Check Engine Light
 

So ive had this issue for the past few days, in the morning, car starts and drives fine, as im going down the road after a few minutes the car accelerates, then the boost stutters then shoots off, for a say 5 minutes after the check engine light will come on and off, then eventually it stays on, a few times i have parked up and returned to the car 30 mins later and the light is off and the car drives fine till the next morning then it repeats, i do feel like the fuel economy isnt at what it should be, could this be a failing MAF.

the car is a classic MY00
on an ecutek tek1 map (done before i bought the car)
standard air box with a pipercross foam filter

if you need any more spec please ask

as its a classic, you can read the check engine light with no tools,
so read the code and report back.

ahh thank you, didnt know you could do that

22 is the error code i got

Code 22 is knock sensor.

cool thank you, will have a look into it

so i had to defrost the car this morning, so before i set off the car was up to temp, it drove normal will maybe a tad bit of hesitation,but i didn't get the CEL, is it worth just changing the knock sensor regardless.

reset ecu and try, if it comes back on then look at swapping it out,
sometimes it gets over tightened and cracks, worth a visual look as well.

the condition of the plastic i would say it is possibly the original from the factory, im going to reset the ecu as you suggest, make sure there are no codes stored, give it a go, but i think i will change it out anyway, thanks again for your help

as said just replace the knock sensor. it has a small cracks (usually not even visible to the eye) in the casing. Damp gets in overnight and then it throws the CEL next morning (or when it gets wet/rained on) once dried out with engine heat CEL will go off on next start etc - becomes more prevalent coming into winter months

rinse/repeat until such times as you replace the sensor :)

when you refit the new one, place a small washer on top same width as the collar so that when torqued the bolt doesnt press down on the casing

got one on order, a job for the weekend :freak3: i can only just about see the current one, through the maze of pipework and cables, so not looking forward to doing it hehe

its doable just with removing the intercooler... and a couple of 1/4" drive wiggly socket joints & bars.

the bolt torque is something like 15nm only so its really not tight, and over tightening causes the casing to break just when you go to refit!

yer, the intercooler is my issue, i had to sort the pipe work out for it the other day as it wasn't installed brilliant, and i wanted to remove it, to get a better look at things, but i cant see for the life of me how they got it in there, it is an STI TMIC of a hawkeye i beleive so its long, the top frame of the intercooler keeps catching on the bodywork, ill have a fiddle this weekend to remove it, and do a bit of tidying up, cable ties in hand ;)

should go in there like this....

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...ntoMY00Classic

thats brilliant thanks, i can already see whoever installed it didnt use this guide, there are bits missing like the left hand bracket holding the intercooler in place.