Engine rebuild - Advice/Input
 

This is my plan , if you have any ideas/suggestions/advice/input about other parts or things i can do or if something is waste of money/time.

I have googled a fair bit and got pretty clear picture of everything but just in case i have missed something im checking here with you guys.

The car
2005 JDM STI v9 started a knocking sound so with winter coming, it is time to rebuild it with forged internals.

The plan
The car is going to be a daily driver and im looking at somewhere between 400-500hp while keeping it close to stock look.

Already fitted
3" Milltek De-cat + catback
DW300 fuelpump
BCS 3-port swrd
Ecutek

Things to fit
Forged internals
TMIC with splitter (PW, GS or Mishimoto)
Radiator (Mishimoto X-line)
Map sensor 3 or 4 bar (dont know which one to buy but i guess they are all the same)
Cold air intake
BOV (GFB tms respons with recirc)
FPR (GFB there too)
Clutch with lightened flywheel(single disc thats easy on the foot and daily driving)
Silicone hoses


Maybe parts to fit or further down the road
lightweight pulley kit (GFB underdriven kit? worth it or wate of money?)
Paralell fuelrail kit
Electronic boost controller from GFB or any other brand.
Turbo (SC, LM or maybe a mambatek but that will come later)
Engine management link g4+

injectors and engine management I would add

dont want to start the debate but i'd go front mount over 400?

I have spent a few hours thinking about that.

I know that i should probably go FMIC but i want it to look stock and im not a fan of how it looks with piping that comes with the fmic.

:brickwall
forgot to put in injectors 700cc something maybe.

Engine managment im thinking about link g4+ but that will come with the turbo towards the summer.

Me too,400bhp would probably be the max that I would happily run a top mount but 500bhp+ a front mount intercooler would definitely be the way to go.SJ.

500 bhp daily driver? I wish I had a commute where that would make sense...

I suspect this is a Swedish car, which will not be possible to MOT if the car has fmic etc, so top mount is the only reasonably painless option for Jonas.

I personally would not bother with the pulley kit. It seems a lot of money for a teeny bit of rotational weight saving (on small radii too...) spend the extra on a lightweight flywheel instead (unless you've already got one).

also, I somewhat familiar with the situation regarding mappers in Sweden, but even so I think I would rather go for an alcatek or syvecs based on knowledge around these ecu's in the UK. Having said that, it's my opinion that a stand alone ecu might be a waste of money for a daily driver. The std ecu seems perfectly capable from what I gather, especially if you go e85 only (because longer injection times at idle...)
Another thing to consider is that AFAIK aftermarket ecus do not have obd2 interfaces, and isn't that part of the MOT check in Sweden now?

Also boost controller - waste of money IMO. Get the ecu to control boost, and use your right foot to modulate it. Why would you ever want to run less than 100% boost on full throttle? ;)