Cam and or crank sensor murder for them

Depends on the engine. (Nissan M9R or Renault F8)

if if its the Renault F8 lump, try unplugging the MAF; Assuming it has a MAF...some don't! The EGRs stick and screw up the air flow measurements.

These are Bosch EDC...these only need cam sensor signal for starting. Once running it doesn't need the cam sensor, so that won't usually cause the stalling.

By by all means look for air bubbles in the clear fuel lines on the driver's side inner wing where the fuel filter is, give the hand pump some squeezes to see if it firms up (if it has one) as the plastic lines can fracture or rub-through (somewhere down the bulkhead area where it drops down to under the van if I remember right) causing a pin-hole allowing air and drain-back to the tank, although you usually get a fuel pressure fault code of some sort. If you can see live data via OBD you need about 100bar cranking for the injectors to open and allow starting, if it's running and the pressure drops to this or below, again injectors will stop opening and cause it to stall.

And dare I say; While your fiddling under the bonnet look at the state of the fuel injectors...Has rainwater been collecting in the voids of the cam cover causing them to rust into the head? If so, ticking time bomb for big bills.

Renault lump

Does it have any clear fuel pipes or a hand pump (squeezy bulb by the fuel filter)?

If the fuel pipes seem OK, then I still think the EGR maybe stuck fully open denying the engine of enough air to combust : It's fairly easy to get at bar the bottom bolt

These valve tend to come out in two halves...the solenoid bit comes off easy, I think you maybe able to pull it shut by getting some grips on the little bit of shaft sticking out, see if it moves. It should be spring loaded so if it's sticking you will soon find out by working it by hand. Pull it shut, see if it starts (solenoid still removed).

If you want to remove the entire valve for inspection, it will need some persuasion to get it to budge: Light taps with a blunt chisel on the edges of the flange to get it to rotate and work it back and forth until you get enough of a gap to lever between the valve and the manifold and try and get a bit of wd40 in there.

Heres a pic I stole of how it normally comes out: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...33ae6b11b.jpeg


I have had one where the end of the valve came adrift and got stuck in the manifold blocking it entirely, but I'm sure that was a Nissan lump (my memory really is really as rusty ).

Normally before they fail you sometimes get a intermittent 'lag' of power like huge turbo lag...usually when you want the power the most or just after starting from cold and you try and give it some beans and it just sits there idling. Our Megane used to do it every once in a while (same engine)...typically when trying accelerate out of a busy junction onto a fast road.

Whilst it's out, you can try starting it without the valve installed, it will make a right racket, but it should idle once settled. If not problem is probably elsewhere and I've just wasted your time (sorry :o ).

Anyway make sure it's shut, then bolt the whole lot back on. You can leave the electric connector off the solenoid instead, as that will stop it from opening.

I may be able to take a screen grab of the fusebox layout at work...I'll need the reg number though. PM me if you like.

Hi, for some reason SN won't allow me upload pics via PM :wonder: so I've had to stick them here.

Managed to get some grabs but they aren't that helpful as there are a load of variations for both the engine bay and dash fuse boxes. I grabbed what appears to be the most relevant, but I'd get a continuity tester across the top of every fuse.

In in the engine bay I look at fuses 2, or 9 and 10

and relay D, or relay 6, or Relays 2, 3 and 4.

cabin fusebox only has fuses 7 and 9 showing anything engine related.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...0d9610912.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...0c3f8c2d8.jpeg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...a0d6d3c65.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...d21d469ff.jpeg

I had a similar issue with mine around 280,000 miles. The timing chain had stretched and jumped a tooth or 2. So the sensors were out of sync. New genuine timing chain kit and a re time. Started and runs lovely. Currently on 325,000 miles with no problems

I strongly advise taking advice on websites that refer to generic 'P' fault codes and do not refer to a specific vehicle with caution. P0190 is generic P0190-A is not a generic code that looks like something from Op-com/Vaux-com.

Reason why is this is a Renault masquerading as a Nissan/Vauxhall. These are well known for given false/misleading or incorrect code descriptions, depending on equipment/software used and what code monkey translated it as when they wrote the software. Even with Renault kit that gives 'DF' suffix fault codes, these can have totally different descriptions for the same code depending on vehicle model/year.



What you linked to refers to the sensor on the fuel rail. But what John's code reader describes is short or open circuit to the solenoid valve on the high pressure pump. So what is right? Internet (that includes us btw LOL) or John's code reader?

Fuel pressure solenoid is circled here:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...d5a28d80d.jpeg




Check wires, one will be battery voltage with ignition on, other is switched to earth rapidly by engine ECU to vary fuel pressure. Rail pressure sensor is on the fuel rail, 3 wires, 5v, ground and signal.

These solonoids don't usually go wrong electrically (however the mechanical part can fail, particularly the O-rings...but this gives a different fault code, not a circuit fault), nor do the rail sensors. Hence check supply and wiring, this is where engine ECU connector pin outs are useful. Either way, all the wires end up behind the passenger headlamp below the coolant bottle...certainly worth checking multiplug connectors for corrosion (blue powder) on the connector pins.