cant disconnect crank sensor..........another way of not starting needed
so my car has been sitting for around 6 weeks and its now time to get her started so i can use her again, my hands are that of king-kongs and i cannot get them in to the crank sensor to unplug it so i can build up the oil pressure. is there another way of not starting the car but turning it over?
a fuse perhaps or another sensor? its a hawk 2007 sti cheers |
cant you just ask someone else to unplug it for ya
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
(Post 12042528)
cant you just ask someone else to unplug it for ya
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I have the same problem.
I just take the alternator off now. You don't have to take it off fully either, just enough to be able to rotate it up to the right. Basically, the method is: Get a 12mm socket. slacken off the bolts on the top right a turn or two. Slacken the belt off (vertical bolt head on left). Undo the bolt that goes horizontally on the left hand side, that locks the alternator to the tensioner you've just slackened off. rotate alternator up to the right. Should have enough space now. Sounds like a lot of work, but it takes literally a minute when you've done it once, and it's better than swearing at the crank sensor. |
Originally Posted by Henrik
(Post 12042531)
I have the same problem.
I just take the alternator off now. You don't have to take it off fully either, just enough to be able to rotate it up to the right. Basically, the method is: Get a 12mm socket. slacken off the bolts on the top right a turn or two. Slacken the belt off (vertical bolt head on left). Undo the bolt that goes horizontally on the left hand side, that locks the alternator to the tensioner you've just slackened off. rotate alternator up to the right. Should have enough space now. Sounds like a lot of work, but it takes literally a minute when you've done it once, and it's better than swearing at the crank sensor. |
6 weeks I would just turn the key pal unless it’s been forged up etc I’ve started mine up after 8 to 12 weeks I just put the negative terminal back on and start her up |
Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 12042533)
6 weeks I would just turn the key pal unless it’s been forged up etc I’ve started mine up after 8 to 12 weeks I just put the negative terminal back on and start her up mine has done 11k since forged build/acl bearings/mahle pistons etc |
What oil in there mate? im running 10/50 cfs millers so nicely coated allready so no probs dont know if it’s same for the forged engines just saying as mine isn’t in my ownership only time I take that plug off is when I change oil |
Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042534)
what difference would it make if its forged or not mate?
mine has done 11k since forged build/acl bearings/mahle pistons etc |
Originally Posted by ZANY
(Post 12042535)
What oil in there mate? im running 10/50 cfs millers so nicely coated allready so no probs dont know if it’s same for the forged engines just saying as mine isn’t in my ownership only time I take that plug off is when I change oil may even be 10/60 |
Originally Posted by 1509joe
(Post 12042536)
Just start it boss it'll be 100% no revs till the oil circulates. Filter and all will be full already.
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042539)
ok will give it a shot
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I never bother to disconnect the crank sensor, far easier to remove the fuel pump fuse.
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042538)
fuchs 10/50 or 15/50 i cant remember
may even be 10/60 as above just crank it over and idle temp up and take it easy on her let all the oils warp arm up before applying any boost :thumb: youll know most of that jargon anywY ;) |
If it's running the std ecu (even when mapped). Then just put throttle to the floor and then crank. It won't start as it cuts the fuel. All hawk onwardsdo this.
edit: it was the late JGM who told me about this. First time doing it I was still a bit nervous but works 100%. |
Originally Posted by Turbovin
(Post 12042542)
I never bother to disconnect the crank sensor, far easier to remove the fuel pump fuse.
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Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042547)
If it's running the std ecu (even when mapped). Then just put throttle to the floor and then crank. It won't start as it cuts the fuel. All hawk onwardsdo this.
edit: it was the late JGM who told me about this. First time doing it I was still a bit nervous but works 100%. |
so i went out armed with my new enigma lithium ion battery booster pack,connected it up and nothing............not even 1 revolution. i feel this battery booster pack may have been a waste of money. it was showing 4 lights (full power) so i assumed it would be ok. i have stuck it on charge over night and will try again 2moro, if it doesnt work then im ****ing returning it and going with old fashioned jump leads.
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Now i'm not being smart here lol but did you turn it on. Alot of them will read fully charged on test but they've still got a little switch on them to turn it on.
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042554)
lol is that a wind up or you being serious?
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Originally Posted by 1509joe
(Post 12042557)
Now i'm not being smart here lol but did you turn it on. Alot of them will read fully charged on test but they've still got a little switch on them to turn it on.
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Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042558)
no it's not a wind up, it's 100% true.
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Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042561)
ok...................so foot to the floor and just crank for how long?
For me after an oil change, or if its been parked up a good few weeks I'll just give it about 5-10sec cranking just to get oil moving. Then ignition off, foot of throttle, and start as normal. but if you're battery is weak it might not be best idea if I was on the laptop id dig out the jgm post to confirm but I'm on the phone and search is crap on mobile site |
Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042563)
you can crank for as long as you like it won't start while throttle is on the floor.bn
For me after an oil change, or if its been parked up a good few weeks I'll just give it about 5-10sec cranking just to get oil moving. Then ignition off, foot of throttle, and start as normal. but if you're battery is weak it might not be best idea if I was on the laptop id dig out the jgm post to confirm but I'm on the phone and search is crap on mobile site |
Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042565)
my battery isnt weak.............its dead as a dodo :)
and one last double check, you said it a hawk yeah? It's not a spec C or anything is it? Only drive by wire cars can do the throttle floor crank. If it's a cable throttle then it won't work |
Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042566)
that won't help then
and one last double check, you said it a hawk yeah? It's not a spec C or anything is it? Only drive by wire cars can do the throttle floor crank. If it's a cable throttle then it won't work so shall i forget the foot to the floor then whilst my battery is dead? |
Originally Posted by the shreksta
(Post 12042567)
just a uk hawk 2.5 sti thats been mapped/engine built etc.
so shall i forget the foot to the floor then whilst my battery is dead? |
Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042571)
It'll sap the remaining life out of weak battery doing extended cranking
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Usually a dead battery won't hold charge for as long after being recharged, and with weather getting colder will just take more out of it. Be as handy getting a new battery for £50odds you can pick up a bosch s4 battery. Cheaper again if you know someone in the trade. Then leaving the conditioner on the new one.
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Originally Posted by Gambit
(Post 12042580)
Usually a dead battery won't hold charge for as long after being recharged, and with weather getting colder will just take more out of it. Be as handy getting a new battery for £50odds you can pick up a bosch s4 battery. Cheaper again if you know someone in the trade. Then leaving the conditioner on the new one.
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