Spec C polishing, paint depth?!
Hi guys
looking to correct some swirling with my DA polisher but I'm hesitant on what pad to use due to how incredibly thin the clear and paint is on spec c models (80 microns in some cases!) I'm going to just do 1 stage with M205 to limit time on the paint but what pad? Is an orange cutting going to be too harsh even with the finishing compound? |
My go to on something with relatively soft paint and low paint depths would be Chemical Guys Hex Logic Green.
Enough to have a little cut and remove light imperfections but also restore gloss and clarity. You'd be perfectly safe with a DA and M205. |
Originally Posted by B0DSKI
(Post 11990188)
My go to on something with relatively soft paint and low paint depths would be Chemical Guys Hex Logic Green.
Enough to have a little cut and remove light imperfections but also restore gloss and clarity. You'd be perfectly safe with a DA and M205. im used to super hard Mercedes paint so I'm a little hesitant taking this on don't want to be too heavy handed and rip through too much clear |
Does this mean the paint layer is thinner on Spec-C models than on regular STI's? I never knew that
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Originally Posted by Dan1
(Post 11990197)
Does this mean the paint layer is thinner on Spec-C models than on regular STI's? I never knew that
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It could be worth signing up on Detailing World, and asking if any members local to your location has a PDG paint depth gauge, DW also did a printable sheet for recording your readings on(like you get for damage on hire cars) so you can keep a eye on what you are taking off,
it will also tell you if there has been any panel repairs that you may not be aware of, differing readings would point to some kind repair. |
I thought it was base coat and laquer? so really its the laquer your attempting to clean..
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
(Post 11990244)
It could be worth signing up on Detailing World, and asking if any members local to your location has a PDG paint depth gauge, DW also did a printable sheet for recording your readings on(like you get for damage on hire cars) so you can keep a eye on what you are taking off,
it will also tell you if there has been any panel repairs that you may not be aware of, differing readings would point to some kind repair. |
If I only had 80 microns of paint on my car there is no way under the sun I would be trying to correct it with m205. You need to get a paint debth guage and measure acurately the paint debth for starters, howevere you need to know the debth of clear you have to work on. So measure on the B pillar on the inside of the door as there is less clear here. If you measure under the bonnet there is no clear at all so this will give you a good idea of what you really have to work with.
I think if you have about 80 microns of paint left and you try to compound it you will make a bad situation worse. Just live with the swirls, put on something like collinite which has a lot of fillers. |
Remember once you have polished your clearcoat away thats it, its gone and you're going to need a repaint. Better safe than sorry and be cautious.
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@NotFromSomerset how did you get on, did you polish the paint or leave it?
Here is a blog post explaining types of polish that might be useful for you - http://www.nidetailing.co.uk/the-best-polish/ |
Originally Posted by barrybudden
(Post 11991499)
@NotFromSomerset how did you get on, did you polish the paint or leave it?
Here is a blog post explaining types of polish that might be useful for you - http://www.nidetailing.co.uk/the-best-polish/ |
I would be very careful especially on edges if you only have 80 microns of paint. Pop over to detailingworld and see if there is anyone in your area that would lend you a paint thickness guage or measure your paint thickness for you so at least you will know if there are any areas you need to be REALLY careful around.
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Just used a green hex pad and Merenza 3500 on my hatch spec C. I did one session only, it left some swirls, put Collinite over top. The paint is super thin, and chips very easily.
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