Pedders vs kyb
 

1999 UK turbo daily driver.

Do I for Pedders ezi fit kit

kyb with the oe springs already on the car.

kyb and different springs, bumpstops I've seen mentioned in other posts.

Thanks for the reply. Kyb sounding the better option then. Just need to decide on springs then.

I wouldn't touch pedders anymore after my experiences with them.

I have them on my hawk sti till sat when they get sacked off under warranty and going for teins. Been on less than 6 months and im on my 3rd set of differing parts.

First set knocked like a rattle, top mounts were replaced, same result. Whole new set of rears put on and better but still knocking, rattling and squeaking. So being replaced for something else.

Hadn't heard a bad thing about them till recently hence why i went for them so dunno whats changed.

I have a couple of set of KYB AGX's left , £475 delivered , just shocks no springs
Cheers Ian
01656 723060

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...1de74993e7.jpg
Eibach-made P11L springs + AGX

Thanks for the replies.
Are the agx worth it over the Excel g.
Do I need bumpstops as well?
Also going to replace the top mounts which should I go for. ICP jobbies?

If budget allows, I'd have Whiteline kca335 front top mounts, in the max caster/max camber position:
Subaru Impreza (GC, GF) - Whiteline Front Strut mount (offset bearing) - Inc. WRX, STi (MY94-00) - Suspension - Subaru Impreza - Subaru - Shop By Car
And these at the rear:
Subaru Impreza WRX RA & STI RA 92-00 Genuine Rear Top Strut Mounts

Bump stops are wear items and should match the chosen springs - they change the balance of the chassis.

The agx are 4-way adjustable at the front and 8-way adjustable at the rear, and can accommodate stiffer spring rates.

thanks for the info.

Sorry I have more questions I want to make sure I end up with what I need before start spending.

My main focus is comfort and useability over outright handling. Better handling is a bonus but as its my daily drive being able to go over speed bumps and shoddy roads without crashing about is what I need.

with that in mind does running agx and stiffer springs sacrifice anything over Excel g and softer springs.

and the same with top mounts will getting uprated ones sacrifice ride quality .

is oe all round best for crap roads/daily driver or is kyb better . Is it worth me going uprated at all in my situation...

so many options Arghh...

I've found that std provides the best compromise.

My old MY99 on lightweight 17" wheels and standard springs and dampers was a car you could just drive down any road, speed was dictated by the grip, not the surface. It jumped well and didn't smash into the bump stops. Loved that car.

My 2003 WRX Wagon on 18" wheels, PCA springs, KYB dampers and whiteline top mounts is nowhere near as good, faster on good tarmac, but falls apart on rough roads (dampers start to overheat, smashes into the bump stops) and feels jittery. I need to try 17" wheels to see if that helps.

If it was me I'd stick with std suspension, good geometry settings, light weight wheels, and enjoy not worrying about the road surface.

Dave.

It's like Christmas today all the parts turning up. Gone Excel g, p11l
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...620fe87941.jpg

What are you wheel centre to metal arch measurements?
This method for better accuracy:

Hook the tape on the wheel rim nearest the ground. Measure vertically upwards, across the wheel centre, to the metal arch = x

Then, hook a tape on the wheel rim, measure across the wheel centre to the outer edge of the rim, on the opposite side of the wheel - divide this measurement by 2 = y (y is, obviously, the same on all 4 wheels).

x minus y = ride heights

Make a note of the fuel level.
Don't be surprised, or concerned, about a 6mm side-to-side differential.

What front bump stop did you use?
What size bars?

I like 215/50 17 on a blob/hawk non-widetrack - same diameter as the jdm widetrack 235/45 17 - plenty of compliance in the sidewall.

Ready to go on and I didn't kill myself with the dodgey looking spring compressors so all good. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...1a875fade9.jpg

Fitted it all yesterday. Just need to get the geometry setup now.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...b844ce9649.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...7a0003929a.jpg

Had time to get an alignment yet?Unless you're running it for a bit, to let things settle out?
I'd like to see the alignment specs/printout they managed to achieve.

I went and got the front done at a place near my work. Left the rears as I need to change the toe bolts and the arb bushes but everything is rusted up and haven't had the time.

They could only manage to get .5 neg camber... They didnt loosen the bottom strut bolt and only adjusted the top bolt though which seems wrong to me . Couldn't get the toe spot on 0 either. I'll post the sheet when find it.

I wasn't that bothered at the time as I just wanted the car to go straight for now and was going to get it all done again once I sorted the rear out. Thing is it pulls to left slightly so going back Monday for them to have another go...

Other than that I'm happy with it all. It feels stiffer but still compliant at the same time . Can still go over speed bumps and broken roads without having to crawl. Compared to my tired std suspension it's so much better all round .

Your gut feeling was correct..I wouldn't waste anymore of your time.

I know but they have already had my money. I will give them another go as they are not charging. Once I get the rear sorted I will take it somewhere where they not what they are doing.

Other than it pulling to the left it's great though. The turn in is amazing, it's definitely killed the understeer. Hoping when I go up a size in tyre and get it properly setup it will go up another level .

I like the 'retro Clubman rally' look those wheels bring to the party lol :cool:

Get them to slack that bottom bolt, during adjustment. If you used the Whiteline kca335 front top mounts, you should get negative 1degree 45mins (1.75degrees) per side - even more front grip.

Yea I will get them to do it this time. I am using the kca335. Got them pointing towards the back bolt in Max castor/camber postion.

[QUOTE=joz8968;12010524]I like the 'retro Clubman rally' look those wheels bring to the party lol :cool:[/QUOTE ]

Thanks. I've always had a thing for white rally style wheels. Used to have some rl7's on my old mk3 fiesta they were and still are my favourite wheels.

Only problem I have with these Compromotives is they are 8j. Running 215/40/17 at the mo which don't rub but look stretched. Hoping to get away with fitting 215/45 and not rubbing but will have to see.

Same here! :clap: :)

I had the genuine rally Speedline 8-spokes on my 449 Sports Blue Clio 16V. They looked the bollocks.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=...AMxLsw7b2UM%3D

https://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=...FVTUXC3KSnU%3D

However, they're an absolute **** to keep clean, so can't be doing with white alloys no more.....what with my dotage lol

I do love the old Clio's. This was my fiesta. 2.0 head, cams, high comp , quaife diff. Spent way too much onit back in the day. Was in fast ford and performance ford. Loved that car.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...f0693564eb.jpg

The wheels (and stance) make it. Apeing tarmac spec rally cars' looks is cool as. :cool: