Diy cambelt questions.
Hi all.
Going to be fitting a new cambelt kit to my 97 turbo 2000 soon. I've watched a few videos on fitting it and I'm keen to do it myself. My question is do I need to buy a cam locking tool to stop the left hand/NS cams spinning off the marks as I'm fitting the belt or is there a way of doing it without the locking tool ? Also it had the water pump replaced when it had the last belt fitted so around 3 years ago, have only covered about 6k miles since so I'm guessing the water pump won't need changing again this time ? I'm thinking I'll just change the belt, idlers and tensioner. Thanks. |
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Ahh that's perfect mate, thank you very much for that. Also thank you Merlin24 too, nice work !
Wish me luck :top: Cheers. |
Nice rewarding job to do mate,just take your time and you'll be sweet :thumb:
AS Performance is your best bet for the kit,great price and service. |
To be fair you dont need the locking tool. i found it easier without using one , it will become clearer once you do the job to what i mean
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almost certainly wont require a Water Pump even if it wasn't done 3yrs ago...........
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Originally Posted by Boostin
(Post 12051931)
Ahh that's perfect mate, thank you very much for that. Also thank you Merlin24 too, nice work !
Wish me luck :top: Cheers. |
Thank you all so much for the response.
Yeah I didn't think the water pump would need swapping again. I think this is only the 2nd pump it's ever had so they must last a long time. The garage that used to look after the car was a very good family friend and he has retired now so that's why I'm giving it a go. Must admit I am nervous about it, but I'm determined to do it and I will 100% take my time and check it's all lined up right. Does anyone know the torque settings for doing up the idlers ? When I've got it all on and tight, am I right in saying I pull the tensioner pin then turn the engine over a few rotations then check the marks are still lined up. If so then start it up ? Anything else to look out for ? Thanks again. |
Originally Posted by Boostin
(Post 12051979)
Thank you all so much for the response.
Yeah I didn't think the water pump would need swapping again. I think this is only the 2nd pump it's ever had so they must last a long time. The garage that used to look after the car was a very good family friend and he has retired now so that's why I'm giving it a go. Must admit I am nervous about it, but I'm determined to do it and I will 100% take my time and check it's all lined up right. Does anyone know the torque settings for doing up the idlers ? When I've got it all on and tight, am I right in saying I pull the tensioner pin then turn the engine over a few rotations then check the marks are still lined up. If so then start it up ? Anything else to look out for ? Thanks again. The pulley marks will all still line up ( should do ) but dont do what i did and expect the white lines on the belt to line up, only about 480 revolutions before they will again ha |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 12051981)
The pulley marks will all still line up ( should do ) but dont do what i did and expect the white lines on the belt to line up, only about 480 revolutions before they will again ha
Cheers mate. |
39Nm for the M10 bolts holding the Idlers.
39Nm for the M10 bolt on the Tensioner ( single bolt tensioner type ) 25Nm for the M8 bolt on the small idler if fitted. |
Thanks merlin24 :thumb:
All with a touch of thread lock too I guess ? As for doing up the crank pully afterwards, is their a specific setting for that too or just very tight ? |
Crank pulley is 177Nm and no need for any thread lock.
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