BMW 125d M Series...any problems?
Youngest looking at one to replace an ageing Megane R26R, mostly because he does 400+pw to and from work at 25/28 mpg in the Meg.
Anyone know of any problems with the Beemer? Apart from it not having indicators, of course?:D |
die- sel ?
|
Get a different job? Move? Earn more?
In all seriousness, just buy a much cheaper car and not worry about fuel costs. 125D Ms seem to start at £13k. |
Timing chain can fail on engines that have not had the oil changed and/or used wrong/cheap oil. Chain normally good for over 150k+ if cared for 80k or less at worst. Listen for a thrashing/whirring noise front the passenger side to the rear of the front wheel at 2000ish rpm (usually more noticeable with bonnet shut)...it's an early indicator. Freak early failures can also happen, but a careful ear will hear it before any damage is done.
Gearbox can suffer selection issues (loss of gear or no reverse) not cheap to fix. Possibly caused by driving style (city car, drivers who are heavy handed/rough with the gear shifter). Clutch/dual mass/clutch pedal bushes wear on city-driven cars (100k+) again city cars. Banner batteries fitted as OEM fail early (BMW batteries used to last ten years, these would be lucky to last five years). Start/stop system will stop working for a plethora of reasons (called "switch-off inhibitors" ). Usually the battery (as above), or neutral position switch (top of gearbox - need to drop the 'box to access it). Usual front suspension front arms bush wear. Usual BMW. Being stranded at the side of the motorway with a shredded tyre because you don't have run flats and no spare (went past one today on the M69...oops) Runflats do ruin the ride but trust me...you can drive until they have worn through the carcass and the car is still driveable (impressively so). And keep your nails trimmed..they wear the black off the radio/climate buttons...as do abrasive/solvent based cleaners and hand moisturisers. That's about it. Still a billion times better than a Megane :) |
Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG
(Post 11988939)
Get a different job? Move? Earn more?
In all seriousness, just buy a much cheaper car and not worry about fuel costs. 125D Ms seem to start at £13k. You southerners really have ZERO idea of the job situation in the north, do you?:rolleyes: The point being that the Meg is fuel dear and appraoching 120k, so may become unrelaible. since he's on 12 hour shifts, pretty difficult to get to work without a car? And the post asked for advice about a particular car, not his life choices;) |
Originally Posted by ALi-B
(Post 11988959)
Timing chain can fail on engines that have not had the oil changed and/or used wrong/cheap oil. Chain normally good for over 150k+ if cared for 80k or less at worst. Listen for a thrashing/whirring noise front the passenger side to the rear of the front wheel at 2000ish rpm (usually more noticeable with bonnet shut)...it's an early indicator. Freak early failures can also happen, but a careful ear will hear it before any damage is done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oWrj...e_gdata_player Gearbox can suffer selection issues (loss of gear or no reverse) not cheap to fix. Possibly caused by driving style (city car, drivers who are heavy handed/rough with the gear shifter). Clutch/dual mass/clutch pedal bushes wear on city-driven cars (100k+) again city cars. Banner batteries fitted as OEM fail early (BMW batteries used to last ten years, these would be lucky to last five years). Start/stop system will stop working for a plethora of reasons (called "switch-off inhibitors" ). Usually the battery (as above), or neutral position switch (top of gearbox - need to drop the 'box to access it). Usual front suspension front arms bush wear. Usual BMW. Being stranded at the side of the motorway with a shredded tyre because you don't have run flats and no spare (went past one today on the M69...oops) Runflats do ruin the ride but trust me...you can drive until they have worn through the carcass and the car is still driveable (impressively so). And keep your nails trimmed..they wear the black off the radio/climate buttons...as do abrasive/solvent based cleaners and hand moisturisers. That's about it. Still a billion times better than a Megane :) |
I had one and loved it , I got rid because it's too small for me ie:6 foot and because its a woman car
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Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11988905)
Youngest looking at one to replace an ageing Megane R26R, mostly because he does 400+pw to and from work at 25/28 mpg in the Meg.
Anyone know of any problems with the Beemer? Apart from it not having indicators, of course?:D |
Originally Posted by scoobydooooo
(Post 11989052)
I had one and loved it , I got rid because it's too small for me ie:6 foot and because its a woman car
check that sports ford that opens sideways ! |
Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
(Post 11989056)
Has it got 2 seats and rear cage from factory?
Maybe not the R26R then, just an R26? It is that though as it has the LSD. Plus he put better exhaust and a set of Eibachs on it too. Has the half leather Recaros. |
Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11989070)
Not afaik?
Maybe not the R26R then, just an R26? It is that though as it has the LSD. Plus he put better exhaust and a set of Eibachs on it too. Has the half leather Recaros. |
It's the former, then.
It is badged Renault Sport Megane f1. |
R26
|
presume 125d is just a normal 1 series with nice wheels and M stickers?
Get very lost with what is a real M car with BM. Is it the 135 that is a proper one?lol. I'm out of touch |
I think "M Series" is just a trim, like "S-Line" for Audi.
So better wheels and seats? And...? No personal interrest in ever having a Beemer, so have done no research. |
Correct, msport is just spec like sline etc, better wheels, interior, suspension etc
|
Plus MSport is just the starting point...It was once possible to get a higher spec SE to a MSport like a 550i SE if you decide to tick all the options (our 535d Lux is like this; far far higher in spec than the average MSport).
These days they do limit the minimum and maximum engine options, so you can no longer have a 316 MSport or a 125d SE etc. So IIRC the 125d is only available as MSport...but to confuse things further you can deselect some options like the suspension and have SE springs and shocks on a MSport trim car. :lol1: |
Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11989044)
You southerners really have ZERO idea of the job situation in the north, do you?:rolleyes:
The point being that the Meg is fuel dear and appraoching 120k, so may become unrelaible. since he's on 12 hour shifts, pretty difficult to get to work without a car? And the post asked for advice about a particular car, not his life choices;) Why mention his lifestyle choices as justification for the car in the first place then? My point is whether junior has actually worked out the numbers to see how much he would actually be saving? Going from the Megane to the 125d is only going to save £1600 in fuel costs over the course of a year, assuming 20k mileage. Has he factored in VED, insurance, service costs (BMW parts can throw up some interesting prices), 20k a year mileage depreciation (it's going to be £1k per 10k minimum)etc? If saving money is the primary factor, than buying a car with a substantially lower purchase price is going to save far more money, than a more expensive diesel. |
So you do tetbury to Redcar, or Edinburgh DAILY?
If not, that's not a commute...just saying... My point being that he needs a reliable car, the Meg is ageing and doesn't do good mpg. Why would he want a cheap car? He'll end up with something else that ends up unreliable. Trust me...I know...I have TWO Poxalls...;) So.....assuming his car choice and lifestyle choices are up to him, do you have ANY worthwhile info to add? Like do you know anything about BMW 125d M series? :rolleyes: |
I'd watch out for out of warranty failures. I had two warranty claims on my 330d in a year totalling £3000+ which were covered by a supposedly worthless aftermarket warranty through RAC. Fortunately for me th warranty was only 400 quid.
BMW's are expensive to fix when they do go wrong, negating any savings over a cheaper car IMO. It's why I don't have say a 320d immer now for work and jsu5t cough up the extra for petrol. I'm on circa 25k a year now in my Swift. |
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