Oil pressure oem plug leave off when fitting aftermarket gauge?
When fitting the oil pressure gauge with out the sand which plate under the alternator, do you leave the oem pressure plug unplugged I take it??
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A sandwich plate fits on the modine where the filter sits,you want a adapter to fit in stock location so both the gauge and stock sensor sits,the oil light will be on if you leave out the stock sensor.
You want one of these: https://www.advancedautomotives.com/...ter-1544-p.asp |
we carry a similar kit on the shelf
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
(Post 11984159)
A sandwich plate fits on the modine where the filter sits,you want a adapter to fit in stock location so both the gauge and stock sensor sits,the oil light will be on if you leave out the stock sensor.
You want one of these: https://www.advancedautomotives.com/...ter-1544-p.asp Cheers for that |
Originally Posted by AS Performance
(Post 11984163)
we carry a similar kit on the shelf
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Originally Posted by asht88
(Post 11984178)
Yeah I seen that kit from r tech which I was going to purchase I can’t see on that image where the oem electrical pressure plug will plug into under the alternator ?
Cheers for that |
I did similar to above,screw the oem sensor info the side of the adaptor,screw the adaptor into the block,run the pipe up to strut brace and fit the gauge sender into the end of the pipe.
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Originally Posted by ossett2k2
(Post 11984159)
A sandwich plate fits on the modine where the filter sits,you want a adapter to fit in stock location so both the gauge and stock sensor sits,the oil light will be on if you leave out the stock sensor.
You want one of these: https://www.advancedautomotives.com/...ter-1544-p.asp The stock o.p switch grounds the cable when it closes, so leaving it out and the cable tied neatly back will leave it inoperative. |
Originally Posted by peter zippy reid
(Post 11984180)
you remove oem sensor and remove the screw in the pic and put oem sensor it that then aftermarket one in the top bit then threaded bottom part in to old oem hole under alternator
Sorry for confusion |
Originally Posted by alcazar
(Post 11984187)
No it won't.
The stock o.p switch grounds the cable when it closes, so leaving it out and the cable tied neatly back will leave it inoperative. Curious to know why people bother,me included. |
Originally Posted by asht88
(Post 11984192)
Ok I totally understand this but the wire for the oil pressure light plug that uses the oem sensor seems a short wire to plug into the relocated plug??
Sorry for confusion |
I've just relocated my to below alternator as it was on sandwich plate but think heat from. Headers cooked the sensor. Was a bit of a chew on but a crows foot spanner made light work of getting to it. Still in need of a new sensor but other priorities at the moment.
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No, you don't need to refit the original. Mine is on a shelf in the garage, where it's doing as much good as it ever did on the car, LOL.
Some sender will not PHYSICALLY fit where the OE switch is, they are too large. Then you HAVE to use the remote fitting kit. But you don't have to have the OE switch, just leave that opening on the kit blanked. If the wire is too short it's a two minute job to extend it. Your choice, your car. But PLEASE don't use a sandwich plate when the correct position is so easy........ |
^^^^^ :thumb:
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Do you need to use any thread sealant? I used some thread seal tape last time but I'd rather avoid it in an oil system this time.
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I used plumbers tape on the threads
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AFAIK, the threads are coned, so no tape needed. Mine has none. Don't overtighten either;)
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