual rooms are then controlled by room stats or TRV.

​​​​​​The benefit of these new units is there is virtually no power surge, they are inverter driven so start current can be low as 4 Amps